Cupping of Feather Edge Boarding...?

[keithski122]

Its going to cup where you've screwed it, you're pulling a weak flat board into an angled section with a screw right in the center.I think I wouls of screwed it on the thinner edge then cover the screw with the next upper board.

 

[james butler]

I've just tried it, sadly it splits and it's already dry. I ain't buying any more timber, I gotta make this work.

Many fences use feather edge, and to be fair I've not seen many warped or cupped boards when in place.

fences have that 1x1/2 strips that help hold its shape on the edges and in the centre so maybe you could do the same, screw all the boards on then screw on some strip wood vertically to pull it flat.

 

[The Z'eer]

Its going to cup where you've screwed it, you're pulling a weak flat board into an angled section with a screw right in the center.I think I wouls of screwed it on the thinner edge then cover the screw with the next upper board.

Yeah, that's what it looks like but I assure you the screws were left loose and the boards were flat before this sudden hot spell of weather. I perhaps should've made less of an overlap and screwed the lower part of the board.

 

[The Z'eer]

fences have that 1x1/2 strips that help hold its shape on the edges and in the centre so maybe you could do the same, screw all the boards on then screw on some strip wood vertically to pull it flat.

That's a possibility and may well help

 

[HughF]

Why did you use 50mm overlap? 25-30 is more usual. I personally prefer square edge weatherboard rather than feather, it's stronger. I usually cut it from windfall oaks off my property, which isn't applicable to most people sadly. However I always nail, so it just passes an 1/8th over the top of the previous board.

House was fine with oak 40yrs ago, workshop was done 8yr ago, no cupping

 

[The Z'eer]

Why did you use 50mm overlap? 25-30 is more usual. I personally prefer square edge weatherboard rather than feather, it's stronger. I usually cut it from windfall oaks off my property, which isn't applicable to most people sadly. However I always nail, so it just passes an 1/8th over the top of the previous board.

House was fine with oak 40yrs ago, workshop was done 8yr ago, no cupping

I used a 50 mm overlap due to information on applying feather edge. However, due the curling issue I probably will use 25 mm lap, that way hopefully it won't be as bad.

 

[mpats]

Unfortunately you may just have to live with it now. As others have said, a screw in that position is going to make it worse but you may have been a bit un;ucky with cheap wood too.
I finished this the other day, the feather edge is nailed on (nail gun because I'm lazy) with a nail through the thick end, so it goes through the top of the one it's overlapping. As others have said, 25mm overlap is more than enough if your fastener goes through both boards.

 

[The Z'eer]

Unfortunately you may just have to live with it now. As others have said, a screw in that position is going to make it worse but you may have been a bit un;ucky with cheap wood too.
I finished this the other day, the feather edge is nailed on (nail gun because I'm lazy) with a nail through the thick end, so it goes through the top of the one it's overlapping. As others have said, 25mm overlap is more than enough if your fastener goes through both boards.
View attachment 139211

Looking good

I've a fair amount more of the boarding so I can re do the job. I have heard that a nail or screw isn't supposed to penetrate two boards, only the one. Apparently that can cause splitting of the wood when it expands from absorbing moisture. This is only what I've read via the net, I'm far from any kind expert.

 

[HughF]

Looking good

I've a fair amount more of the boarding so I can re do the job. I have heard that a nail or screw isn't supposed to penetrate two boards, only the one. Apparently that can cause splitting of the wood when it expands from absorbing moisture. This is only what I've read via the net, I'm far from any kind expert.

Yes, it should just pass above the top edge of the underlying board

 

[brightspark]

the taper on the wood wont help as the thinner side dries out 1st hence the curve

 

[The Z'eer]

Yes, it should just pass above the top edge of the underlying board

Ok, I'll follow that when applying tomorrow morning.

 

[HughF]

This what the book says...

 

[awemawson]

Unfortunately you may just have to live with it now. As others have said, a screw in that position is going to make it worse but you may have been a bit un;ucky with cheap wood too.
I finished this the other day, the feather edge is nailed on (nail gun because I'm lazy) with a nail through the thick end, so it goes through the top of the one it's overlapping. As others have said, 25mm overlap is more than enough if your fastener goes through both boards.
View attachment 139211

There should be a trimmer down the corner - boards should stop short and butt up to the trimmer to make a neat corner

 

[HughF]

There should be a trimmer down the corner - boards should stop short and butt up to the trimmer to make a neat corner

I like to scribe mine in to the angle of the board that's on the 90, if that makes sense. Then I interleave them as I go up. Takes a lot of time, but I think it looks nice.

 

[gordon stephenson]

I think the screws Are too tight, Boards always cup in the opposite direction to the growth rings, But if they are screwed two tight they don't have a chance.

 

[mpats]

There should be a trimmer down the corner - boards should stop short and butt up to the trimmer to make a neat corner

Maybe if it wasn't just a quick garden store for gardening tools, plant pots and any other garden rubbish (so it's not in my garage), I'm more than happy with it as is.

 

[frank horton]

all wood boards will cup to some extent........it's just how they cut the log.......1/4 sawn wont but u only get a few decent planks from that......that's what furniture and high end wood comes from.........
T=G, feather boardetc is cut anywhich way they can to get as much out of the log as poss..........
did work on a place with 16" ish floor boards, 200 years old and no cupping, just a few small splits.......
it can be done....but now we cant afford it........

 

[The Z'eer]

all wood boards will cup to some extent........it's just how they cut the log.......1/4 sawn wont but u only get a few decent planks from that......that's what furniture and high end wood comes from.........
T=G, feather boardetc is cut anywhich way they can to get as much out of the log as poss..........
did work on a place with 16" ish floor boards, 200 years old and no cupping, just a few small splits.......
it can be done....but now we cant afford it........

In 200 years time I doubt any of my sheds will be around even if they were they made from high grade materials. Shame about the cupping but I guess it's unavoidable

 

[Gritineye]

This what the book says...

Correct nailing shown there, but the end grain shown in the middle board will cause cupping.

Done plenty, to listed building standards, never yet found any properly old featheredge fixed with two nails.

Wood always warps towards the heart, used unseasoned wood heart outwards and regret forever.

So fix heart side to the wall (look at the end grain of each plank and turn accordingly) with one nail about an inch up from the bottom edge, nail resting on board below is about right for seasoned planks, the wood is then free to move about without cracking along its length..

The taper and thin edge at the top is so the thinner wood doesn't expand and shrink as much as a normal plank, nails allow for movement but if parallel threaded screws are used something has to give and it's always the wood..use countersunk screws that start the split as they're driven in and there's no hope.

Nailing at the top of the planks as well will cause the planks to crank due to movement, even with seasoned wood, can't understand the need for a second nail.

30 0dd yrs ago I featheredge clad a three story listed building on top of the south downs, facing the weather, one nail only, gets lots of weather and still looking good today.

 

[HughF]