MattF
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Exact same thing I've used.
- Thread starter MattF
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Exact same thing I've used.
MattF
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1.5mm solid is what's being used on that one. As you say, great for suspending things. Can handle a surprising amount of weight.
Seadog
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This was a decent WWII bit for a brace. Left for a few weeks. It certainly did a good job of removing what I assume is case hardening.In my experience of both methods, electrolysis is gentler on the piece, (if done subtly), & I've never had problems with it affecting the surface appearance.
Citric, even though it supposedly doesn't touch good metal, does occasionally, (in my experience. Others experience & opinions may differ), etch/alter surface appearance.
Hence why my personal preference is the former. I always achieve the result I expect.
Plus, there are other points such as you could leave the part in the vat for weeks on end, without issues. I'm sure I'm not the only one on here who has forgotten they'd left a part in citric acid, & found a crusty mess, several weeks later.
MattF
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This went in a day or so ago. PSU was switched off last night, so I wasn't leaving it unattended, & this was simply left in there. Rust'll only start to form when it dries. Left in the solution it's safe.
A scrub with a relatively soft wire brush, & the more tenacious, now softened paint, scraped off with my knife edge.
It's going to go back in just for a final short session now all the paint's off, but it's technically already finished.
It's currently sat in a bucket of water, until I put it back in the vat, to prevent flash rust.
A scrub with a relatively soft wire brush, & the more tenacious, now softened paint, scraped off with my knife edge.
It's going to go back in just for a final short session now all the paint's off, but it's technically already finished.
It's currently sat in a bucket of water, until I put it back in the vat, to prevent flash rust.
MattF
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That illustrates why I personally prefer electrolysis. You know full well that the machined surfaces will look exactly as they ought when it's done. No risk of etching, pitting, (unless rust had pitted the surface), or suchlike, & all it needs is rinsing in water & drying, & it's done, ready for whatever finish it's due to receive.
After electrolysis If you put it in hot citric for a minute or 2, take it out, rinse in hot water then straight into a tub of wd40 until it cools, take out, leave overnight then dry off the rest of the wd40.
It leaves a finish similar to black oxide that is fairly durable. Works well on tools.
It leaves a finish similar to black oxide that is fairly durable. Works well on tools.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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If you dry the black oxide with a hot air gun or Blow torch it does rthe same, no need for ££££ WD 40.
Or polish with bee's wax.
Or polish with bee's wax.
Some folk use caustic soda instead but it will not help with rust removal, it's the flow of electricity that does that.
But it does mean that you are working with a dangerous chemical and not easy to dispose of.
MattF
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That tends to be my preferred finish, these days. A beeswax & graphite powder mix. Easy to apply & touch-up if/when necessary.
MattF
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I did use that in the vat I had at the old place, at one point. Never made much/any difference to just using sodium carbonate. Concentration was never strong enough, for safety reasons, to improve paint removal.
MattF
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These are handy things for scrubbing.
Cheap, readily available & effective. Nylon kitchen scourers.
Picked up a pack of eight from Poundland. For what they cost, soon as they're worn/soft, bin & use a new one.
Cotton buds are another handy item. Good for cleaning out, & drying, screw & bolt holes, & suchlike.
Cheap, readily available & effective. Nylon kitchen scourers.
Picked up a pack of eight from Poundland. For what they cost, soon as they're worn/soft, bin & use a new one.
Cotton buds are another handy item. Good for cleaning out, & drying, screw & bolt holes, & suchlike.
Local welding supplier calls it viciously applied tax.I hope you have notified the relevant authorities about all this!
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You are going to have to get vat registered now.
That current seems very low. I've only tried this once, on a seized vice, but I think I had something closer to 2A. But I like more action!
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premmington
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Following this thread with interest - never had a go at this.
Windy Miller
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Try it - it’s surprisingly easy, and it’s surprisingly effective.
It REALLY works!
premmington
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I watched my Dad do this years ago with battery charger.
But I geared up for an experiment - I got loads of old PSU units lying about.
MattF
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You ought give it a go. It is very effective.
Popped the base from this in there yesterday.
It's the Drummond con-rod boring jig I bought from a member on here a while ago. Cleaned it up today. Used the Bosch 12V rotary tool with a wire brush to get into the nooks & crannies, & the wire brush & scourer for the rest.
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I've read, but never confirmed myself, that high-carbon steels don't like electrolysis much - particularly springs, which can become brittle. Maybe someone can either confirm or dismiss this, but it might explain why the business end of your screwdriver bit has turned out like that.
I've had a lot of success at de-rusting stuff with an old Halfords battery charger. Often when parts are finished and cleaned I paint them immediately with Kingston Kurust - it prevents the flash rusting and provides a basis for subsequent painting if needed, and its water soluble so you don't have to dry things after washing. Otherwise, for things that don't need or want to be painted, its wd40 as someone else suggested above.
Onoff
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It's a thing, called hydrogen embrittlement. It's why you have to be super cautious zinc plating high tensile steel. Think how most 10.9 and above suspension fixings are usually black.
Various reasons including the alkaline medium you make as an electrolyte. Similar to the acid medium with citric acid de-rusting. Both can cause problems. This HSE guidance is all about it albeit more from a lifting component viewpoint:
