I have a dan mig 140. It stopped wire feeding today. It still has an arc but no feed. Any ideas? I can get pics tomorrow if that would help. The solenoid for the gas works. I do not have 24 volts to the wire weed motor. I have low voltage to the solenoid. How does the wire feed get power? I was wondering if the relay could be bad. It has a Dan foss C10. I have continuity across the relay and it does engage. Could it engage but not give the correct amperage? The control board does not get power on the bottom
- Thread starter ng8264723
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Hello and welcome to the Forum !
There have been a few earlier threads on this site about the Dan-Mig 140 Mono, which is a rebadged high-quality Danish Migatronic machine, and they contain lots of useful information:
There is an Operating Manual here:
drive.google.com
I would start by checking the 800mA fuse shown in picture #13 of the first thread linked above.
There have been a few earlier threads on this site about the Dan-Mig 140 Mono, which is a rebadged high-quality Danish Migatronic machine, and they contain lots of useful information:
There is an Operating Manual here:
Dan-Mig 140 Mono - Instruction Manual.pdf
Instrution Manual for Dan-Mig 140 Mono Welding Machine
drive.google.com
I would start by checking the 800mA fuse shown in picture #13 of the first thread linked above.
I believe that power for the wirefeed motor comes from a medium-sized auxiliary transformer, and is 24 to 27 volts AC.
The control electronics is in a box with a 14-pin connector. The circuit diagram of the box in Post #9 of this thread may apply to your welder:
According to Post #15 of the first thread linked in my post #2 above, the low-voltage AC input is fed in to the box on Pins A and D, and L and P.
Positive to the wirefeed motor goes from Pin C, and negative from Pins R and M.
The speed control circuit for the wirefeed motor consists of two thyristors ( SCRs ) and two diodes, forming what is known as a "half-controlled bridge". It is a rectifier for the 24v AC supply, with an output that can be controlled by varying the width of the trigger pulses on the gates of the two thyristors.
The control electronics is in a box with a 14-pin connector. The circuit diagram of the box in Post #9 of this thread may apply to your welder:
According to Post #15 of the first thread linked in my post #2 above, the low-voltage AC input is fed in to the box on Pins A and D, and L and P.
Positive to the wirefeed motor goes from Pin C, and negative from Pins R and M.
The speed control circuit for the wirefeed motor consists of two thyristors ( SCRs ) and two diodes, forming what is known as a "half-controlled bridge". It is a rectifier for the 24v AC supply, with an output that can be controlled by varying the width of the trigger pulses on the gates of the two thyristors.
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A professional-class machine like the Dan-Mig would not have a "live" torch by design. Welding power ( arc ) is switched by the torch trigger, a TRIAC, and the operating coil of the Contactor ( Danfoss C10 ). If your machine has constant arc power, that is a fault.
Regarding the wirefeed fault, please look through the information and pictures about the 24v AC power source, the fuse, the 14-pin connector, and the control board linked above, and check if any of it applies to your machine. If not, send some photos of your version of Dan-Mig so we can start to investigate it.
Regarding the wirefeed fault, please look through the information and pictures about the 24v AC power source, the fuse, the 14-pin connector, and the control board linked above, and check if any of it applies to your machine. If not, send some photos of your version of Dan-Mig so we can start to investigate it.
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I think that your MIG welder may be a Dan-Mig clone of an earlier version of the Migatronic 140, before the parent company standardised on the multi-pin plug method of connecting the control box. There are a few photos on the Forum website of Migatronic control boxes that use a white plastic 6-way screw-terminal strip, as yours does. E.G.Post #3 here
Some of the wiring on your welder looks non-standard, like it has been fixed or modified before.
When set to Continuous mode, the Danfoss relay should stay "On" for as long as you hold the trigger switch pressed. I think that your version may have "Spot" and/or "Stitch" welding modes, selectable by a multi-position rotary switch on the front panel. A photo of the front panel, and maybe the part number of the control board, would help. The number, printed or etched on the front or back of the board, may be something like 76116187, 17616973, or any of the numbers in Post #6 here:
In Spot mode, the welder will stay on for a short time after pressing the trigger and then cut out automatically. This may be the faulty behaviour that you are seeing. It could be due to an error in the electronic logic, or just a poor contact on the rotary Mode switch. The springy contacts inside are known to corrode or weaken with age. The switch could be cleaned with a solvent, or replaced, or if you do not use it, we could maybe disable the Spot mode. Initially, try rotating the rotary Mode switch backwards and forwards several times.
Some of the wiring on your welder looks non-standard, like it has been fixed or modified before.
When set to Continuous mode, the Danfoss relay should stay "On" for as long as you hold the trigger switch pressed. I think that your version may have "Spot" and/or "Stitch" welding modes, selectable by a multi-position rotary switch on the front panel. A photo of the front panel, and maybe the part number of the control board, would help. The number, printed or etched on the front or back of the board, may be something like 76116187, 17616973, or any of the numbers in Post #6 here:
In Spot mode, the welder will stay on for a short time after pressing the trigger and then cut out automatically. This may be the faulty behaviour that you are seeing. It could be due to an error in the electronic logic, or just a poor contact on the rotary Mode switch. The springy contacts inside are known to corrode or weaken with age. The switch could be cleaned with a solvent, or replaced, or if you do not use it, we could maybe disable the Spot mode. Initially, try rotating the rotary Mode switch backwards and forwards several times.
Hi,
I was mistaken on the model number. It is a 180. I can't take pics until next week. It is not close to my house. I have purchased a new relay. The old one started buzzing when you plugged it in. It was also nonresponsive to the trigger. In regards to the board it has a passed testing with a 1`981 date. The other side of the welder has the same font and a similiar testing sticker. So they are definitely original. Some of the wires may have been changed....
I was mistaken on the model number. It is a 180. I can't take pics until next week. It is not close to my house. I have purchased a new relay. The old one started buzzing when you plugged it in. It was also nonresponsive to the trigger. In regards to the board it has a passed testing with a 1`981 date. The other side of the welder has the same font and a similiar testing sticker. So they are definitely original. Some of the wires may have been changed....
Well I found yorweld on eBAY. He has been helping me. He did rebuild the PCB board. I think The PCB was faulted in a manner that allowed the torch to stay live. He replaced the pots and went through it. I then did some more investigatiojn and found the rectifier had a blown diode. He is sending me a new rectifier. I also found the cap bank had a leaking cap. So I am replacing the bank. The parts should be here monday. Hopefully I will be up and running soon. I am actually trying to buy another machine. I found a broken dan mig on facebook. I figure the second will be easier to fix!
