FJ1200 pic heavy

[Splatterer]

Hi all, here is the centre stand off one of my FJ1200s. This one is the reference bike as it's got tax & MOT, but it needs a light coating of care to bring it up to spec. The other two are in need of much more fettling. So I'm fitting a centre stand off one of the basket cases.
Now the stand is pretty wobbly to say the least. So I'd like to know if it's possible to add some metal to the bolts and the stand holes to bring it back to a less wobbly spec.
This is the construction of the stand. will it bulge out when it heats up and crack when it cools?

he stand with oval holes, which would be better round.

This is the total of hole I'd like to fill in.

This is a bit of the stand which has worn against the spring, but needs a bit of metal adding in to take up a couple of mm.

These are the bolts, which have a number 6 on the end, so I'm assuming them to be HT. Is it possible to add some weld and then grind back.

 

[brightspark]

the million dollar question is do u have a lathe. if u have put the hex bolts in chuck turn a shaving off till there perfectly round .then make some sleeves for the stand and weld them in then drill to suit the bolts

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

I'd be happy to make some bushes up for you if required. Just weld them in square and assemble with a bit of grease and your laffin I dunno whether you can get a new siesta do as that one has started to delaminate and you don't want a 200kg+ bike landing on you!

 

[Robotstar5]

I'd go with bushing the stand and treating it to a couple of new bolts, a bit of grease will probably reduce future wear?.

 

[bc30se]

why not buy another stand? (a beautiful bike by the way)

 

[slimjim]

I have a powder coated stand to fit a early fj1200 in my garage, no bolts or springs though!

 

[Wallace]

Are the stands on the other two bikes in better condition?

 

[CompoSimmonite]

With my CX500C I made a new pivot pin that had a drilling through the middle and a grease nipple so it lubricated the bushes. Same could be done with any new FJ pivot bolts to help avoid the same damage happening again.

Paul H

 

[Splatterer]

Thanks for the replies.
Yes, it's the stand, spring and bolts off the spares bike, as the centre stand from the reference bike was off, had no fittings and been 'chamfered.'
Yes, got access to a lathe.
I think the stand is made of 2 folded pieces of steel one wrapped around the other hence wondering about 'hardfacing(?) as opposed to bushing. Don't think it's de-laminated very far at all.
With a bush, would that mean drilling out oversize holes? I haven't got access to anything that would drill the existing bush out easily.
Now daft question, for the holes, I was thinking of cleaning up the sides, clamping some copper either side and filling the gap up with Mig wire then filing it back to round.
And can you add metal to HT bolts?
Depending on what further advice comes, I might fancy a day out to Cumbria for a stand and be in contact for some bushes.
I like the idea of grease nipples, but the FJ requires regular fettling of it's nether regions anyway so I hope to be regular with the striping and greasing.

 

[Wallace]

Looking at the stand photo I would think the pivot end is made up of two tubes crimped flat to form the pivots and a hole punched through. The bush looks to have 3 tack welds round the outside of it's flange so you could probably grind those off and the bush would knock out and you could turn a new pair up to replace them. I would expect the flanged faces run against the frame brackets for alignment and the bushes would need to be concentric so a bar through their centre when tack welding would help.

 

[Windy Miller]

Looking at the stand photo I would think the pivot end is made up of two tubes crimped flat to form the pivots and a hole punched through. The bush looks to have 3 tack welds round the outside of it's flange so you could probably grind those off and the bush would knock out and you could turn a new pair up to replace them. I would expect the flanged faces run against the frame brackets for alignment and the bushes would need to be concentric so a bar through their centre when tack welding would help.

Yeah I would say that's the best way to do it.