Flushing copper pipe work after soldering.

[dobbslc]

As the title really, I'm slowly installing new central heating and all other piping to my house but some of it won't be used for a good few months, is it worth flushing out the flux etc in the new pipes or would doing that and leaving a bit of water in the pipes be worse?
I was going to make some kind of pump set and tank affair to do this, what do you think?


Here's a sample of what I'm replacing....

 

[waddycall]

What kind of flux are you using?

 

[gaz1]

no point just seal the system and flush once everything is ready

dont forget that drain tap to fit nothing worse than having to drain from the boiler as idiot plumbers dont fit drain taps in right places

 

[daedalusminos]

You don't want to keep flushing out/drying pipes and no need. Use a flux paste sparingly concentrating most time on cleaning pipework. IMO don't use something like Baker's fluid

As gaz1 says, fit drains on lowest loops

 

[dobbslc]

I'll fit more drain off's air vents, and lever valve's than I know what to do with!
The flux is LA CO stuff, seems a well known brand.
Lead free solder as well.

 

[daedalusminos]

I use Laco....good stuff, but Yorkshire's rather than end feeds.

 

[gaz1]

best places

2 shut off valves near boiler if anything goes wrong with boiler, can be shut off and changed out without draining system
and drain off valves fitted to tees helps to drain down the boiler

other point is at lowest point teed off and fitted with a stop tap due to tee off it wont heat as much when it hits the stop tap but allows for fast drain off of the system compared to the drain off valves

other points to fit stop taps if you can is fit between the floors floor one can be shut off whilst floor 2 is running or visa versa as long as they have a drain tap fitted this can be done

all plumbers are different to what they fit though

 

[Seadog]

LACO is good, but still mildly corrosive. The biggest problem is over-fluxing use sparingly and only where you need it.

 

[hunter27]

I expect you already know this but when applying flux only put it on the male end not in the fitting as well, also no point flushing with cold water in my opinion best flushing hot with a cleaner eg = https://www.sentinelprotects.com/uk...-heating-systems/sentinel-x300-system-cleaner
Then add an inhibitor when happy.
I always blow through the pipes before joining the ends it's surprising how much saw dust and rubbish can get in when running under floors.

 

[dobbslc]

Thanks, the ones I've just done are for the shower so won't have any inhibitor in them anyway.
Another question, what's the best way to solder chrome radiator pipes? I don't want to use compression fittings if I can help it.

 

[brightspark]

Thanks, the ones I've just done are for the shower so won't have any inhibitor in them anyway.
Another question, what's the best way to solder chrome radiator pipes? I don't want to use compression fittings if I can help it.

strip the chrome off where u are soldering not really recommended

 

[Kayos]

Thanks, the ones I've just done are for the shower so won't have any inhibitor in them anyway.
Another question, what's the best way to solder chrome radiator pipes? I don't want to use compression fittings if I can help it.

Hot and cold will flush the flux out, La co is pretty wicked stuff, wipe a bit on some old copper, heat with your blowtorch and it will come up like new

Properly used compression is fine, no need for paste or ptfe, just tighten 1.5 turns after hand tight

 

[hunter27]

40 odd Years ago most of the gas fires we fitted were in 12mm chrome across the front of the hearth often with chrome endfeed elbows, we would use emery tape to clean off the chrome some bits being harder than others especially if it was on the end of a uncut length if the emery didn't do it we had to use a file lightly but we never had any trouble provided we removed all the chrome from the bit in the fitting. They dont chrome the inside of the fittings.

 

[julianf]

Hot and cold will flush the flux out, La co is pretty wicked stuff, wipe a bit on some old copper, heat with your blowtorch and it will come up like new

Properly used compression is fine, no need for paste or ptfe, just tighten 1.5 turns after hand tight

Would you say that's a sure fire method when using new fittings? If so, is it any different for brass or copper olives? And when one over the other (brass Vs copper)

I've never really liked compression fittings, but, if there's a solid 'works every time' method, I'd like to know it!

 

[gaz1]

as kayos quoted is best as to over tighten them they are nothing but trouble if you do

after doing what kayos stated and theres a weep just tighten a little more then wipe to check again

 

[daedalusminos]

I always prefer brass over copper olives - I find copper olives too soft and liable to distort. I agree though, don't overtighten and my pet hate is plumbers who use PTFE tape on threads where it simply is not required e.g. compression joints.

 

[dobbslc]

Well I've soldered them on now, I put the chrome pipes in the lathe and used emery cloth to take the chrome and copper plating off.

Seemed to take well enough....
This may be a stupid question but what is the "normal" side of a rad to have the flow on?

 

[Seadog]

It doesn't matter which side you feed. You can also use the top to feed and take the return from the opposite side bottom.

 

[waddycall]

Whichever’s easiest! Check the direction of flow on your trv’s though.

 

[brightspark]

most new tvr are not directional older ones are and if flow wrong makes the spring chatter when opening and closing