Consumer units

[brightspark]

take that 2 pole isolator out and the top left small db and put the twin rcd board up in place of them. stacks of room there any cables that are short just extend them with crimp conectors .. board wise either get hager bg or fuse box all 3 are good . im doing a db change at the school i do work for tomorrow . if its on your own house dont bother getting it tested . test it yourself as long as you know what you are doing

 

[bigegg]

take that 2 pole isolator out and the top left small db and put the twin rcd board up in place of them. stacks of room there any cables that are short just extend them with crimp conectors .. board wise either get hager bg or fuse box all 3 are good . im doing a db change at the school i do work for tomorrow . if its on your own house dont bother getting it tested . test it yourself as long as you know what you are doing

Cheers @brightspark .
That's basically my plan.
Although obviously, I would never do anything unlawful, and then publish it on the internet.

 

[xstian]

If you are limited on width, fit 2 smaller boards one above the other and fit rcbo's. Normally works out a lot cheaper than buying a dual busbar board.

 

[jimbo84]

Thought they had dropped out this year?

Yeah earlier this year but I believe as of very recently they're doing them again under Schneider, could be wrong though.

 

[bigegg]

I've settled on a Hager board.
They do a double layer board in various widths for around 200 quid, then the MCBs will be about another 100.
So at least I've got a rough budget - and an outline plan

 

[Robotstar5]

Knock up a temporary supply board

Isolate the installation (the seal fairies normally remove the seal on the service fuse before you get on site )

Remove the 3 old CU's, move isolator down next to meter and connect temp supply board then put your new CU at the top.

 

[brightspark]

my temp supply board is a double socket dangling on a bit of 2.5mm connected direct in to the meter so i can have my radio and kettle on .the guy came to read the meter while it was connected i just said im renewing the db and couldnt be arsed to get it disconected without hassle . he just said im not bothered nowt to do with me i get enough paperwork i just read them i said id seal it when finished as i have the seals so even if he went back what they going to do about it . just send someone out to reseal it

 

[The Artilleryman]

I've settled on a Hager board.
They do a double layer board in various widths for around 200 quid, then the MCBs will be about another 100.
So at least I've got a rough budget - and an outline plan

I know it will add to the cost, but surely it would be better to fit a new CU with RCBO's in, less hassle if something trips an RCD - only one circuit out.

If you go the RCD/MCB route try and find a CU that will take RCBO's later - I believe the ADA series RCBO is a direct replacement for the MTN MCB.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Having had a better look, I think I'll be able to cut around the meter, and mains fuse box, so I can move them without having to open them up, then just fasten the smaller boards to a new back board (or just the wall!).

If you are going to move them then you really need to open them to re-tighten the terminals, (that is seen as a big no-no) the meter isn't a problem to open up but the dno incomeer normally has a few inaccessible shields covering the screws. The incoming cable shouldn't be a problem but the outgoing will be more prone to causing a problem.
Seen a few fires from tails that have been moved and not re-tightened. Any physical movement to some older dno cables can result in big fire works till they burn then selves clear as the 600a fuses outside won't give a monkeys about a bit of boiling 25mm copper.

If I was going down that route I would leave the dno head alone, fit a couple of cleats to the outgoing cable on a spacer block so the cable can not possibly move. (Is it a split concentric? never seen it used on the outgoing.) Then move the meter to below the head come out into the 2 pole isolator then into your new board.
Would be better if you could leave them both alone. What's the earthing arrangement TT? Job to see from the photo.

 

[brightspark]

you allready have a mains service connector block from the meter so no need to touch or loosen there tails just remove yours from it and put new ones from your db in to it .no need for a double pole isolator as the mains switch in new db is just that. just make sure theres an earth rod fitted if it is a tt supply. the earthwire to that only needs to be 2.5mm protected or 4.0mm if it isnt . a lot of sparkys think it needs to be 10mm but it doesnt . just service bonding has to be

 

[bigegg]

It's a TNCS.
I won't move the head or meter if I can't avoid it - although I really wanted to get rid of the horrible piece of chipboard that they're mounted on. That was the whole point of the original question - to see if I could get a board to fit into the space around it, but still low enough to make access easy (ish)

 

[mtt.tr]

It's a TNCS.
I won't move the head or meter if I can't avoid it - although I really wanted to get rid of the horrible piece of chipboard that they're mounted on. That was the whole point of the original question - to see if I could get a board to fit into the space around it, but still low enough to make access easy (ish)

The chipboard belongs to the dno

 

[mtt.tr]

Go for a big board, and galv trunking, good place to extend old cables if you need to.


No need for galv i just like the clean look and i get it of jobs

 

[Matchless]

Couldn't sleep or a late night!

I have a Wylex installed in the workshop, seems decent quality. I think they are probably all much of a muchness. Wylex, MK etc.

Take a look at bigclive on youtube, he looked at a Wylex consumer unit a few days ago......... !!!!

 

[bigegg]

Go for a big board, and galv trunking, good place to extend old cables if you need to.


No need for galv i just like the clean look and i get it of jobs

I have a liking for metal, too.
I wish I could get a galv (or nickel plated!) consumer unit.
Have to make do with SS clad cupboard doors on the enclosure.