Elu MOF96 router - need a capacitor

[Newlands]

It looks to me like this capacitor is about to show me its insides. Can't seem to find one on any of the spare parts websites or eBay, so I'm wondering what I can replace it with.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think it can be an electrolytic because its AC not DC, also it has more than two wires coming out of it (didn't dare disturb it too much so I couldn't see properly, but it looks like four, maybe more??). Maybe one pair across the brushes and another across the field coil? But the marking suggest three capacitors in the one package 1 x 15 nF and 2 x 2.5 nF.
1. I'd like to replace like for like if possible - has anyone got a spare I can buy?
2. If I can't get an exact replacement, what can I buy instead, ie type and value?
3. Need an expert to decipher the markings so I know whether it's just one capacitor or whether the wrapper contains 2 or even 3.

 

[Seadog]

It's a noise suppression capacitor, in fact probably a triple (x&y).

 

[Guineafowl]

Just crossed with him above^^

It’s a package of a 150nF X1 cap across the mains, and two 2.5 nF Y-class ones from L and N to earth.

You could just cut it out and run without, if desperate.

 

[Seadog]

The Elu is also the same beast as Trend and Dewalt. So you may be able to find a spare through that route.

 

[Seadog]

This ought to do the job if physically the same size.

AD Safety capacitor X2 Y2 300VAC (0.22uF X2)+ 2x (2200pF Y2) MXY–ref:792 | eBay UK

AD MXY type -X2Y2, 0.22uF X2 K, +2X2200pF Y2M, 300vAC. Safety capacitor X2 Y2 300vAC (0.22uF group2 X2 K) + 2x (2200pF group 2 Y2M). Suppressor used frequently in power tools, etc. A High Quality Capacitor.

ebay.us

 

[Guineafowl]

You could roll your own like this:

 

[Newlands]

It's a noise suppression capacitor, in fact probably a triple (x&y).

What does the X and Y mean?

You could roll your own like this:

If I do this, would I need metallised pp film capacitors? I'm wondering if the original one was some sort of paper film

You could just cut it out and run without, if desperate.

Its Sunday tomorrow, so I can see that happening..

 

[Seadog]

The X and Y denote the position of them in relation to phase, neutral an earth. The X2 goes between phase and neutral, the Y2s link and neutral to earth. They are electrically dissimilar in that the X2 will typically fail as a short circuit to trigger the circuit protection device (MCB, RCD), whereas the Y2 will fail open circuit.

 

[jo1010]

These days manufacturers don't bother with the third leg for emi shielding, but if you have problems finding a cap with matched values just match the Y values with a 2 lead cap you'll be fine. (The third lead is just a ground going to the motor frame)

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

SOLENT TOOLS | POWER TOOLS GARDEN MACHINERY SPARE PARTS

Power Tools And Garden Machinery Spare Parts And Accessories | Major Brands Including: Performance Power. Erbauer. Titan. Macallister. Nutool. Bosch. DeWalt.

solenttools.co.uk

Order one from here.

 

[Newlands]

Thanks for the replies and explanations everyone. I’ve ordered the eBay one suggested by @Seadog, and now I know that the X2 typically fails short circuit I’ve decided to hold on until it arrives!
I think this router must be about 40 years old now - I remember replacing the top bearing a long time ago, but apart from that it’s been a brilliant little tool. I’ve got a similar size Festool router, but it’s nowhere near as convenient to use as this one despite costing a whole lot more!

SOLENT TOOLS | POWER TOOLS GARDEN MACHINERY SPARE PARTS

Power Tools And Garden Machinery Spare Parts And Accessories | Major Brands Including: Performance Power. Erbauer. Titan. Macallister. Nutool. Bosch. DeWalt.

solenttools.co.uk

Order one from here.

I couldn’t find one on their site, but they do brushes, so I’ve got a set of those on the way. Thanks for the link.

 

[Newlands]

It lives again! Thanks to everyone - this forum never disappoints.
I bought the capacitor that @Seadog linked to, plus a set of brushes, and fitted them this afternoon, using @Guineafowl 's schematic. Much better, and no weird popping sounds any more. The old capacitor gave good X readings but the Y reading was way off what the label said. And a very sticky residue leaking from the bottom of it where the wires enter. Just for entertainment I did some unravelling:

 

[Seadog]

They always fail in the long run.

 

[Guineafowl]

Cheers for the update. At least it didn’t smoke and stink like the dreaded RIFA capacitors