First bash off tig welding

[BrianCork]

hey lads, finally got around to properly setting the Tig side of my inverter today. It's a SIP (gasp) Weldmate p188. I'm a pretty confident arc welder and would be comfortable with mig too, but never had a go off tig before. Was using pure argon, set to roughly 10lpm. Was looking for advice about what I'm doing wrong. Material thickness was about 2mm mild steel plate, had the machine running around 55ish amps, no pulse being used here. First picture is the weld without filler. Second is with filler.
Not overly impressed with how the filler went down, seemed to sit on top more than anything else. Anyway, any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[Richard.]

Surely as your first time with Tig you didn't expect to get it absolutely crack on. It's an art that takes a long time to master that's all that's gone wrong.
Regards your settings turn the gas down a bit. 6-8 LPM is plenty.
Turn your current up to 60/70 amps which will help take your excessive cap height down.
1.6 tungsten, 1.2-1.6 filler rod a15 grade. But you really just need to practice. Short arc, consistent filling intervals, approx 5mm of tungsten protruding a no6,7,8 cup. 10 degrees pushing angle and keep the filler in the leading edge of the pool. When your not dipping fill in keep the hot end of the rod in the gas coverage to prevent oxides attacking it.

 

[BrianCork]

Cheers Richard, really appreciate that. Thought maybe I was a bit high on the gas but wasn't sure so played it safe and left it alone at 10. Don't worry, I wasn't expecting to run a beautiful even bead at all, just hoping with a bit more practice I can make some slightly more aesthetically pleasing welds! Thanks for the advice though, t is much appreciated

 

[norlander]

Like you, I learned MMA and OxyA as my first processes, then MIG, you can carry some aspects from MMA to MIG, but IMHO TIG is pretty much a seperate discipline, and I don't think that thinking of TIG as similar to Oxy A helps either.
I note you said aesthetically pleasing welds.
As an MMA welder, you know we all like to lay down "peelers" but not at the expense of a sound weld, so I would say don't chase the youtube "stack of dimes' thing, as a stick man you know when its going in well root and toes, I make sure of that when I TIG summat .
Getting the angle right to progress the pool can be tricky, as can getting the pool established, you tend to up the amps and then get undercut.
Tight arc can be misleading, when you add filler, the pool height can grow and you can touch in-so you may have to back up and lenghten the arc a tad.
One aspect that is shared between TIG and Stick is that when you are having a crap day -its a crap day- but with stick you usually nail the problem fairly soon, TIG can see you wanting to launch the torch .
But if it was easy it would not be satisfying.
Play with tungsten sizes and filler sizes to see what suits you and your kit, and, make sure you are comfortable and dry run the joint to make sure you dont hang up on something.
Good Luck.

 

[BrianCork]

I was much the same as you alright norlander, started out with mma before learning about oxyA, and when funds arose I bought a mig. Normally most of my work would be in my own workshop at home, but as a few people were asking for things done in their own places I decided to get an inverter as hauling my Oxford oil cooled one was a non runner. Saw then that you get get a fairly decent tig base machine included so decided to take the plunge. No intentions of giving up yet anyway, far too stubborn for that! I understand what you mean about not being hung up on the appearance of the weld alright, but for what I plan with the tig at the minute won't be anything structural, merely a bit of tinkering! Thanks for the reply too!

 

[Richard.]

You'll find 90% of the time a tig welds appearance is a good way to judge its soundness.
Aim for a nice uniform run I say because tig doesn't hide its flaws well.
Mig is a sod for hiding it's flaws and what can appear to be a nice run on the surface could be no good to hang your coat. I'm a firm believer that with tig if it doesn't look great it's not great.

 

[norlander]

you might find this useful Brian.

Another point I keep forgetting is that the pool/puddle melts the filler at the leading edge really, coming from other processes can make you want to shove the filler too far in-I get too fixated on getting the root fused, and I lock up my arm and travel gets jerky , note the masters smoooth travel, and his cadence of adding filler, another twenty years and I'll be there.
The really annoying thing is I'd like to be able to say "Yeah-pretty welds at the bench boy, but bet ya caint run a decent root pen and toes bead vertical up standing on a wobbly trestle 60' up at one amp setting for all positions"
But he can- and with TIG
Bit like them Irish Road Racers, gimme the same bike, same weather, etc, and I still would not ever go round anywhere near their time. But you can raise your game a lil bit if you keep trying.

 

[BrianCork]

Fully understand what you're saying about the urge to shove in the filler towards the tip, did that the minute i stared and quickly realised my mistake as i was left with a big ball of filler! Have watched a few of his videos alright and hes gifted. I suppose theres no other way around it than practice, and obviously being at it every day is a huge advantage rather than using it every few weeks like il be doing, but as you say 20 years down the road we'd be hoping things have improved vastly!
Used it again last night actually to tighten up a clutch cam on a suzuki busa engine that was well worn, there was play in the 3 fingers in its housing from years of autograss abuse. Didnt get any pics as it was a spur of the moment decision during reassembly, but just by listening to everyones advice above i got a much deeper looking bead and a cleaner looking joint, so needless to say i was happy out!
Still a long road to go and no doubt il be back with a million more questions, but progress is progress, no matter how big or small!

 

[BrianCork]

Small update, decided today as I had time to just dive into a project, making a bbq out of an old keg. Really happy with my progress. Most welds turned out fine, they aren't a beautiful stack of dimes, but for what they're doing I'm happy. First pic I had the amps a bit high, second I think is more how it should be, just a more uniform bead!

 

[Richard.]

Small update, decided today as I had time to just dive into a project, making a bbq out of an old keg. Really happy with my progress. Most welds turned out fine, they aren't a beautiful stack of dimes, but for what they're doing I'm happy. First pic I had the amps a bit high, second I think is more how it should be, just a more uniform bead!

It's nice to see your cleaning your metal properly. The welding looks good mate.

 

[norlander]

Yeah, they should be sound enuf Brian, thats stainless I guess?? -quite a good test on differing materials- bar and sheet of the keg. Thats what my DC welds on stainless and M/s look like.
I often get undercut because I only have pedal, and a tad of lead foot can jump too much juice in, see how low on the amps you can get away with on stainless, if you can get your speed up and or your amps down can get the rainbow colours.
Like I said, don't get too focused on the stack of dimes,its good to aim for and good practice as long as you don't lose sight of getting a sound weld-I always have some words ringing in me ears from me stick days
"them welds look good" "so they do-but they is still gettin x rayed to find out"
Nice going, I'm with you on pitching into some projects, you are probly same school as me, not much practice time allowed, demonstration and pitched into low key projects

 

[BrianCork]

Finally got around to finishing off the barbecue and said it'd be rude not to throw up some pics. Got a good bit more comfortable using it, tight spots inside the keg were definitely a challenge! I know it's not beautiful welding, but considering it's my first time using it to fabricate something I'm pretty happy!