elliot progress No1 drill table angle adjustment ?

[phill d]

hi guys
does anyone know how far the drill table on the progress no 1 can turn ?
for example can it be turned so the face of the table is vertical instead of horizontal ?
vertical would be ideal for me at the moment.

I know there is a large nut under the table, but it was not until today that I read the table can be
tilted etc and has a hole for an alignment pin !!!

so if anyone knows just how far this table can move would be good.
my table is the 13 inch square one, not the smaller one with the grooves along the sides.

phill

 

[mechman]

Try it

 

[Digger6135]

I have a Progress 2G geared head drill, the table can be swiveled to any angle you desire, the dowel pin is just for alignment back to truly horizontal, they are a very sturdy drill, the table is rather heavy to move up and down the column, it could do with a rack and pinion to assist.

Digger6135

 

[phill d]

Thanks digger,
I must agree the table is a pretty heavy lump of metal, and the table clamp/bracket on the pillar is real over kill.
tomorrow I hope to get chance to get at my drill to see under the table. I do recall a large nut under there but was not sure if the table had a
limit to the angle like say 45 deg.

I find when I release the handle at the back of the table then slowly swivel the table left and right while pulling it up it seems to raise easier than
just trying to lift it straight up.
But it seriously cry's out for rack and pinion to raise and lower it. the distance from the base to top of table when at lowest is crazy, it about 9 inches !!!

with a bit of luck tomorrow I can get to my drill and turn the table to the vertical position, this will help me big time with my drilling project.


phill

 

[Digger6135]

Thanks digger,
I must agree the table is a pretty heavy lump of metal, and the table clamp/bracket on the pillar is real over kill.
tomorrow I hope to get chance to get at my drill to see under the table. I do recall a large nut under there but was not sure if the table had a
limit to the angle like say 45 deg.

I find when I release the handle at the back of the table then slowly swivel the table left and right while pulling it up it seems to raise easier than
just trying to lift it straight up.
But it seriously cry's out for rack and pinion to raise and lower it. the distance from the base to top of table when at lowest is crazy, it about 9 inches !!!

with a bit of luck tomorrow I can get to my drill and turn the table to the vertical position, this will help me big time with my drilling project.


phill

You can improve the daylight between the drill chuck and the table by moving the head up the column, I do this with the use of a bottle jack, just insert the jack, on the table supporting the head ,then loosen the fixings that clamp the head, jack up then retighten.
If you have any particularly heavy drilling to do, a jack can be placed under the table to support any flexing of the table.

Digger6135

 

[phill d]

I have moved the head unit up and down a few times just messing around with things, ive only had this since the weekend and been cleaning it
up and putting a few things right. like putting on 2 new grease nipples, finding I have to get a new or good used pulley wheel for the motor due to
bottom groove worn out and broken. also cleaning up the quill shaft of old grease and washing out the 2 front bearings and re-packing with fresh grease etc.
so I have found most bits and pieces of the drill, just never had a good look under the table. have not been able to get the chuck out yet though.
I will look in the deepest darkest corner of my garage and see if I still have a small bottle jack to keep by the drill ha ha .

phill

 

[scott0031]

You do not need a bottle jack the tools are to the job are included with the drill!. Wind the chuck so the jaws are not protruding from the chuck body. Move the table to an appropriate position. Find a suitable sized lump of wood 2 x 2 is ample place on the table under the chuck. Wind the quill down so there is light pressure on the wood, lock off firmly with the quill lock (make sure quill lock is working) Undo the clamp bolt, half to one turn is all that needed, get a mallet or a suitable drift and give a sharp tap on the bolt head ( if required) this will release the split clamp. Take the pressure on the quill, undo quill clamp use the quill to wind drill head up or down as you need lock off the clamp and tighten clamp bolt. Be warned ensure the clamp for the the pillar is still in full contact with the pillar and not half off this can be seen clearly from the top of the drill. Always have pressure on the quill when you undo the quill lock after moving the head.

This is the tradesmans way way to move the head.



Kind regards,



Scott

 

[phill d]

ive been doing that to lift the head unit up and down, did not bother with a quil lock. (plus that bit is missing on mine)
1 undo little tool tray clamp just enough so it moves freely.
2 wind down the fully open chuck onto wood that's on table and hold slight pressure on chuck.
3 open the head locking nut and just wind up the head, pull up the little tool tray and lock into place then lock the head unit and
release pressure on the chuck.

why would you use the quil lock ?
I cant see any reason at all to use that. the tool tray is meant to hold the weight of the head, it actually tells you that in manual of drill.

I did not mention about using the chuck to lift head as expected people to scream NO NO NO ha ha .

But the tiny bottle jack is for the heavy bit THE TABLE.


phill

 

[scott0031]

Good if you know that method to move the head....... reason I give the method with proper procedure is because this is a public forum and anyone can read it. Anyone new to this method could go and use it and promptly drop the head on the table if they don't have the savvy to work out you need to hold the quill handle to stop the head dropping at a rate of knots, potentially hurting themselves not to mention the drill. Safety first!

Why use the quill lock? ermmmmmm self explanatory really its there to help you. You will work it out when you start to use the drill. Well.... if you had a quill lock that is!

The tool tray can take the weight yes but its not the method to secure the head lol. I don't care what it says in the book to be honest, if you used that tray in any workshop to secure the head alone you would be in for a rollocking. The scenario is Bert comes along oh i want to move the head, undoes the tray so the head can be moved down the whole lot smacks on the table probably breaking it, trapping Berts his arm and breaking that too. The clue is in the name ' tool tray', sort of gives it away So please do not entertain not using the head clamp for your own safety. It would be very bad and dangerous practice.

Its perfectly ok to to use the chuck on a lump of wood as long as its done correctly and the jaws are not protruding so they take load.

Digger was referring to the bottle jack to move the head up or down. You really dont need it to move the table lol. make sure the column is clean old sticky dried grease adn rush free free, greased and the jobs a goodun.

A hint. Never try to lift the table up in a vertical move directly. Release the clamp while taking the load on your arm, then wiggle the table left and right with upward pressure. I'm hardy a giant of a human, in fact I'm so small i hardly exist! So if i can do it................... So can you probably.


Kind regards,


Scott

 

[rtbcomp]

Using the tray to secure the head would mean the head could rotate, always secure the head with its own clamp.

I use a scissors jack to lift the table, it retracts lower than a bottle jack. I turn the jack screw by hand (no tommy bar &c) so as not to force the table if it binds.

EDIT - and apply the jack as close as possible to the column.

 

[jordan1]

hi guys
does anyone know how far the drill table on the progress no 1 can turn ?
for example can it be turned so the face of the table is vertical instead of horizontal ?
vertical would be ideal for me at the moment.

I know there is a large nut under the table, but it was not until today that I read the table can be
tilted etc and has a hole for an alignment pin !!!

so if anyone knows just how far this table can move would be good.
my table is the 13 inch square one, not the smaller one with the grooves along the sides.

phill

If it is anything like my Fobco it will tilt to vertical, as has been said, the location pin is there to set back to horizontal.

 

[500e]

On one of ours we put a pulley on rear of head fixed Bowden cable to table over pulley to large weight as counter balance, we needed this as we have a Large drill vice that you would not want to lift as well as the table.
Slides with one hand

 

[Digger6135]

You do not need a bottle jack the tools are to the job are included with the drill!. Wind the chuck so the jaws are not protruding from the chuck body. Move the table to an appropriate position. Find a suitable sized lump of wood 2 x 2 is ample place on the table under the chuck. Wind the quill down so there is light pressure on the wood, lock off firmly with the quill lock (make sure quill lock is working) Undo the clamp bolt, half to one turn is all that needed, get a mallet or a suitable drift and give a sharp tap on the bolt head ( if required) this will release the split clamp. Take the pressure on the quill, undo quill clamp use the quill to wind drill head up or down as you need lock off the clamp and tighten clamp bolt. Be warned ensure the clamp for the the pillar is still in full contact with the pillar and not half off this can be seen clearly from the top of the drill. Always have pressure on the quill when you undo the quill lock after moving the head.

This is the tradesmans way way to move the head.



Kind regards,



Scott

You are quite correct, I have used that method in the past, but for some reason could not recall it.

Digger6135

 

[phill d]

I understand about not using just the tool tray for safety etc, but for lowering the head unit the tool tray comes in very handy.
you put tool tray under the head and lock it. then undo the head unit bolt ( the original is a bolt head ) now the head can swivel.
while holding head unit up by the pressure of the chuck that has been wound down to take the weight of the head, you undo tool tray and simply lower it down to where you want.

Now if like some people you have not got the simple bolt head to lock the head and have made a nice bent arm for a handle to tighten head etc,
the tool tray now becomes redundant for lifting or lowering..
I always lock the head bolt to make sure it cant drop or swivel once lined up. my drill head unit does lift up and down nice and easy ( although heavy)

if fobco table goes vertical then I presume progress would do the same, especially being built by the same people f o'brian .
I bet he put a few extra bits on his own fobco model that the progress did not have. I was looking at fobco drill's when this bargain came up, I like the fobco's .
nothing near to me that was 240 volt, and most drills advertised were either too far away or too rusty for me.
I think the smaller fobco would suit a lot more hobby people like myself, where real machinist probably prefer the bigger stuff. like progress 2 and pacera etc.

I didn't get chance to get to my drill today, an emergency came up, but tomorrow I will go down and try to move the table to vertical.
Could be wrong but i don't think that nut will of been touched since new so this might take a bit of oomph to get moving. don't know if there is a locking pin on mine or not.
is this a spring loaded type thing ? or a simple removable pin ?

phill

 

[phill d]

why is there a quill lock ? I cannot see a purpose for it.

phill

 

[rtbcomp]

The quill lock can be used in conjunction with an x-y table for light milling.

 

[phill d]

ahh for milling. that's something I don't think I will be doing with this drill.

I did have a look at the table and found it can swivel as much as you want and will be perfect for my drilling of a prop.
The nut was a bit on the tight side, but a 3 ft breaker bar made it give up and loosen, then it was simply a turn it and see it go vertical. that's was a big bonus for
me as I did not know it could go all the way to vertical, I was thinking of around 45 degree to be honest.

and I did see the pin hole for alignment. that will be a big help when putting it back to normal position.