First stab at alu tig , eeesh

[chip]

So my tig welding has never been great, but today I had my first crack at aluminium, I know it looks more liked stacked toenails, but it was fun and I definitely plan to get this nailed down over time.
I've only done what you see in the pictures so far things started to get better, but I couldn't do anything about the crater at each end.... downslope?
It would appear immediately after I lifted off the trigger.
I'd probably be better off getting a better smaller torch to, I do have a cheap foot pedal to try.
The machines just a cheap no name thing but I think good enough for me until I get to a standard.
I ran from 75–85 amps on this 1mm-1.5 mm material
settings were
sine wave
Pre flow 1 sec
Start amps 5
Upslope 0
Start amps 80
Frequency 100
Balance 35
Downslope 0
Post flow 3
I did give the material a wire brush and a wipe down with acetone but maybe not enough, looking at the black crud at the toes?
2.4 5356 filler wire
tungsten 2.4 grey
I will get back to it over the weekend, Be as brutal as you like, thanks.

 

[Wildefalcon]

If I could do that I'd be very happy.

 

[finyuk2005]

i dont see many spots where you dipped the tungsten! i know i did plenty of that to start with!!!

 

[Richiew]

That's good for novice welding on thin material. 6mm ally plate would be more flattering.
With Aluminium, I think it is all about heat control. It is very easy to melt through compared to steel.

 

[minimutly]

One of the big improvements I made was to change from that torch, it's just too stiff and unweildy. Experts say you don't need a pedal, and clever use of ramp up/down with the switch can help a lot, but I found a pedal a lot of help in getting the amps in the right ballpark.

 

[Barking Mat]

If I could do that I'd be very happy.

If my ally tig looked like that I too would be chuffed.

 

[tigdlo]

, but I couldn't do anything about the crater at each end.... downslope?

Another vote for getting a pedal and maybe a smaller torch. My TIG came with a torch the same style as yours, I replaced the handle and fitted small series consumables, much nicer than standard and cheaper than replacing the whole torch setup.

 

[chip]

Thanks all, I spend way too much time on Instagram I'm sure the wheels will fall off when I attempt joints, Yeah the torch is orrible I'm working on replacing that. I will give the pedal a try

 

[finyuk2005]

There is a trick you can do to control the heat when you dont have a pedal,
If you use 4T (latching trigger) most welders will have an upslope and a downslope that tapers the amps up and down, so if things are getting too hot you can hit the button to start the downslope, but then hit it again before the arc cuts off completely,
you can kinda keep the amps dancing with the up and down slopes if that makes sense!

 

[Misterg]

I couldn't do anything about the crater at each end.... downslope?

I can't see any suggestions for this above, so I'll throw in my 2p's worth as a hobby jockey, even it it is to provoke somebody into giving the right answer

I am no expert (probably not even competent), so take with a pinch of salt:

I add a couple of very quick dabs of filler right at the point that I release the trigger - I use a few seconds of down-slope as a matter of course, and also swirl the torch around a bit as the amps decay. Can't get rid of them every time, but I find it helps.

 

[addjunkie]

Thats far better than my early attempts….I went for a quality small torch, made a big difference for me.

 

[chip]

I can't see any suggestions for this above, so I'll throw in my 2p's worth as a hobby jockey, even it it is to provoke somebody into giving the right answer

I am no expert (probably not even competent), so take with a pinch of salt:

I add a couple of very quick dabs of filler right at the point that I release the trigger - I use a few seconds of down-slope as a matter of course, and also swirl the torch around a bit as the amps decay. Can't get rid of them every time, but I find it helps.

Thanks pal I will give that a try, how much frequency do you use?, I see its preferred between 80-220 some machines go as high as 400, but this machine maxes out at 100.

 

[carbon]

Definitely use downslope, add filler after releasing the button to filler the crater. Using downslope can also be a benefit if the weld pool gets to hot. Releasing the button will allow you to control the heat input without the need to stop welding, releasing the button welding current starts to drop with the downslope and the weld cools enough for you continue then press the button again to continue welding. A lot easier to do than my explanation, this can be used when a pedal isn’t convenient.

 

[Misterg]

how much frequency do you use?

Usually 80Hz, but I'm no expert.

 

[Rrobson]

100Hz is a fairly common starting point as it normally produces a weld bead that’s not too wide and sinks in well.

200Hz and above will produce a narrower bead which is built up more. Useful for edge build up or welding inside a tight vee.

50Hz was the only option on most transformer TIG sets, and as you’d expect it’ll give you a wider, flatter bead that sinks in well.

My jasic set doesn’t like running 50Hz on the thinner stuff, but it is normally set at 100Hz anyway. Try lower frequency and see what it feels like, your machine might prefer a lower setting

Balance setting at 35 is a good starting point, always advisable to play with this as more cleaning action can make your welds appearance better on less than perfect material.

 

[Cheesie]

You're of to a good start, don't worry about to much in the way of settings youre on the right path, just a few tweeks, get the feel of it keep at it, hood time is what perfects it, the problem with asking advice on an open forum is you'll get a lot of varying answers, just people trying to help I prefer white tungsten for alu zirconiated,