Screwdriver
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The strips of what is probably plastic obviously there to act as a sliding bush and prevent the plate from grabbing hold of the beam.
- Thread starter Bki26
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The strips of what is probably plastic obviously there to act as a sliding bush and prevent the plate from grabbing hold of the beam.
Kram
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Is it not worth having a 4 or more way blade on the splitter? I'm assuming it wont be used for tiny logs and is more for the big stuff.
Seen a few log splitters and they are all horrendously slow compared to an axe.
Actual HSSE M35 or M42 would likely make a big difference for red hardness, not tried it. For a log splitter wont be noticable possibly more brittle and harder to temper.
Seen a few log splitters and they are all horrendously slow compared to an axe.
Coatings will burn off and make no difference, just a dirtier weld.
Actual HSSE M35 or M42 would likely make a big difference for red hardness, not tried it. For a log splitter wont be noticable possibly more brittle and harder to temper.
Ohh are you referring to the commercial one mid split not my design?
Yea I was thinking about it, I've seen versions where they bolt on or slip over the main blade which is pretty neat. Was thinking if I get a 20mm thick 250x250mm fence post plate and cut it to size then I could probably put a slot in the blade and insert the 100mm cutoff section to make it a 4 way when required.
Screwdriver
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Yes the working version.
MattF
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Well I don't see any strips on that just grease
Screwdriver
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Splitters of all kinds work great for straight-grained wood. However, a decent 12 "fork a 14 inch crown with several 6-inch branches branching off is a completely different challenge.
Fizzy & I had a hell of a time trying to split them on all versions of his hydraulic splitters.
Once he'd got the bits for his four inch screw splitter shaft , pulley's etc we found that the bench top it was mounted on was flexing when splitting forks & crowns resulting in welds failing . After some serious bracing and anti crush bobbins inserted in hollow box channel mounts . I think we have found a very successful machine .
One thing that we discovered during splitting several ton of well seasoned dry ash is :- It usually best to try and split off sides in 3 to 4 inch bites on crowns & branches rather than try to split through the middle of the major diameters when it is facing the splitter screw.. Occasionally, we found radial splits or shakes that could be exploited when the log was stood on one end.
Fizzy & I had a hell of a time trying to split them on all versions of his hydraulic splitters.
Once he'd got the bits for his four inch screw splitter shaft , pulley's etc we found that the bench top it was mounted on was flexing when splitting forks & crowns resulting in welds failing . After some serious bracing and anti crush bobbins inserted in hollow box channel mounts . I think we have found a very successful machine .
One thing that we discovered during splitting several ton of well seasoned dry ash is :- It usually best to try and split off sides in 3 to 4 inch bites on crowns & branches rather than try to split through the middle of the major diameters when it is facing the splitter screw.. Occasionally, we found radial splits or shakes that could be exploited when the log was stood on one end.
More than a single split on anything other than straight grained wood, will jam at some point, as a bit suitably knotted hardwood will jam even the biggest splitters.
Then you'll do a lot of cursing as you try to unjam it. If a sledgehammer doesn't work to knock the jam off, it's surprisingly awkward to extract a knife with a log jammed on it and spin it around to use the ram to push it off.
All the demo videos you'll see off commercial splitters, will be showing how easy it is to split some straight grained pine.
You'll never see them demonstrating on some knotted hardwood.
I wouldn't worry about hardfacing the knife. Bucket edging is ideal, but a suitable bit of flat mild steel will split fine. It'll likely bend eventually though.
Then you'll do a lot of cursing as you try to unjam it. If a sledgehammer doesn't work to knock the jam off, it's surprisingly awkward to extract a knife with a log jammed on it and spin it around to use the ram to push it off.
All the demo videos you'll see off commercial splitters, will be showing how easy it is to split some straight grained pine.
You'll never see them demonstrating on some knotted hardwood.
I wouldn't worry about hardfacing the knife. Bucket edging is ideal, but a suitable bit of flat mild steel will split fine. It'll likely bend eventually though.
Gareth J
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Hard plastic wear plates often aren't used. You are right that the grey wolf one you linked to doesn't.
greywolfattachments.com
I would leave them out for simplicity
GreyWolf™ Skid Steer 24 Ton Log Splitter | GreyWolf™ Attachments
In Stock & Fast Shipping, Order Now. The GreyWolf Skid Steer Loader 24 Ton Log Splitter features a 5/16" thick steel quick attach plate. Easily split wood logs using the power of your skid steer. 12" wedge splits logs up to 25" long & 24" in diameter. Easily attaches to your skid steer.
greywolfattachments.com
I would leave them out for simplicity
Yea it's only like 1x1.5mm overlap so a kiss with the grinder will fix that.
I was looking at some other general hydraulic splitter builds and noticed a few weld a plate on the beam top flange to reinforce it like below (though his was mostly to give a lip for the carriage) and wondering if it's worth getting a 700mm length of 90x5 to reinforce the sliding section since it's the flange is 8mm if I remember correctly for a 152x89 beam.
Gareth J
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Up to you but I'd keep it simple and make the sliding surfaces from something that's flat to start with.
Regarding reinforcement, that's hard to say what's needed. If your ram isn't too big and beam is solid enough, should be fine. Experience or calculation might tell you otherwise.
Just checked it's only 3.5x0.5mm interference so just a lick with the grinder will fix it. I'm trying to make it as cheap as possible hence using the u channel because it's the perfect size for the carriage and push plate and connecting the cylinder to.
I could use a 80x5mm flatbar ontop as reinforcement which would save me doing the little lick with the grinder and since the beam flange is 89mm that would give me 4.5mm sticking out for a strong lap weld either side to secure the flat bar but I have a feeling 90x5mm and edge weld would be stronger.
I think I'll add the flatbar anyway it's only like £30 but means the beam flange might not bend if the push plate randomly gets twisted
