Cutting OSB (Neatly!)

[roblane65]

Down cutting blades will work perfectly well on OSB as long as you have a decent-ish jig saw where you can turn off the pendulem action ( usually a small lever on the side set it to 0 ) It's when the pendulum is on the teeth are hitting at to sharp an angle, which causes the jumping. as soon as you feel the blades start to drag bin it and use a new one
good ones should last a while in OSB and easier to do as you can see your line if it's a wavy scribe.

 

[SierraV6]

Down cutting blades will work perfectly well on OSB as long as you have a decent-ish jig saw where you can turn off the pendulem action ( usually a small lever on the side set it to 0 ) It's when the pendulum is on the teeth are hitting at to sharp an angle, which causes the jumping. as soon as you feel the blades start to drag bin it and use a new one
good ones should last a while in OSB and easier to do as you can see your line if it's a wavy scribe.

Cheers, I have an 18v blue Bosch, you can turn the pendulum action off so that’s useful to know.

The circular saw ideas are all great and I actually wouldn’t mind one anyway, but if the scribed edges are a bit wavy it will be back to the jigsaw which is why I’m leaning towards it.

 

[gaz1]

it wouldnt be out if you used the table saw method every cut would be the same no matter which side or length that you cut from

even putting any angle on them as long as you number them they will match up when fitting them

sometimes an angle cut can aid when fitting them

these angle pieces are on plasterboard sheets only slight but they are there

 

[Shedendman]

These 8x4 sheets btw?

 

[Shedendman]

Much the same way i'd do it,but without pink toes
Even a cheap circular saw will do,still tape the cut line though

 

[SierraV6]

These 8x4 sheets btw?

Yes they are.

 

[SierraV6]

it wouldnt be out if you used the table saw method every cut would be the same no matter which side or length that you cut from

even putting any angle on them as long as you number them they will match up when fitting them

sometimes an angle cut can aid when fitting them

these angle pieces are on plasterboard sheets only slight but they are there

Sorry that's not what I meant, I mean the scribed edges where they sit against the existing walls. The walls aren't at all straight so I'll probably need to scribe the edges so that they fit tightly (bascially like you would when fitting kitchen units or a worktop). They're the cuts I won't be able to use a circular saw for.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Much the same way i'd do it,but without pink toes
Even a cheap circular saw will do,still tape the cut line though

Only amendment. 3 teeth below the materials not half a tooth

 

[anjum]

Looking at it differently, is there no way to redesign it so your cut edges are not visible or hidden?

 

[Screwdriver]

It can be done with a hand saw, I've done it with perfectly acceptable results bu it takes forever. Best bet is to score a line at the cut. Use a marking knife/kiridashi (not a stanley blade!) they have a single bevel you need for ultra precision. I have heard them referred to as a "knife wall" because the cut obviously acts as a barrier to the fibres of the wood splitting out. Works well on regular wood but on oriented stands...

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

They way I have cut OSB boards and other man made timber.

Lay as many sheets as you can together, this saving time in cuts and marking.
Lay out 2" masking tape and mark out.

Using a sharp Marking knife, I have used Stanley style blades in the past, with not much difference.
Score the line.

If on OSB boards you run your hands over the surface and it "feels rough and splintery". Run a Back saw along the line to cut into the upper layer.

Tape over the line again and mark again with a marker pen.

Set the saw up so only 1 complete tooth is above the board. If you have a standard bench saw blade. Try and get a fine tooth blade, takes a bit longer, but will reduce tear out.

Using a hand held circular saw. Again set the depth up, so very little blade is exposed when cutting.
Cut slowly letting the blade do the work.

OSB will splinter, but I find this way works, for me.

 

[SierraV6]

Looking at it differently, is there no way to redesign it so your cut edges are not visible or hidden?

Yes that is an option I did consider initially, it could look a little fussy though if I introduce coverstrips over the joints.