Yes, a simple block of bronze with a hole to sit on the pin.
Early start in the morning so fingers crossed, I will have a go at welding it first see how that goes if Im not happy with it I will probably have a go at making one, its not a fast running machine so there are possibilities. On a positive note I always learn more about the machine when something breaks.
Which bit have you broken
Cheers Milkybars number 4 Rocking Arm
Anyway of pinning the joints together and then brazing maybe ? Silicon bronze tig it ?
I have an earlier version of that machine, pretty well identical works inside.
The rocking arm is cast iron.
I had the top link break on mine.
Out of interest before preparing it for welding I would carefully inspect the break to check for signs of it being cracked for a long time before breaking (the break in mine was an old crack) which could mean it's had a crash in the past.
Also before reassembly run the machine in both gears and turn it by hand to listen for any bent or broken teeth that may need attention.
I would re-fabricate that from steel I think. If it breaks again it could smash stuff up in the cabinet.
Hi all a quick update while having a bite to eat I made a good start on this repair I have welded it but not happy with so chopped off a pallet fork I salvage from the scrappy, I thought it might come in handy, They are b****y heavy any way I got the basic shape milled the Kearny is brill can take 6mm in one swipe, and I reckon it could take more but don't like pushing the old machine to the limit, ha ha says he that's broke the shaper. That's it till later cant stay long as wont to get back to it so let the photo do the talking hopefully have it back working tonight fingers crossed will update later.
Looks like a good start. What steel are forks made from ? Bet @pressbrake1 knows.
Ive seen a shaper that had a smash up and it punched up the ram through the top
Hi all long day not fiscal just mentally draining. The new rocker arm is in and working the most important part of the job was to make sure the opening for the slider part was perfectly snug. The slider part (Top Die) is some sort of hard metal not bronze I gave it the file test and it didn't mark it. After a bit of trial and error winding it over by hand, I did have to take an extra 10 mm off the new one to clear the front of casing on the full stroke. As you can see it is more stronger than the original. There are a couple or things to do tomorrow time permitting, that's remove the sharp edges and I have got to do the stroke indicator markings. I even managed to get some new knobs on the levers when the mill was running. I actually think it runs a little quieter than before. You will have to excuse the photo quality my camera decided to pack up, and they were taken on an old tablet with no internet so then Ive had to take a photo from that.
I only manage to burn out 1 slot cutter and shatter another. And one other thing I have done away with the misting coolant and gone back to the original flooding coolant mist coolant aint good in a confined area.
All in all shaper is working well and I have gained some more experience
Tough to machine ?
Beautiful job. As you say, stronger than the original, it should stand a direct nuclear strike
Me being me I did have some forks checked, closest match was en19 in a heat treated condition.
I reckon some are made from odd knob bob
Be careful Jordan, you have now lost the overload fuse, as I said Ive seen a shaper behead itself.
Kearney and muncher!
Told you they could chomp!
Excellent days work, should outlast everything else!
This is what happened to my top link, looks like it had been on the way for a while.
My repair, the bolt goes down into the old tread as well.
The gears were noisier afterwards, they've settled down now though.
Nice I will keep an eye on mine
Yeh you were right and to think I was disappointed when father got it for me
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