- Thread starter owas
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owas
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Ah yes, forgot how much standing on a hard floor all day hurts with steel toe shoes on,
wont be rolling anything really so I think the mats will be the way to go.
The floor does get damp at the moment but as soon as I seal around the outside it should be ok, it has a DPM under it just not sealed around the steel yet.
I'd get a bit of grout between the slabs as well too of course. I wouldn't bother rubbering under your workbenches, makes it hard to change sheets too when you need to as the bench will be sat on top of the rubber bit you need to change!
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Check what happens when rubber mats get welding sparks dropping on them, we had to pick the right type for the welding booths at work.
owas
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Ill do abit of stick practice above one and see how it handles tomorow, it is the less dense mats that look like there mad of shredded rubber as apose to the stable mats I have in my gym, those f****** weigh around 45kg per 6x4 mat.
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Tell me about it, I had to manhandle about a dozen of them in and around Mrs Robo's stable! the hard bit was trimming a couple of inches off a few of them to fit.
owas
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Makes it worse when theyve got that slippery coating on, cant get a decent grip on the things.
Luckily never had to cut any
owas
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Thats the electrics finally done,
communication error, I wanted actual 16amp outlets, but they put in those switch things so I had them hardwire my 2 welders in.
Its all separate from the house rcd so I cant trip the house sockets
Only 350 total so cant complain
communication error, I wanted actual 16amp outlets, but they put in those switch things so I had them hardwire my 2 welders in.
Its all separate from the house rcd so I cant trip the house sockets
Only 350 total so cant complain
Was the fact they were all at different heights your fault, or theirs? I'd have asked them to put 16A Ceeform's in though, regardless, no faffing round with hardwired stuff. Also shame to see you only have a single way spare for future expansion.
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I think you need a new bubble for your level looking at the socket run 
owas
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Any of the 'look' of it is down to me ... I cut the holes out for sockets and didnt bother measuring anything really just cut a hole wherever I drilled a hole in the plasterboard for the wires lol. Aslong as its functional aye 
Ill see how it goes with them hardwired .. cant imagine there being any issues but ill just get them changed if there is.
Aslong as its functional aye Ill see how it goes with them hardwired .. cant imagine there being any issues but ill just get them changed if there is.
owas
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Any ideas why my snap on 160 (145amp) welder trips the 16amp as soon as I press the trigger to just feed wire?
Ive not tried my parweld 160 either yet so not sure if that does when it arcs either but both do turn on fine. (Cant weld yet, place is a mess with tools waiting for my roller cabinet)
Ive not tried my parweld 160 either yet so not sure if that does when it arcs either but both do turn on fine. (Cant weld yet, place is a mess with tools waiting for my roller cabinet)
brightspark
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more than likely its the starting current on the wire wound transformer when u pull the trigger even though u arent welding u may have to up the breaker to a 20amp c type .i have a 3kva site transformer and it takes a 30 amp breaker out just plugging it in
owas
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more than likely its the starting current on the wire wound transformer when u pull the trigger even though u arent welding u may have to up the breaker to a 20amp c type .i have a 3kva site transformer and it takes a 30 amp breaker out just plugging it in
Ah man, was hoping I didn't have to change something .. I think I might just throw the 13amp plugs back on use it like that for now, and change a fuse occasionally.
My 3kva transformer works fine In the shed 13amp sockets
owas
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So I didnt really plan for this to happen, but I'm selling my two welders in favour of a 250amp rtech mig/mma inverter for the extra amps.
Is it a straightforward thing to put a 32amp breaker in to the empty spot or have I shot myself in the foot here?
Would just surface mount trunking for this if its possible without too much hassle.
The snap on is just too big for the room and under powered for my needs, I only brought it because I was limited to a 13amp supply at the time.
Is it a straightforward thing to put a 32amp breaker in to the empty spot or have I shot myself in the foot here?
Would just surface mount trunking for this if its possible without too much hassle.
The snap on is just too big for the room and under powered for my needs, I only brought it because I was limited to a 13amp supply at the time.
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Don't see a problem, 32A mcb with 4mm² T&E feeding socket through surface mount trunking.
BrokenBiker
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no issue there. as robo says, its quite straight forward, simple run of 4mm. make sure cables are terminated properly i.e. no insulation trapped in connection and all is good
cheers!
Westfield-builder
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ERRRRR, how on earth are the cable routed for any of those16amp sockets, so the wiring to them is safe? The 4" fan must be directly above the left hand socket. What safe routes did you use for any of the cables feeding those sockets ?????Finally got round to doing this (expensive month!)
Changed the 16 amp breakers to type c as well
Horizontal? Vertical? Encased in an earthed conduit, protected by a 30mA RCD ?
Nothing looks like it would comply with 17 Edition, unless you can say why . . . .
