Cracked soil pipe seal

[julianf]

I feel like I'm winning -

I know bc says pea shingle, which I clearly didn't have, but I'm thankful that it appears that I emptied a bag of sand over it at least.

...which I realize could possibly have been a failure point but I doubt it every got that compacted. I think it just got whacked at some point.

The ring is floppy now that the tension is off, but I think the fear has gone out of the job now.


Wheres a sensible place to get silicon grease from? I've only ever purchased it in tiny 5g pots before.

Thank you

 

[OJCar]

silicon grease

https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-silicone-grease/p52744

 

[Onoff]

You've got better access than I thought. An alternative thought...

As your bodging it anyway clean it up as best as then pump in CT1 before jubilee clipping. CT1 will stick if the substrate is wet. It'll get messy so is a glove job.

To get the CT1 round the back 3D print some curved nozzles.

Please wait a moment while we check whether you are human or a bot. You will then be automatically redirected.

I've done similar.

https://flic.kr/p/WQueas

https://flic.kr/p/Wf37MC

 

[julianf]

As your bodging it anyway....

I'm just going to replace the whole fitting. Access is good enough.

It may be that I have to cut the center section to remove the old fitting, but, if there's that little play, if I then trim one of the pipes by 3mm or so, that will give be the "slip" to get the center in when I replace the fitting.

It depends on if the fitting was pushed fully home with assembled. I suspect it probably was, and there will be zero expansion - ie not enough to get the middle section out without chopping it.

I'll order the new fitting before doing anything more. I have one here but it looks like the seals on it are past their best and I can't be bothered with doing it twice!

 

[Onoff]

If doing "properly" rather than in situ, can you not expose more pipe and use a slip coupler as @Pete. first proposed?

 

[julianf]

If doing "properly" rather than in situ, can you not expose more pipe and use a slip coupler as @Pete. first proposed?

I dont understand what the point would be?

When these adjustable ones screw together, the mid section only has a 3mm ish lip. So all you need is 3mm of play, which can easily be achieved by skimming 3mm off the end of one of the pipes. The seal on them is about 25mm from the stop so 3mm is absolutely nothing.

I dont understand the advantage of adding another fitting / another potential failure point, when i can just replace whats there?


Im not set on a specific idea - i just cant see the point of adding more stuff when i can just replace the fitting thats in there currently?

 

[julianf]

I posted this photo before -

That shows the movement you need - just enough to slide that middle section in and out, nothing more.

I cant quite rotate it in my brain, but it may be that you can achieve the clearance by rotating the fitting itself, to open the gap / wedge, but, if not, a few mm slip on the pipe itself is all thats needed.

 

[Onoff]

If you can get a new one to fit then happy days. Some plumbers grease might ease the process.

Maybe buy a couple of bags of pea shingle too?

 

[gaz1]

if you need to trim off just a fraction more then make sure you take it on the flow side

so if its coming from the house side of it then the outside pipe is where you need to trim off more

my advice here if you intend to fit that is trim exact to the fitting fit the left and fit the right now fit the middle it will be ackward to fit it so you will have to grind off a 1mm do it until it is enough with wiggle so it will get on with a little bit of push

if you twist both sides you can fit one side whilst the other side is a real git to fit when you want a tight fitting setup

 

[julianf]

my plan is to get the exact same fitting and mark the pipes where the mold seam is, so as i can rotate the two ends around to the exact same position again.

i recall they are a pain to work out, so i think that will give me something to go on

 

[Onoff]

my plan is to get the exact same fitting and mark the pipes where the mold seam is, so as i can rotate the two ends around to the exact same position again.

i recall they are a pain to work out, so i think that will give me something to go on

A Sharpie is your friend when doing soil pipes.

Especially when doing solvent weld. Align dry and mark mating pieces. Apply solvent weld and twist to align the marks PDQ!