- Thread starter Pikey365
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They sem to work ok, if they fail it's usually something like a pcb which you can get pretty easily. Apparently they get through tips/electrodes pretty rapidly but you can buy huge accessory packs for not a lot of money.
Seems a little funny to be asking after you've won it though, usually it's questions first to decide if it's worth a punt. I'm sure it'll be fine as long as they honour any waranty issues that may arise.
Seems a little funny to be asking after you've won it though, usually it's questions first to decide if it's worth a punt. I'm sure it'll be fine as long as they honour any waranty issues that may arise.
Unless of course you're planning on being very bad and not coughing up, despite having won the auction..... 
Very bad.
I can be bad, very bad when it comes to hard earned! I'm paying for it tomorrow but sign for the item unchecked and send him a email within 24hrs if I'm not happy with the goods! 12 months waranty which does not cover Blades,Tyres, Missuse, abuse, improper instalation and lack of servicing. Ok get the jist.
I can be bad, very bad when it comes to hard earned! I'm paying for it tomorrow but sign for the item unchecked and send him a email within 24hrs if I'm not happy with the goods! 12 months waranty which does not cover Blades,Tyres, Missuse, abuse, improper instalation and lack of servicing. Ok get the jist.
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Payed for and waiting for delivery tomorrow.
Well chaps I will let you know how I get on. Spares for these things easy to come buy off weldequip? What sort of litre per minute of compressed air do I need for a supply? What sort of compressor tank size do I require(25, 50, 100 litres or more).
Well chaps I will let you know how I get on. Spares for these things easy to come buy off weldequip? What sort of litre per minute of compressed air do I need for a supply? What sort of compressor tank size do I require(25, 50, 100 litres or more).
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peterd51
happy to be here!
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- 1,593
Hi,
Mines a Berlan but 40Amps so it'll be similar.
I use a 2HP, 25 litre tank compressor that has a maximum of 172 litres per minute...it runs OK on that.
As I recall the cutter takes about 140 lpm or so, at a maximum of around 4 bar or 65 PSI but I turn that down a bit if I'm on thin metal (ms).
I can start cutting with a full tank and after about 15 - 20 seconds the motor cuts in. I can carry on for about a minute. But then I tend to do bits and pieces, not running continuously, so it suits me. I can't think that's it's every stopped me working.
Regards
Peter
Mines a Berlan but 40Amps so it'll be similar.
I use a 2HP, 25 litre tank compressor that has a maximum of 172 litres per minute...it runs OK on that.
As I recall the cutter takes about 140 lpm or so, at a maximum of around 4 bar or 65 PSI but I turn that down a bit if I'm on thin metal (ms).
I can start cutting with a full tank and after about 15 - 20 seconds the motor cuts in. I can carry on for about a minute. But then I tend to do bits and pieces, not running continuously, so it suits me. I can't think that's it's every stopped me working.
Regards
Peter
I blew the Cut-40 up!
Set the cutter up today, started cutting 2mm sheet steel to get used to it, I like it a lot. I then progressed onto a 20mm thick piece of mild steel but could only cut 14mm into it. The red OC light came on so I had to leave it cool down for 3 minutes. I got a piece of aluminum checker plate and cut that with ease, I then thought 'Brass', started cutting the 3mm brass plate, but as I came to the end of the cut I saw a flash in the invertor. Left it cool down and turned it back on but could not get an arc, the switch etc works ok. Stripped the case off with a sparky mate of mine and everything looked ok until he saw what had caused the flash, one melted capacitor, melted diode and a blown resistor! Sent it back under warrenty. What would cause tese to blow?
Set the cutter up today, started cutting 2mm sheet steel to get used to it, I like it a lot. I then progressed onto a 20mm thick piece of mild steel but could only cut 14mm into it. The red OC light came on so I had to leave it cool down for 3 minutes. I got a piece of aluminum checker plate and cut that with ease, I then thought 'Brass', started cutting the 3mm brass plate, but as I came to the end of the cut I saw a flash in the invertor. Left it cool down and turned it back on but could not get an arc, the switch etc works ok. Stripped the case off with a sparky mate of mine and everything looked ok until he saw what had caused the flash, one melted capacitor, melted diode and a blown resistor! Sent it back under warrenty. What would cause tese to blow?
gavuk
artful-bodger
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Intenetion was not to offend 
,just chuckled to myself as there is another thread where Lurd is being told 14mm is unrealistic for a 40amp cutter,and you go almost straight to 20mm:clapping....as you have said it worked afterwards ,even though it overheated,i would suspect the company would repair /replace under warrenty,hopefully it doesn't cost you too much to return and it may be better not to say you tried cuttting plate that thick in case they try to wriggle out of their warranty.These machines mostly are assembled in china,and possibly not manufactured with the highest quality components,its a bit of a gamble in truth but when they work they are fantastic and there are plenty of happy owners out there, check out shop-river on e-bay, for consummables and the longer tips are better for following templates ,even hardboard can be used ...hope this helps Gav
,just chuckled to myself as there is another thread where Lurd is being told 14mm is unrealistic for a 40amp cutter,and you go almost straight to 20mm:clapping....as you have said it worked afterwards ,even though it overheated,i would suspect the company would repair /replace under warrenty,hopefully it doesn't cost you too much to return and it may be better not to say you tried cuttting plate that thick in case they try to wriggle out of their warranty.These machines mostly are assembled in china,and possibly not manufactured with the highest quality components,its a bit of a gamble in truth but when they work they are fantastic and there are plenty of happy owners out there, check out shop-river on e-bay, for consummables and the longer tips are better for following templates ,even hardboard can be used ...hope this helps GavThanks
Thankyou for some usefull information. When the replacement comes it will cut 10mm max. The guys advert says it would cut up to 25mm which I thought was a bit over the top but hey, if you don't try you don't get. Well he's getting it back and I will get another one to play with.
Thankyou for some usefull information. When the replacement comes it will cut 10mm max. The guys advert says it would cut up to 25mm which I thought was a bit over the top but hey, if you don't try you don't get. Well he's getting it back and I will get another one to play with.
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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Why would cutting brass kill it? Greater heat needed due to dispersion?
Brass.
The cutter was fine after cutting the 20 mm steel, after the OC light went out. I cut a couple of pieces of 2mm steel plate and a piece of aluminum checker after. The poo hit the fan when I cut the brass plate, I have a castle tip on it and this was on the material I was cutting? It just stopped and lots of yellow sparks etc from invertor?
The cutter was fine after cutting the 20 mm steel, after the OC light went out. I cut a couple of pieces of 2mm steel plate and a piece of aluminum checker after. The poo hit the fan when I cut the brass plate, I have a castle tip on it and this was on the material I was cutting? It just stopped and lots of yellow sparks etc from invertor?
