Drill quill

[Rob 88"]

Bought a Qualters and smith drill , fitted with a jacobs chuck but no key !!! took the quill out entirely very easily . brought it to check if any carboot chuck keys would fit. but it wont go back in now . I cant take the pulley off as the grub screw is rounded off . Anyway what can i do
Thanks

 

[octo0072000]

drill

you may have to just wiggle it a bit and move the travel lever at the same time to engage it on its rack or unbolt the silver block to see what stopping it going back in

 

[johnny max]

That looks like a no.3 chuck key to fit that chuck

 

[Hitch]

Remove the handle, and put the quill back in, then you can put the handle back in from the side.

 

[Rob 88"]

Ive taken the handle out and it still dosent want to go in it stops just before the machined teeth mate with the shaft from the handle

 

[scott0031]

Is there any form of quill lock, if so check that's its all in place as this can often play havoc and go unnoticed when trying to refit.


There are very few possibilities of what can be wrong and always easily resolved. The shaft that sticks out of the quill body is the drive, this may not be aligning with the pulley housing, It will be keyed and must align to re assemble if not it will give you problems do some measuring and see if the measurements coincide with where its going clonk and stopping. I Guarantee you its something very simple and an oversight.


The last thing i notice is you have what is meant to be a key way for the quill body. This appears to be the screw of the front of the casting. Wind it out for starters, in case its catching.



Follow a common sense approach of elimination and you will get there.


Kind regards,


Scott

 

[Rob 88"]

will do thanks Scott , I'll let you know tommorrow what the story is

 

[gordon stephenson]

When you say you have removed the handle does that mean you removed the whole spring loaded rewind system? If not you will have to wind the spring loaded mechanism to the lowest position and re-enter the quill rack into the pinion at the same time and let the spring take it back up to the top.

 

[Rob 88"]

All sorted , and got a chuck key today , HAPPY DAYS.
Thanks everyone

 

[piman]

Hello Rob,

for the future, the chuck is easily removed from the drill as long as you have a morse taper drift, would have saved you a lot of hassle?

Alec

 

[scott0031]

Hello Rob,

for the future, the chuck is easily removed from the drill as long as you have a morse taper drift, would have saved you a lot of hassle?

Alec

I think that's wrong info for this drill. From what the pics show its not a morse taper spindle nose. looks very much like the taper, A j6 or something is machined direct on the spindle.



Glad you got it sorted, what was it fouling on?



Kind regards,


Scott.

 

[brightspark]

I think that's wrong info for this drill. From what the pics show its not a morse taper spindle nose. looks very much like the taper, A j6 or something is machined direct on the spindle.



Glad you got it sorted, what was it fouling on?



Kind regards,


Scott.

correct. the jacobs chuck taper goes from jt0 to jt5 ive just changed mine on my drill

 

[Hitch]

They come off with them little thin wedges don't they?

 

[Rob 88"]

A good clean out , and a torch to be able to see the slots meet up correctly. But it still needed a good few wiggles and strong pushing
j6 ? could i fit a MT spindle nose

 

[scott0031]

They come off with them little thin wedges don't they?

The one with the nose machined direct, yes you are correct they are like a U shaped wedge thingy. Alternative is a big mallet soft drift and care. Or you could if it possible tap the face of the spindle onto something like open vice jaws and let recoil help you, wont always work if its to tight but an option if done with care.




Kind regards,


Scott

 

[scott0031]

j6 ? could i fit a MT spindle nose

Most likely not. Anything is possible with time and money but as always things are not cost effective compared to going and buying a machine with a MT.


To convert yours could well mean a remake of the spindle, its hard to say without seeing it in person. Often spindles and the like are heat treated and ground this makes any mods a bit prohibitive and expensive.


If you really need/want a Mt, I would sell the machine you have and go get another. Forget anything with a No 1 morse as it defeats the object of having a morse in the fist place, to be able to use larger drills. Plus another consideration is the speed ranges of the machine. If it's made for chucking only then the speed range will be made to suit, larger drills need lower and lower RPM the larger the drill size..


You can use blacksmiths drill for larger holes, these are larger drills with a parallel reduced shank. Again the rpm of the machine comes into play.



Kind regards,



Scott

 

[brightspark]

A good clean out , and a torch to be able to see the slots meet up correctly. But it still needed a good few wiggles and strong pushing
j6 ? could i fit a MT spindle nose

the jacobs taper is machined on the end of the spindle and cant be altered . the only advantage of having a morse taper in the spindle is u can use larger than half inch drills with morse taper without using a chuck