Direct Gloss

[Myles1970]

So folks, painted my engine bay yesterday and although I’m sure spraying an engine bay with the car on a rotisserie is easier than painting one with the engine in situ, it’s not without its own issues.



The engine bay of a 1980s Toyota is quite compact, so getting light in there and keeping the gun at a constant distance from the panel is difficult. Add to that the undulating nature of the inner wings and I had a recipe for runs and dry spots



So I’m after advice for remedying this. I’m guessing that I can wet flat the runs out with 400 or 600 (?). I’ve also seen tool for removing runs that resemble stencils… are these good?

Stainless steel masking shims | removes paint runs | vinnybyrne.com

These Fast Mover masking stencils will quickly and efficiently remove paint runs and imperfections in newly finished paintwork. buy online from vinnybyrne.com

www.vinnybyrne.com

 

[Myles1970]

Just found this:

Maybe I’ll give it a go

 

[Domdom]

For cutting runs out I tend to use 400, then 600, 1200 and 2000 wet. Wrap it around one of those kids pencil erasers, the ones which are about 3x1 and about 3/8 thick.

 

[steveo3002]

looks like an ideal candidate for rubbing down with 800 wet and giving it another couple of coats

 

[Myles1970]

Thanks lads, I’m probably suffering from fear of wet’n’dry on my fresh paint. Think I’ll flat it all out and go at it again with more paint and more light

 

[tigdlo]

If you are getting dry spots where you are painting up to a part you have already painted, like overspray on an area that has already started to flash off then you can use fade out thinners to wet it out. Or just paint faster...

 

[minimutly]

If you are getting dry spots where you are painting up to a part you have already painted, like overspray on an area that has already started to flash off then you can use fade out thinners to wet it out. Or just paint faster...

Hah, that's when I usually end up with curtains....

 

[SierraV6]

Just found this:

Maybe I’ll give it a go

I was going to post a link to a similar video from Trev’s Blog where he demonstrates the same technique.

I’m also interested in those masking shims though, they look (potentially!) useful for individual runs, and maybe even chip repairs that have been built up higher than the surrounding paint?

 

[Myles1970]

I was going to post a link to a similar video from Trev’s Blog where he demonstrates the same technique.

I’m also interested in those masking shims though, they look (potentially!) useful for individual runs, and maybe even chip repairs that have been built up higher than the surrounding paint?

Yea, I think the filler technique might be better though for runs ..... worth giving it a go before forking out for something we might not need?
As for stone chips, I used to gradually fill them with paint on a fine artists brush and rub the excess off after a few minutes with paper towel on a sanding block dampened with panelwipe, repeating until it was level with the surrounding paint

 

[SierraV6]

Yea, I think the filler technique might be better though for runs ..... worth giving it a go before forking out for something we might not need?
As for stone chips, I used to gradually fill them with paint on a fine artists brush and rub the excess off after a few minutes with paper towel on a sanding block dampened with panelwipe, repeating until it was level with the surrounding paint

Yes I think for runs the filler technique is going to be better as it will work on any shape and size.

I’ve not tried your panel wipe trick, I always wait for the paint to fully harden then flat it back or shave it with a carbide blade. I’m no expert though!

 

[Myles1970]

Was thinking about this when I was at work today and suddenly it dawned on me that I couldn’t recall putting the paint through a strainer. So when I got home I had a look through the bins, and there it wasn’t: the strainer containing remnants of Freur Orange!



I’ve since flatted it all back with 400 wet to get rid of the peel on the two inner wings; I’ll do the firewall tomorrow.

I had been thinking that it would be fine to leave it as it was, it is the engine bay after all. But there’s too much effort time and money gone into it to just do a so-so job. And if I’m to consider painting the rest of the car myself I may as well start doing the best I can now

 

[Slowcoach]

Did you wet on wet or guide coat and flat the primer.

 

[Myles1970]

@Slowcoach I did a guide coat when I shaved the bay many months ago

 

[Burdekin]

What nozzle size and pressure are you using. Also what paint? A high solids automotive paint doesn't need a thick coat and will lay flat as long as you don't lay down too thick a coat.

 

[Myles1970]

@Burdekin 1.3mm nozzle at 2bar.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voilamart-Gravity-Sprayer-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B07RV98PH6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1WM8HMWYS8ESG&keywords=lvlp+spray+gun+1.3&qid=1658237873&sprefix=lvlp%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNFdENlM1V0hLUDFCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA3ODAzMTZGMDlRWk1SMjROUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTU4NTU1MzAzNzVKNlNIOVFMUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

As regards the paint, I'm not sure of the brand, but it's a 2k direct gloss, possibly Profix

 

[tigdlo]

Have you sprayed anything else before your engine bay?

 

[Myles1970]

Have you sprayed anything else before your engine bay?

I did smart repairs a while back

 

[Burdekin]

Try turning the pressure up to 40psi with full fluid and full fan. A bit more pressure should mean less orange peel but it also helps to get in those hard to get areas and for me less runs. Try and keep the trigger pulled as much as you can, keep the paint gun moving with nice quick coats. Do a trial dry run and work it out in your head what the plan is. Engine bays are fiddly to do but as it's on the rotisserie take full advantage of it. What worked for me was to turn it on it's side and do the areas you can get, turn 180 degrees and do all the areas you can get and then turn right way up and finish.

 

[Myles1970]

@Burdekin Yes, that sounds better than me standing inside the engine bay trying not to smudge the paint with my back

 

[Burdekin]

@Burdekin Yes, that sounds better than me standing inside the engine bay trying not to smudge the paint with my back

Ah yes been there, all going well until; I'll just do that one bit and then it all goes pear shape.