Floor-standing drill - mounting query

[Hopefuldave]

I've been looking on EvilBay again...

I'm hoping to get a fairly sturdy pillar drill (Ni!*), will need to bolt it down - as I'm in a rented place, I'm thinking I should turn some M12 / M16 threaded "inserts" a few inches long and epoxy them into the concrete garage floor, so I can leave it looking tidy if/when I move on - any better ideas, if not any recommendations for the epoxy?

Thanks,
Dave H. (the other one)

* A nice one, not too expensive...

 

[MattF]

Just make a wide base and bolt it to that. Make it from wood or steel. Whichever takes your fancy. It doesn't need to be bolted to the floor. Imagine it as akin to bolting it to a pallet.

 

[cheb]

I bolt mine on to offcuts of worktop. I recess the holes underneath and use coachbolts.

 

[Maker]

Just cut the studs off flush when you leave, no ones gonna scrutinise a garage floor and notice four metal circles that weren't there before.

 

[Agroshield]

Shield anchors. Drill hole a little deep so they end up slightly recessed. You will need a short length of tube to set them. When ready to leave, remove bolts (or threaded studs) and fill holes: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-shield-anchors-m8-x-70mm-5-pack/9650G

If you can find the ones diamond drillers use, they are removable entirely (but I am not sure if they have a metric thread on them).

Alternatively, drop-in anchors: https://www.toolstation.com/drop-in-anchor/p73106

To answer your original question, the two-chamber dispenser resin is expensive for four bolts as you need the applicstor gun as well.

Most of the resins are polyester, a similar chemical to car body filler. So that is a possibility but do a test first to confirm if strength is enough. Hole cleanliness is essential. Drill, hoover out, wire brush, hoover out again.

You could try things that look similar to these:

https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/...readed-socket-stainless-steel-rawl-pno-60-988

glued in with

https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/...emfix-epoxy-acrylate-capsule-rawl-pno.-60-428

 

[Brad93]

I’ve still got a couple of drills to get rid of.

Send me a pm and I’ll send some pictures

 

[Dcal]

Use thread-bar, make sure the thread-bar is clean and dress all cut ends so you can easily screw a nut on.
Glue them in with epoxy as normal.
When you are leaving put two nuts on the thread sticking out and unscrew them, no need to wax the threads or anything and it does work, I've used the technique for temporary fixings.

I use Buffalo epoxy, because it's good, cheap and I can get it locally.
It's as good as the big name stuff but hilti, fisher, rawlplug etc are all excellent.
Get one that you can use in a standard gun, which will rule out a lot, but no need to buy a special giun unless you are using lots.

Just read the link below, but it does take you to a page with 300mm epoxy.

https://anchorfixings.com/shop/fixings-anchors/chemical-resin/xpsf-styrene-free-polyester-410ml/

 

[Hitch]

Thunderbolts... unscrew when you move, and brush full of dust.

 

[grim_d]

No real need to bolt a pillar drill down. Mine isn't even on a flat surface.

 

[mtt.tr]

Thunderbolts... unscrew when you move, and brush full of dust.

Would be my suggestion

 

[mtt.tr]

No real need to bolt a pillar drill down. Mine isn't even on a flat surface.

Wait till you clamp a long bit of steel to the table

 

[Maker]

No real need to bolt a pillar drill down. Mine isn't even on a flat surface.

Good point, a decent drill should be heavy enough to stay in place.

 

[Hopefuldave]

Wait till you clamp a long bit of steel to the table

My 7 x 12 bandsaw appears pretty stable, until it tries to eat some Sturdy Channel - the lathe and mill at over 2 tons each are fairly solid though...

Dave H. (the other one)