Converting a TIG welder to MIG

[Peter Christopher]

I was wondering whether any of you guys could help me out on this one? I bought myself a Jasic Pro 180 (http://www.weldequip.com/pro-tig-180.htm) about six months ago and it's been great. Problem is that I have some welds that would be much better done with a MIG welder and I was wondering how easy it would be to convert it? I'm still fairly new to welding but I'm assuming that it's just a case of buying a wire feeder and a new torch. Has anyone done this who'd like to share their wisdom? :-)

 

[Richard.]

I'm no sparky but I don't think it's that straightforward. A Tig power source is constant current same as an mma unit but most migs are constant voltage. I know you can get the multiprocess machines but they (I believe) switch from constant current/voltage depending on process.

 

[oddbob]

If it's got a stick welding facility it will run one of these (link). I've got one ...pretty much bought it out of curiosity, but it does work ok, just gets a bit erratic at low amps.

 

[weldequip]

Entirely different box of tricks & I wouldn't even attempt to couple those two together to be honest! The amount of stuff I have sold to people replacing a "bargain" off those people is considerable. What's the job that 'needs' MIG welding?

 

[Tiggy_dorset]

If it's got a stick welding facility it will run one of these (link). I've got one ...pretty much bought it out of curiosity, but it does work ok, just gets a bit erratic at low amps.

I have the same/similar gun, also bought out of curiosity. I havn't tried it yet, but you have reminded me that I still have it in a box. I was waiting until I brought my Tig home from work, I might try it out this weekend.

 

[Richard.]

What's the job that 'needs' MIG welding?

Was going to be my next question!

A tig unit offers pretty much a solution for most welding jobs. Granted it may not always be the best solution but you have the combination of welding very thin materials to very thick ones. A 1.6 mm tungsten set at below 10 amps enables you to join stanly blades and a 3.2 electrode at 130 amps will happily deal with a 10mm thick joint. Mig offers speed and it's a process that can be taught and used to a decent standard with less skill. Again yes it's very flexible on what it can weld (very think to thick)but I can't think of many case scenarios where you need mig or the job can't be done.

 

[BrokenBiker]

if i only had a tig and had a job in that would be 'better suited' to mig i would still tig it unless it was a big production run that required speed, or really thick, in which case i would flick the tig to MMA and use a 3.2mm rod

 

[Richard.]

Heat input reduction is where it's useful. Fast travel speed offered by the mig process is great for limiting distortion

 

[rikrobson]

From what I've seen the lift tig functions of inverter migs use the mma mode ao I'm make the wild assumption that the functions are slightly different. Therefore I'd draw the conclusion the mig would not work too well.
That being so the easiest way to convert you existing one would be to sell it and buy a mig.

 

[Peter Christopher]

Appreciate your responses on this guys. Sounds like it would be cheaper/easier to buy a dedicated welder from what you've said.

Basically I make rolling ball sculptures similar to these - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRMK3mFO4bhb_hYqy9cuZyw (I didn't make those, mine aren't nearly as good!). I've found that the tig welder is great for most of the work but there are times when you want to get in close and weld two bits of wire together and it's very tricky to use a filler rod and the torch on the same spot. It's not helped by the fact that there's very little material around some of the joints to pull the heat away so you don't get long to weld before the joint turns into a gloopy mess.

I had a play with a friends MIG welder and I was getting much better results. Only one torch and I can be in and out in half the time. Practice makes perfect though so I expect that I'll just have to get the hang of the TIG. Either that or I'll have to get my wife to up her Christmas present budget!

 

[weldequip]

PM me your post code Pete then I can get your address details. I'll send you an extended TIG ceramic; around 2.5X the length of a standard one & narrower to get in tight spots. Worth a try

 

[Peter Christopher]

PM me your post code Pete then I can get your address details. I'll send you an extended TIG ceramic; around 2.5X the length of a standard one & narrower to get in tight spots. Worth a try

Done. Offer much appreciated! Let me know how you'd like me to pay you. :-)

 

[Richard.]

Appreciate your responses on this guys. Sounds like it would be cheaper/easier to buy a dedicated welder from what you've said.

Basically I make rolling ball sculptures similar to these - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRMK3mFO4bhb_hYqy9cuZyw (I didn't make those, mine aren't nearly as good!). I've found that the tig welder is great for most of the work but there are times when you want to get in close and weld two bits of wire together and it's very tricky to use a filler rod and the torch on the same spot. It's not helped by the fact that there's very little material around some of the joints to pull the heat away so you don't get long to weld before the joint turns into a gloopy mess.

I had a play with a friends MIG welder and I was getting much better results. Only one torch and I can be in and out in half the time. Practice makes perfect though so I expect that I'll just have to get the hang of the TIG. Either that or I'll have to get my wife to up her Christmas present budget!

The only advantage of mig over tig on something like that is you'll have a free hand for holding something in place while tacking. I don't own a mig (no interest or intention of owning one either) I'd easily take those on with a tig and the tacks would be far less obvious. Are they made out of stainless? If so you could tack them without filler first and reinforce the tacks when it's all in place and your happy. The issue with mig could be if you get any spatter they are quite complex shapes to try and clean up. Pros and cons.

 

[Peter Christopher]

PM me your post code Pete then I can get your address details. I'll send you an extended TIG ceramic; around 2.5X the length of a standard one & narrower to get in tight spots. Worth a try

Arrived yesterday and I had a play last night. I've found it's a lot easier to get into tight spots with the longer ceramic. Thank you very much. :-)

The only advantage of mig over tig on something like that is you'll have a free hand for holding something in place while tacking. I don't own a mig (no interest or intention of owning one either) I'd easily take those on with a tig and the tacks would be far less obvious. Are they made out of stainless? If so you could tack them without filler first and reinforce the tacks when it's all in place and your happy. The issue with mig could be if you get any spatter they are quite complex shapes to try and clean up. Pros and cons.

I tend to tack first and then filler. It's a timing thing, because the weld is on wire with no obvious place for the heat to go, it means you either have to do the weld in several passes or you have to be very quick with the weld before it becomes a gloopy mess. I'm still fairly new to welding but I'm getting faster which means that I'm having fewer failures.

I've also actually been having a little joy with a jig I've set up that allows me to operate the filler rod with my torch hand. It's not perfect but I'm going to experiment some more and see whether it's usable in anger.

 

[KemppiFrog]

Interesting video.
I did some wire ( 6 & 8 mm) sculptures for an artist a few years ago. Basicly just shut my eyes and migged the joints ( I know... But I had a slight perma tan then and it didn't scorch my face) Being able to hold the additional piece and tack it on made the job way faster than trying to jig it up. The pièces were trees and she added some ceramic birds and a girl on a swing. Your ball sculptures need to be more accurate, But I assume you can tack a new wire by holding it in place, then TIG? Auto masks were a bit novel when I was doing the above, so no free hand.

The trees were shown at a Gallery in Lisbon, sold on the press day, for... around 15x what I charged her. I should be an artist, it pays better
KF

A relatively cheap Mig would do what you want, as the sizes are small. Stainless is OK too.