Decent impact e-torx sockets?

[armalites]

What would you use an impact on if not for undoing bolts?

Absolutely, I use an impact gun regularly but not for undoing internals on an engine. In ideal world that kind thing should slackened in a controlled even manner. I would say it's far less likely you would snapped that head had you just put a ratchet or breaker bar on it and eased all 4 bolt first. When you fully slacken an individual bolt like you have in the picture the load gets transfered to the other bolts. Once cracked loose then buzzing out with a power tool is no issue.

In this situation using a power tool has not saved you any time,effort or money.

 

[tigdlo]

When you fully slacken and individual bolt like you have in the picture the load gets transfered to the other bolts.

Exactly this, well spotted.

I've always cracked engine bolts in reverse order of the tightening sequence.

 

[James1979]

I guess I must be old school but I've never used an impact gun on an engine.

Ditto but there’s impacts and impacts.

I’ve a couple Milwaukee ratchets which claim to be impacts but I think it’s a very light one. To help with stubbornness. Even the m12 right angle impact is about maxed on a m12.

I’d never put what I’d call a proper impact on an engine.

100% agree with comments about time saving though. A lot of the reason mine come out is access. Like undoing storf clamps when something bursts so you can’t retract things out of the way.

 

[MetalMonkey]

No. If its a tight one I use a 3/4" breaker bar. It will need torqueing when it goes back so I will need to use a pulley holder.

I don't think you would get it in there tbh.
Honda have a special tool which is a cross between a box spanner and an offset O2 socket to hold the internal part of the pulley, through which your socket has to pass - 1/2" chrome or maybe 1/2" impact if it is a thin wall.
Shifting it with a 1/2 breaker bar isn't going to happen, way too much flex. I know some people will wedge a bar up against the subframe and bump it with the starter but that seems like a good way to make a bad day worse.

The first one I did, had the added bonus of having the body shell about 15mm off the nut, couldn't even get a ring spanner on it - aviation spanner just about went on, but you aren't getting a couple of hundred ft/lb on that.
So you have to drop the engine about 4 inches, possibly front subframe to, so you can actually get a socket on - and at that point you have the entire powertrain balanced on jacks, so heaving on a breaker bar isn't going to end well.
That's assuming you can even get a clear swing at it with the tangle of suspension, jacks and bodywork in the way.

After all that it still took a good five minutes with a fairly powerful impact gun wound up to 100 psi to shift it. - like I said, thems on tight!

 

[armalites]

I don't think you would get it in there tbh.
Honda have a special tool which is a cross between a box spanner and an offset O2 socket to hold the internal part of the pulley, through which your socket has to pass - 1/2" chrome or maybe 1/2" impact if it is a thin wall.
Shifting it with a 1/2 breaker bar isn't going to happen, way too much flex. I know some people will wedge a bar up against the subframe and bump it with the starter but that seems like a good way to make a bad day worse.

The first one I did, had the added bonus of having the body shell about 15mm off the nut, couldn't even get a ring spanner on it - aviation spanner just about went on, but you aren't getting a couple of hundred ft/lb on that.
So you have to drop the engine about 4 inches, possibly front subframe to, so you can actually get a socket on - and at that point you have the entire powertrain balanced on jacks, so heaving on a breaker bar isn't going to end well.
That's assuming you can even get a clear swing at it with the tangle of suspension, jacks and bodywork in the way.

After all that it still took a good five minutes with a fairly powerful impact gun wound up to 100 psi to shift it. - like I said, thems on tight!

I've never done one but the Honda crank bolts are often mentioned as a yard stick for impact guns.

I guess they can't be a tight as the Ford Ecobomb ones that need a torque multiplier?

 

[hooblah]

Why are these crank bolts on so tight? Aren't the cranks keyed?

 

[knighty]

These sockets are US pro. I've got a couple of sets of their torx and hex sockets and they seem ok. One of the hex sockets in the box wasn't correctly machined and I had to ask for replacement. This is the second time I'm having quality issues with their stuff. This time it's full on aids. The sockets aren't designed correctly, and they all wobble around like a pisshead on payday. My impact gun is literally shaking around because the sockets aren't straight. The seller has sent me a full refund and I've binned the lot.

there's counterfeit us pro stuff about... not sure if t's full on counterfeit or just other stuff in us-pro boxes...

I bought some on ebay, they didn't match the supposedly identical set I had and looked pretty crap, I asked what was up with them, no reply to my message but I got a full refund so counted it as a win

 

[Bornfree]

I don't think you would get it in there tbh.
Honda have a special tool which is a cross between a box spanner and an offset O2 socket to hold the internal part of the pulley, through which your socket has to pass - 1/2" chrome or maybe 1/2" impact if it is a thin wall.
Shifting it with a 1/2 breaker bar isn't going to happen, way too much flex. I know some people will wedge a bar up against the subframe and bump it with the starter but that seems like a good way to make a bad day worse.

The first one I did, had the added bonus of having the body shell about 15mm off the nut, couldn't even get a ring spanner on it - aviation spanner just about went on, but you aren't getting a couple of hundred ft/lb on that.
So you have to drop the engine about 4 inches, possibly front subframe to, so you can actually get a socket on - and at that point you have the entire powertrain balanced on jacks, so heaving on a breaker bar isn't going to end well.
That's assuming you can even get a clear swing at it with the tangle of suspension, jacks and bodywork in the way.

After all that it still took a good five minutes with a fairly powerful impact gun wound up to 100 psi to shift it. - like I said, thems on tight!

Never done a Honda but Navara d40 are 75nm plus 120° that takes some pulling.

 

[armalites]

Why are these crank bolts on so tight? Aren't the cranks keyed?

Ecoboost is monster tight, you need a 5:1 torque multiplier, I would imagine the ultimate torque could be 600+

Using the original torque multiplier Ford prescribes to perform the following steps:

1. Torque to 60 Nm (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
2. Stage 1 90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
Stage 2 90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
Stage 3 90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
Stage 4 90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
Stage 5 90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).


This should result in the following figures without using the torque multiplier:

1. Torque to 300 Nm (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
2. Stage 1 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
Stage 2 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
Stage 3 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
Stage 4 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
Stage 5 16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).