Drill Sharpener - Do they work?

[VL1500]

Martek

Sorry to come in late on this one, but I've only just found it!
If anyone's still interested in the "Martek" drill sharpener, I've been using one for years. I don't know a thing about sharpening anything, but this has been fantastic. The instructions were easy to follow and when followed the proper angles for the drill bits were automatically set. I sharpened all my drills taking about 1 minute for each one. I have now worn out the grinding wheels inside and need to find a source for these so I can start drilling holes in things again! If they are still available I would thoroughly recommend them to anyone!

 

[eil]

If you ever find a source for the grinding wheels please come back and let us know.

 

[Pete.]

What are the wheel dimensions?

 

[steveo3002]

http://www.multi-sharp.com/index.ph...n=com_oscommerce&osMod=product_info&Itemid=76

ive got this one , its no engineering marvel for sure , but i think it does better than i would on a grinder by eye

 

[Engineer1964]

That was one of the first things i had to do in a workshop when i was younger, learn to sharpen drills on bench grinder.

After a few years you tend to get the knack on doing them by had, Its second nature now, I don't think twice, There is a knack to it and its really hard to try and explain, the real secret is Practice and more practice

Secret Tip: Everything behind the cutting edge has to be lower.

Take a read of this to learn the basics http://www.icscuttingtools.com/the-champ/drill_point_geometry.pdf

 

[roofman]

That was one of the first things i had to do in a workshop when i was younger, learn to sharpen drills on bench grinder.

After a few years you tend to get the knack on doing them by had, Its second nature now, I don't think twice, There is a knack to it and its really hard to try and explain, the real secret is Practice and more practice

Secret Tip: Everything behind the cutting edge has to be lower.

Take a read of this to learn the basics http://www.icscuttingtools.com/the-champ/drill_point_geometry.pdf

very hard to explain thinking about it i agree...myself after coming off the front face of the bit you kinda press a bit harder and twist to the back edge like a little skipping action with your hand like Wayne Sleeps feet

 

[KemppiFrog]

Eclipse used to make a very good little trolley that had eccentric back wheels. One clamped the drill (max 1/2") into the holder lining up the edge with a metal clip. As you ran it back and forth over some sandpaper (W&D works best) the back wheels rocked it to get the back off from the edge. I have used it most days for the last 25yrs and rate it very highly. They come up on fleabay sometimes. If the drill is chipped or damaged then rough grinding first on the bench wheel of handheld angle grinder. Even new drills can be honed up for more cuts in SS.
One of my all time best buys.
KF

 

[langy]

I mostly sharpen my drills by hand (toolmaker apprenticeship) but the missus bought me a Drill Doctor 750X a couple of years ago and once you master the technique its brilliant.

 

[Flathead_Dave]

Big advantage with the Drill Doctor is doing split points.

 

[Honans]

Martek Drill Sharpener

VL1500

Any chance of a copy of the instructions?

I dont know how to use mine

 

[dannymac]

I'm gonna get hit with a big stick by the H&S guys on here, but I hold the bit in one hand and the grinder in the other...

Me too!

 

[Punx0r]

I have to say, it's worth getting stuck in and having a go sharpening them free hand.

I'm a total novice and had a go the other day. Within an hour and some trial-and-error I had technique that gave me a bit that cut as well as a half-worn one.

I just started on absolutely ruined bits that were going in the bin anyway.

I need to check out some better instructions, and I used the side of the wheel, which seemed easier, but I don't know if it's correct.

I just kept these points in mind:

* Make sure the tip is in the middle
* Copy the original angle and make sure each side is even
* The cutting edges must be the highest point!

One tip, don't rotate the bit when doing the relief. I assumed you had to and ended up with a pointed bit

Learn by doing

 

[swannhouse]

I've used my ''murray reliance'' drill grinding jig for the last 40 odd yrs for anything down to 1/8", & below that a ''wishbone'' jig which you use on an oilstone for anything below 1/8" I grind quite a lot freehand on the front of the stone of course, the trouble with the jigs I've seen is that they grind the edge of the flute parallell with the stone & it should be at right angles to last longer rather like grinding a cold chisel on the front of the stone.

slan go fol.

Do you have some instructions for the Reliance drill bit sharpener? Just acquired one, and need some help.

John

 

[awemawson]

Reliance Drill sharpener

Does this help?

 

[the artfull-codger]

Do you have some instructions for the Reliance drill bit sharpener? Just acquired one, and need some help.

John

those are the instructions that I got with mine years ago, you're better off trying with say a 3/16" drill bit [something you can see] I usually protrude it 3x the diameter from the cradle, if it's snapped I rough grind it near enough then use the jig, you have to line the flutes up with the groove by sighting it up,a little tricky at 1st,hope this helps.
slan go fol