dump Trailer gate lock

[scooter2go]

I finally joined your group, I am truly in awe of the craftsmanship by everyone here. Great projects and work.
I'm building a dump trailer. I'm trying to find a way to lock both swinging doors together. I'm thinking of using a smaller square tubing to slide inside of the 1 1/2" I'm using for the doors. I would cut a slot in the tube,drill and tap the inner tube for a bolt.
What do you think? Scooter

 

[Richie_asg1]

Hi,
First post on here, so here goes .

I would go thicker - by sticking with a solid round bar, drill and tap the end for a M10 cap head bolt, and grind a slot in the Sq tube.
Make it quite long too - maybe 2 ft. then add a sprung -loaded bolt (used on farm gates) acting on the back of that to keep it there. To open it - pull up and lock small spring bolt - then slide the main bolt back.

The best method of base securing I've seen is a round bar along the base, with small lugs on it, and a larger "handle" at the end = which is normally kept upright with a ring on a vertical rail.
To open, lift up ring, drop handle, and the bottom bar rotates 180 degrees.

If you have a L & R version - you may have versitility to just open one side if you want.

 

[scarecrow]

Will the door be opening two different ways I presumably it's a tipper and that's why you want it opening as it a bottom picture it would have been easier if you had left it full Lent instead of splitting it in the middle
if you're going to leave it at the way it you will need to put in a couple of upright at the joint as it will be quite week with just the edge of whatever you are sheeting it with
you could then use something like the stable door latch or a couple of spring bolts probably the best idea
Nice looking trailer by the way looks to be strong enought to carry anything post a few pick of old trailer

 

[scarecrow]

Hi,
First post on here, so here goes .

I would go thicker - by sticking with a solid round bar, drill and tap the end for a M10 cap head bolt, and grind a slot in the Sq tube.
Make it quite long too - maybe 2 ft. then add a sprung -loaded bolt (used on farm gates) acting on the back of that to keep it there. To open it - pull up and lock small spring bolt - then slide the main bolt back.

The best method of base securing I've seen is a round bar along the base, with small lugs on it, and a larger "handle" at the end = which is normally kept upright with a ring on a vertical rail.
To open, lift up ring, drop handle, and the bottom bar rotates 180 degrees.

If you have a L & R version - you may have versitility to just open one side if you want.

Welcome Richie we'r thinking along the same line I can take a picture of the bottom method the Richie described if you want I made one for my tipper trailer
I'm not sure about putting and inserted through the box if it ever gets strained you won't be able to open it

And Welcome to you too scooter2go

 

[scooter2go]

Yes it's a tipper, the back gate will open two ways. I like to have the gates swing open out of the way when loading or unloading. I'll add a upright on each side under the horizontal gate tubing just where they meet in the middle.

 

[scooter2go]

Yes a pic would be great. I think I see what your getting at. I haven't even thought that far ahead about a bottom lock. I will need it when I have a load of gravel or dirt.
I'm not worried about the slides getting stuck with a load against them, then I'll be using the whole back gate, not the swing doors.

 

[wyn]

As Richie and scarecrow said, i would also go for round bar and lugs to hold the bottom of the two gates.

Maybe also something at the top so when the trailer is full and the sides are being pushed out you won't then end up with the top of the gates moving apart.

Another way would be to have "hooks" on a pivoting round bar up the join of the doors with "rings" for them to lock into on the other door. Seen this a bit on agricultural stuff.

 

[Richie_asg1]

Hmmmm - good thinking about the locking bars getting bent. This may be one area where over-engineering may actually help.

The base locking machanism will hold the centre closed at the base - so no risk of bending of that one. The top one could still bulge if you had a load of gravel in there.
Maybe a U section piece along the top - hinged at one end. Identical to the method used to keep 2 farm gates closed.
3" x 1/4" x 24" bar, with a couple of 1/2" x 2" flats welded to each side. (leave room for the outer plating)

Cut a slot in the right place for the internal drawbolt 10mm caphead - and it's self-locking

 

[Richie_asg1]

WYN's idea is good.

Agricultural is what we need.

Perhaps a cam-action hook - with longer lever, operating a shorter hook nearer the pivot point.

 

[scooter2go]

dump trailer start

Here's a few of when I started. The the axles and frame are from a 24' camper.
The dump frame is made from purlins, I think they are 16ga. Light and strong when you box them together. I built a 16' ft using them. Here's a early pic of it.

 

[scarecrow]

Got a bit of a fright there thought you were trying to tip the 16 ft trailer you would need to dig a big hole behind it every time
here is the pick


it's just made from the same hinges that is used on the carts your biggest problem will be ground clearance in the tip position it's not a problem with big trailers as there are so far off the ground but the tale of yours will be practically touching the ground when fully tipped
instead of a ring you can also use the key fitting for locking the bar
here is a slightly different one like wyn was describing I think

as wyn was saying that tailgate is also structural tying both sides of the trailer together so the centre locks might need to be able to hook onto something

 

[wyn]

That last pic is exactly what i was thinking about scarecrow, i think i saw them on big scrap metal skips.

 

[Benji]

There is a similar system used on shipping containers

 

[snowcat]

yes that method is everything from agri, to bulkers to the 40yard bins...... If it aint broke....

 

[scarecrow]

yes that method is everything from agri, to bulkers to the 40yard bins...... If it aint broke....

Not sure if it will work in his case because the gate is split in the middle but it is the best way of locking the tale gate

 

[madkayaker]

have seen a vertical one being used on scrap vehicle it have a bar that hooked under a plate

 

[wyn]

As MK says use the hooked type to lock the two doors together verticaly and prevent the sides splaying out.

Then use the other type with the flat plate on a round bar to hold the two doors along the bottom.

 

[scooter2go]

Thanks Scarecrow, Wyn and everyone else, I like locking the doors together, and locking the bottom. Using cams is a great way to go. I hung the other gate/door today. I'll start on checking what steel I have under the bench. thanks, Scooter