flue pipes

[chrisg3103]

Got myself a cabinet type workshsop heater thats runs on kerosene, thing is are there any alternaive flue pipes other than the £40/m things that are going about? anything wrong with using spiral ducting? dont care what it looks like. Flue temp is about 200 degrees according to manual

 

[Jim_gsxr1000]

can you stick some pics up ?

 

[julianthegypsy]

I use steel tubing, you can get 6 metres for the price of a few feet of vitreous!

 

[MrFluffy]

I made my own double wall isolated flue. Spiral stainless chimney liner, stainless sheet rolled into tube outside, filled the cavity with fireproof insulation designed to insulate fireplaces from the surrounding material bandsawed into strips and lockwired in place around the inner liner, with the outer sections fed on one by one and welded into one lump and hoiked it up in a single piece, which was the fun bit. The commercial ones come sealed into sections.
Its been up 5 years, stood a 120mph wind that blew a massive oak down, and had a machine run into it by accident denting it slightly, but its still working fine today. In fact house is toasty warm off the 60kw base burning furnace running the underfloor heating all attached to it.
Cue the people moaning about my insurance not covering me for a chimney fire. Except its external to the property which is why I built a insulated one in the first place.

 

[chrisg3103]

its one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAKAWAY-4...200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d14f11718 but the oil fired version, chimney liner, never even thought of that!
how about a chimney liner with insulation supported inside the spiral duct? apparently needs to be insulated to stop nastys condensing in the flue, would mean no joints to seal either
Steel tubing would be nice but cant seem to find a supply localy, still looking though, still clearing a hole for it in the workshop

 

[MrFluffy]

I cant see how that would work, since the stainless flexy liner keeps the really bad stuff away from the insulation and provides a suitable surface that isnt eaten away by combusion products.
Mine is on a wood burning stove which is a LOT harsher an environment than a gas flue. There is creaosotes forming, higher temps etc.
You need the insulation as its the heat rising inside that creates the draw, if thats not strong enough, it can fill the house with carbon monoxide by products. In fact even if you do insulate it, please do invest in at least a co2 monitor for the room.

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

Co2 monitor won't do anything. Just a CO monitor you need!

 

[DrNik]

You will need something with some decent wall thickness, I reckon the heat would melt the galvanised coating and then it would just rust out, you need stainless or thicker walled tube, don't forget the acidic of the gasses may also start to eat your chimney away, pop down you local scrapyard for a length of tube, I have a length here but your too far away......

 

[MattF]

You will need something with some decent wall thickness, I reckon the heat would melt the galvanised coating and then it would just rust out, you need stainless or thicker walled tube, don't forget the acidic of the gasses may also start to eat your chimney away

It's paraffin. Other than shedloads of moisture, there's going to be little else in the exhaust gasses.

Provided it can cope with the heat, use whatever you can get hold of readily. Easy enough to replace a section if it starts rusting out in a few years.

 

[DrNik]

If you got one of those cabinet heater, get one of those waste oil burners, I've made one but are on sale on ebay for about £500 and pay for themselves within a year, far far cheaper to run

 

[ben8vgte]

You can get the ridged spiral tube in stainless, that's they had on the gas burning powdercoat ovens where I used to work. If you need insulated you run that in the center then a larger spiral on the outside but for cost that could be galv, then infill with perlite stuff.

 

[chrisg3103]

some good ideas, had a brief look at making a waste oil burner but problem comes in having to clean the heat exchanger tubes every week rather than once a year. still could be worth it though.
didnt know you could get stainless spiral duct, shall look into that!

 

[DrNik]

If you have a rally clean burn (which I get) all you get is a dust in the bottom of the burner, Hoover it out once a year and done, the longer it runs for the cleaner it stays, and nearly free fuel

 

[normspanners]

If you have rally clean burn

Why is 'rally' oil cleaner --I know-- I know--- pot callin the ketil burnt (you cant say black now, can ya,? unless of course you are) bit like your avatar DN BTW thats a good avert for your clean burn!!!

 

[jabran200]

I was going to post something similar actually after getting my homeade oil heater ready.

I spoke to a local ducting place and they sold me normal spiral ducting and I enquired about the temp it can handle and he said 200 degrees is o.k but it will discolour. I have about 1 metre of 5mm pipe coming out of the tank itself and previous test I measured the flue getting to about 140 odd so I though should be fine. Mounted it all in and fired it up, got some nice heat coming in but as I just started to warm up the workshop the flue started to soften and bulge so I shut it off the flue got to roughly 80-100 degrees when I noticed problems.

My flue is 150mm and I need a about 5.5-6metres of it, maybe I will have to reduce my flue size? Anyone know of steel tube suppliers that do 150mm?

sorry for the thread hijack but I thought it would be usefull to have all the info in the same thread.