EZ weld tig rods

[TechnicAl]

I asked SIF about No8 about 5 years ago, and the person I spoke to seemed competent technically? I have repaired plenty of exhaust manifolds with No8, and no comebacks so i guess it should be ok for stove?

All the SIF technical people had gone by then. Some of their more recent technical bulletins have been, shall we say, unusual. One gave the amps needed for a gas rod.

No8 melts at around 900 oC........not sure what temp a manifold gets to. I guess its less than that.

 

[Richard.]

One gave the amps needed for a gas rod

Wow that is a classic

 

[Chris Stevens]

All the SIF technical people had gone by then. Some of their more recent technical bulletins have been, shall we say, unusual. One gave the amps needed for a gas rod.

No8 melts at around 900 oC........not sure what temp a manifold gets to. I guess its less than that.

Ok................the one I spoke to seemed to know his stuff though, and never had a single problem with exhaust manifolds repaired with No8. But I guess if you say MMA with Ni rod is more suitable for stove repair, then thats the way to go with it.

 

[hotrodder]

Even before weldability bought them SIF loved the odd typo/ bit of mis infomation... i've got a consumables catalogue that predates the buy out and contains a tips page, the oxy fuel tips are spot on accurate but it recommends Ar + 20% CO2 for MIG brazing and DCEP for TIG brazing along with saying thoriated tungsten is fine with AC but not for welding aluminium. They're still recommending DCEP with a thoriated tungsten for TIG by the looks of things but are now recommending pure Ar or Ar + 2% CO2 for MIG brazing.

Car suspension doesn't have much in common with a cracked CI stove. Phosphor bronze doesn't seem like a great idea for the former unless relativley massive fillets are used? It's properties are a chunk lower than the 9% nickel bronze (SIFbronze #2) which was commonly used for making motorcycle frames and the like. Lower than 'regular' SIFbronze #1 IIRC too? Definately doesn't flow/wet as nicely as the oxy fuel brazing wires... might be me but whenever i've experimented with TIG brazing as a substitute for bronze welding/fillet brazing i've always been disappointed when testing/destroying the joints. Speed might be part of the reason why but i suspect the lack of capillary action might be the main reason why people like Atom stick their chassis together with oxyfuel, SIF #101 (#1 with a little manganese tin to improve properties and wetting) and a gas fluxer instead of TIG?

Strange isnt it
I bet they think they are all the same so they have copied someone elses. It happens. I saw a far eastern one that was obviously the results of a very different material, all they did was change the name / title.

Good point, someone elses msds makes as much sense as anything on that webpage

 

[Mick Aumer]

Interesting post hotrodder thanks. As I'm not familiar with oxyfuel last used it at school I think I am going to find some sifbronze No8
and give that a bash. Originally was just going to cement it up to see this winter out but i'ts such a pretty enameled stove it would be sad to write it off after 21 years.

 

[langy]

Maybe so, but according to SIF strong enough for race car suspension parts, so probably ok for repairing a vintage stove?

Years ago all race cars chassis & suspension was brazed

 

[zeppelin builder]

to weld 90 year old casting prepare the cracks first then build a temporary forge an old barbie might do bury it in charcoal and open the area when it is a uniform 900c dull red you can use the old oxy acetylene method with cast iron rods and flux [SIF] or stick weld it with 7018 cover it up and let it cool in the fire embers i gas welded a bently cyl head added repair section made out a bit of an old bath worked a treat all the gasket faces can be coated with graphite powder and oil or you can use the white chalky spray developer from die pen kits to prevent scaling on machined areas
its the differential expansion contraction that cracks it if the whole job is hot the weld is stress relieved automaticly done a few exhaust manifolds by heating up with prop ane torches in the ports getting it red hot stick welded wi 7018 remote in one hand varying current its obviously a lot lower than normal give it a good post weld roasting wrap it up in fire blanket and let it cool worked when nickel iron wouldnt even take to the parent metal have had varying results with pure nickel and nickel iron IMO tig is the worst process for old porous oily castings simply boils out all the crap and one pore expands into another 50

 

[Richard.]

pure nickel and nickel iron IMO tig is the worst process for old porous oily castings simply boils out all the crap and one pore expands into another 50

I've repaired lots of it with GTAW nickel/iron filler with very high success rates. Its a good process if done properly with care. It's not always practical to everyone for a 900C home made furnace and I certainly wouldn't go at it with a low hi electrode cold.

 

[zeppelin builder]

i wouldnt weld it cold wi 7018 either it would be red hot
strewth EZEE WELD if only it was that easy. perhaps american cast iron is different its usualy stuff called JBweld in a tube them guys use