Estate rail

[wyn]

A few estate railings i have made have been plasma cut for 25x5 flat to run through.

I had to start with a drilled pilot hole then a little jig to run the torch around in....the uprights were 50x10.

 

[Kent]

A few estate railings i have made have been plasma cut for 25x5 flat to run through.

I had to start with a drilled pilot hole then a little jig to run the torch around in....the uprights were 50x10.

Yeah, but did you run flat on the top bar? or chain? Or round bar? I cant see it being flat at that point surely?

 

[wyn]

20mm round at the top...from what i remember the same pilot was used for all then through with something around 22mm for the top round bar.

 

[Kent]

I am busy thinking about the cost differences in doing all that and just shipping them out to CNC plasma from plate

 

[wyn]

It is a load of hassle if you have a hundred or so to do.


The next time i have to make some..... i now know someone with a metalworker (Kingsland/Geka type thing) and will punch them out.

 

[Kent]

Yeah your right there very "boring"

 

[droopsnoot]

Yeah Thing is though are they time / cost effective? I think I will have to see if I can get one the right size of steps as I could just adjust the depth stop and crack on. But how the heck do you sharpen one

I've been using a step drill to make some of the bigger holes in my car restoration, mainly on 18g plate. It's OK, but there's a lot of vibration while cutting. And I've dulled the 10mm step, so now I have to drill a pilot hole, then out to 11mm, then use the step drill for bigger holes. It's only a cheapy Aldi bench drill, though, so maybe something with a bit more weight might not vibrate so much.

I'd always taken "Cheshire Rails" to be curved backwards at the top - there's a few properties around here that still have them against the road, and they seem to be that shape, kind of an inverted J-shape to the posts.

 

[Kent]

I've been using a step drill to make some of the bigger holes in my car restoration, mainly on 18g plate. It's OK, but there's a lot of vibration while cutting. And I've dulled the 10mm step, so now I have to drill a pilot hole, then out to 11mm, then use the step drill for bigger holes. It's only a cheapy Aldi bench drill, though, so maybe something with a bit more weight might not vibrate so much.

I'd always taken "Cheshire Rails" to be curved backwards at the top - there's a few properties around here that still have them against the road, and they seem to be that shape, kind of an inverted J-shape to the posts.

again common elsewhere in the country but not by that name. normally 7 bar. see them curve in and out which is strange because you might think they should always curve to the stock? though this might not look right in some installations perhaps