Conservatory Roof upgrade

[Hitch]

I'm looking to upgrade my conservatory roof, to a lightweight solid roof.

Currently a lean to type, about 4mx2.5m long nothing really wrong with it, so not wanting to replace the entire thing. roof is on a 4degree pitch, so pretty shallow.

We quite like the idea of a lightweight tiled roof though, instead of the polycarb. Also take the opportunity to plasterboard the interior walls, hopefully making it quite a bit more usable.

Im thinking to pull the p/c sheets off and glazing bars, increase the height of the box gutter section at the rear, so the pitch increases to about 10degs, then build a timber frame, say 4x2, stirling board, breathable membrane, then one of the lightweight tile options. Cellotex between and plasterboard under, following the roof pitch.
The front has a fairly substantial looking ally section across, which I could reinforce if needs be, I estimate the hole roof would be about 250kg tops.

Anyone used lighweight tiles on a job like this? https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/lightweight-tiles-roof-tiles.html
These would look similar(ish) to our existing Redland Grovebury tiles. Or might go with a contrasting slate type.

Wife said about a copper sheet roof, but not sure i want to do metalwork..or afford the copper

 

[Hitch]

A picture is worth a thousand words as they say.

No other way around the box gutter without a lot of work that I can think of.

 

[Parm]

What about fibre glass or the rubber membrane? Lighter but won’t go with your court yard style setting?

 

[mike os]

Going to solid roof may mean it becomes a building control job... check the rules

 

[frank horton]

u can get insulated pressed steel roof panels that look like tiles

 

[gaz1]

i need another picture from the front of it before i can say anything

 

[Hitch]

Going to solid roof may mean it becomes a building control job... check the rules

Good point...

Did some pulling off of trims, and there's a box section post on the outer corner, not just 2 frames siliconed together.

The method I had in my mind was fix a timber to the tall bit of the box gutter, like a wall plate, same across the front, onto the extrusion that's fixed to the post and then rafters between.

 

[Greeves246]

My conservatory was built by these people with their aluminium "tiles". Much quieter than polycarb, warmer in winter,cooler in summer. I have no complaint whatsoever.

Conservatile | Conservatory roof | Plank Lane Joinery

 

[gaz1]

one of the worst designs for a conservatory stuck under the gutter with a high point at side and the rear

always a leak point within that u channel area under the gutter and get full of crap if your not careful

 

[Newlands]

I’m looking to do the same. The current roof is double glazed units. I’m sure there must be panels available that can be cut to the same size as the glass units and simply fitted in place using the existing capping strips, but I haven’t found anything with Google yet.

 

[gaz1]

i have one more question what is in the far corner internaly

it should have something to hold the rear of the plastic roof unit up as its still affected by the weather wind ..

i understand its light weight but its still needs something to hold it down in place otherwise it would move considerably breaking the seal of the unit

 

[gaz1]

I’m looking to do the same. The current roof is double glazed units. I’m sure there must be panels available that can be cut to the same size as the glass units and simply fitted in place using the existing capping strips, but I haven’t found anything with Google yet.

ive done it with mine but its not common practice and does need to be strengthened at certain points

but i would need photos first to see

 

[Newlands]

ive done it with mine but its not common practice and does need to be strengthened at certain points

but i would need photos first to see

I doubt it would need strengthening. The double glazed units weight a ton, and I’m not looking to replace them with concrete tiles.

 

[Hitch]

one of the worst designs for a conservatory stuck under the gutter with a high point at side and the rear

always a leak point within that u channel area under the gutter and get full of crap if your not careful

The box gutter had leaked before we moved in, I gave it all a good clean out, and it's been fine since. Keep on top of it. It's an awkward one, as the roofline is pretty low already.
No real way to eliminate that box gutter without some fairly major work.



Far corner, to the right of doors?
I havnt looked up there.

The back has a folded aluminium section thats bolted to the box gutter, the extrusion that the roof bars are fixed to are fixed to that from what I can see. Difficult to see without pulling half the inside trims off.
Knocking up extra bracketry etc isn't an issue.
If it comes out as viable, I'll pull internal trims off before finalising a plan, but don't want to rip half of it down if not.

 

[500e]

The joints / corner angles seem heavy & make the roof look out of ballance

 

[gaz1]

The box gutter had leaked before we moved in, I gave it all a good clean out, and it's been fine since. Keep on top of it. It's an awkward one, as the roofline is pretty low already.
No real way to eliminate that box gutter without some fairly major work.



Far corner, to the right of doors?
I havnt looked up there.

The back has a folded aluminium section thats bolted to the box gutter, the extrusion that the roof bars are fixed to are fixed to that from what I can see. Difficult to see without pulling half the inside trims off.
Knocking up extra bracketry etc isn't an issue.
If it comes out as viable, I'll pull internal trims off before finalising a plan, but don't want to rip half of it down if not.

its 4m x 2.5m out its viable but id advise you to change thiongs while your there in that rear corner and out again

install a box gutter so it seals up behind the gutter and high enough for you to fasten onto the new frame you want a permanant seal on this the internal box gutter will give you this

you will then need a strengthening post either a wedge post or a post straight down your choice for the post nearest in the corner

if you frame like this at the rear

or like this

there is a metal one on this site as well made with 3mm 1" box section

if you want less weight use 3x2s otherwise its 4x2s

the front edge you want a 3x2 wall plate or 4x2 depeneds on the thickness of your windows i expect 3" thick frame

the wall nearest the house id use a 4x2 as you need strength there 5x2 is too heavy and its only sat on a 3x2

strength point are door points and window point there joins are the strongest part

the rear frame will allow you to fasten to it

now the rafter posts can be either 3x2s for less weight or you use 4x2s

you must board it so use 11mm osb board no matter what roof you fit on it

the rest is up to you in after that

 

[gaz1]

I doubt it would need strengthening. The double glazed units weight a ton, and I’m not looking to replace them with concrete tiles.

never trust double glazing windows to have alluminium strengthening in them some do and some dont the 3x2 goes over it for 2 reasons the windows needs replacing somone can hold up the roof the other reason its a strengtheing bar and something to fasten too

and that wood gets screwed to your windows from above its also a spreader of weight from the roof being fitted

and yes you can use aluminiumj box section if you want on top of it but thats up to you its your cost not mine

 

[Newlands]

never trust double glazing windows to have alluminium strengthening in them some do and some dont the 3x2 goes over it for 2 reasons the windows needs replacing somone can hold up the roof the other reason its a strengtheing bar and something to fasten too

and that wood gets screwed to your windows from above its also a spreader of weight from the roof being fitted

and yes you can use aluminiumj box section if you want on top of it but thats up to you its your cost not mine

The conservatory is aluminium framed. The rafters are around 90x45 section extrusions. I know how strong it is, and it is clearly strong enough to support the weight of the double glazed units because it has done so for the last twenty years.

 

[gaz1]

there is another method but it can be dear but its light weight and you still have to use a top wood or birdmouth the rafter

theres just one problem that you have one end must be supported