madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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thats very impresive how big a bolt can you undo with that?
- Thread starter Psymon
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The gas guy
New Member
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Had to put my two pennies in here....
The difference is huge, like comparing a top Mercedes, to one of those plastic things they used to make in the USSR.
Dewalt are made in Germany, sometimes the batteries come from elsewhere.
Makita are still made in Japan, as so are Hitachi.
Ryobi used to be a good Japanese cheap option, but no more.
The above are good tools, and a world away from the crud that is churned out of China. Some of these things that you get in the DIY stores are good to give children as toys, ,but little else.
Li-ion are not good for drills or most other tools except impact drivers, as they can not supply the current, and can be damaged.
Milwalki and the other American ones are way over priced.
The difference is huge, like comparing a top Mercedes, to one of those plastic things they used to make in the USSR.
Dewalt are made in Germany, sometimes the batteries come from elsewhere.
Makita are still made in Japan, as so are Hitachi.
Ryobi used to be a good Japanese cheap option, but no more.
The above are good tools, and a world away from the crud that is churned out of China. Some of these things that you get in the DIY stores are good to give children as toys, ,but little else.
Li-ion are not good for drills or most other tools except impact drivers, as they can not supply the current, and can be damaged.
Milwalki and the other American ones are way over priced.
looks like a bargin, could'nt see though, how many batterys.
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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2x 3ah
That is a bargain, if I hadn't bought my 18v Makita from screwfix before christmas I'd be having one of those. The extra battery makes it all the better only got one with my Makita.
chunkolini
celebrity artiste
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The Gasguy
said "Li-ion are not good for drills or most other tools except impact drivers, as they can not supply the current, and can be damaged."
Please explain yourself. This sounds like somebody who has something to share. Battery technology claims to have advanced exponentially over the years. NiCad is a hopefully (?) dead technology. NiMh (seemed?) pretty cool, no memory problems, a fairly speedy charge, no losing charge over time and not to big. Lithium seemed to be the bees knees, small light energy dense etc etc. Oh and a way of relieving us of more of our money.
Back to the quote from Thegasguy, is because Lithium Ion can provide is it torque but not power? some kind of amps versus volts thing? Eelectrickery is weird stuff to me.
Thegasguy, more info pleeeeease.
Chunko'.
said "Li-ion are not good for drills or most other tools except impact drivers, as they can not supply the current, and can be damaged."
Please explain yourself. This sounds like somebody who has something to share. Battery technology claims to have advanced exponentially over the years. NiCad is a hopefully (?) dead technology. NiMh (seemed?) pretty cool, no memory problems, a fairly speedy charge, no losing charge over time and not to big. Lithium seemed to be the bees knees, small light energy dense etc etc. Oh and a way of relieving us of more of our money.
Back to the quote from Thegasguy, is because Lithium Ion can provide is it torque but not power? some kind of amps versus volts thing? Eelectrickery is weird stuff to me.
Thegasguy, more info pleeeeease.
Chunko'.
aidank, a cordless impact wrench or impact driver is a wonderful tool. But you'll need a drill as well.
The cordless impact wrench has a 1/2inch or 3/8inch square drive, to be used with 6-point impact sockets. The big ones ( 18v ) will take wheel nuts off, but due to the hammer action of the impact mechanism, even a 12v or 14.4v one is great for mechanical assembly/disassembly work. They are light and fast - 2000 rpm or more - and they actually won't break your wrist. When the socket on the bolt or nut tightens, the impact mechanism keeps bashing it, but these pulses do not get converted to torque on your wrist ( as they would with a cordless drill/screwdriver ).
The cordless impact driver has a 1/4inch Hex chuck - a bit receptor for screwdriver bits. You can also use nut driver bits, or socket adaptors to effectively convert them to the square-drive impact wrench. They produce slightly less torque than the equivalent wrench, but will still put a woodscrew or coach screw straight into a fence post and out the other side. The "pulsing" also gives time for a Pozi bit to re-seat in the screw head, so they don't strip out.
One downside is that the hammer mechanism makes them noisy. And then there's the cost ! Since there is no gearbox or high-quality chuck, just a DC motor and a hammer, they really shouldn't cost what they do.
Cordless impact wrenches ( square ) are not as well sought-after as the Hex drivers ( or maybe mechanics don't charge as much as chippies ), so you can sometimes get them at lowish auction prices on eBay. This especially applies to the "bare" tools - no batteries, charger, or case. If you already have, or buy, the equivalent drill, that makes a good set.
The "Cowan Chuck" to convert a 1/2inch drive impact wrench into a "hammer drill" is an interesting idea, but it will not give you a free SDS drill. The pneumatically-driven impact movement that makes SDS work so well is axial, not radial. And you can't hold an SDS drill bit square in a 3-jaw chuck.
The cordless impact wrench has a 1/2inch or 3/8inch square drive, to be used with 6-point impact sockets. The big ones ( 18v ) will take wheel nuts off, but due to the hammer action of the impact mechanism, even a 12v or 14.4v one is great for mechanical assembly/disassembly work. They are light and fast - 2000 rpm or more - and they actually won't break your wrist. When the socket on the bolt or nut tightens, the impact mechanism keeps bashing it, but these pulses do not get converted to torque on your wrist ( as they would with a cordless drill/screwdriver ).
The cordless impact driver has a 1/4inch Hex chuck - a bit receptor for screwdriver bits. You can also use nut driver bits, or socket adaptors to effectively convert them to the square-drive impact wrench. They produce slightly less torque than the equivalent wrench, but will still put a woodscrew or coach screw straight into a fence post and out the other side. The "pulsing" also gives time for a Pozi bit to re-seat in the screw head, so they don't strip out.
One downside is that the hammer mechanism makes them noisy. And then there's the cost ! Since there is no gearbox or high-quality chuck, just a DC motor and a hammer, they really shouldn't cost what they do.
Cordless impact wrenches ( square ) are not as well sought-after as the Hex drivers ( or maybe mechanics don't charge as much as chippies ), so you can sometimes get them at lowish auction prices on eBay. This especially applies to the "bare" tools - no batteries, charger, or case. If you already have, or buy, the equivalent drill, that makes a good set.
The "Cowan Chuck" to convert a 1/2inch drive impact wrench into a "hammer drill" is an interesting idea, but it will not give you a free SDS drill. The pneumatically-driven impact movement that makes SDS work so well is axial, not radial. And you can't hold an SDS drill bit square in a 3-jaw chuck.
chevyman_de
Forum Supporter
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Frankly speaking I don't know and I don't care.
It will handle any bolt I will ever have to deal with and beyond. 4300 Nm max and a 1" output drive. I'm not even sure what I will do with it. I could use it as a drive for a small tubing bender or for ground anchor installation. This unit was originally sold by Caterpillar as a special tool for head bolt installation / removal.
These Hydratight torque multipliers are extremely expensive, about € 2500 - 3000 I guess. I found this one in excellent condition you know where for € 140 buy-it-now; complete with case, manual and spare output drive.
I had to give it a new, warm home. Hunting and collecting, you know. And there's not much hunting in Germany, so...
bigbadbugga
Member
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Just seen this thread, been to B&Q today, they are selling TWO Makita cordless drills with two batterys in a very substantial case (not the usual blow moulded tat) for £89.99. ****edit £97****
one is a drill driver, the other a drill/hammer drill. (both 18.5V). ***edit, 14.4V***
If I'd had the cash I'd have bought em myself.
*****edit, went back and got it****
one is a drill driver, the other a drill/hammer drill. (both 18.5V). ***edit, 14.4V***
If I'd had the cash I'd have bought em myself.
*****edit, went back and got it****
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