- Thread starter GrahamGKD
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MarkMG
what goes here?
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Well all the details are here http://www.ardex.co.uk/ardex_k300.asp
You just need to be happy it is going to be durable enough
You just need to be happy it is going to be durable enough
Omniata
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A floor scaler with chains would probably be the best idea...
We just had to do it recently for a customer that gave us incorrect information about floor levels into his house...
We were told by a professional floorer to scale the floor back 40mm and relevel with a high fibre content and concrete binder applied beforehand...
Basically a rut load of PVA then good quality concrete...
Be wary though, chain scalers make a hell of a lot of mess and rip the floor up rapidly...
We just had to do it recently for a customer that gave us incorrect information about floor levels into his house...
We were told by a professional floorer to scale the floor back 40mm and relevel with a high fibre content and concrete binder applied beforehand...
Basically a rut load of PVA then good quality concrete...
Be wary though, chain scalers make a hell of a lot of mess and rip the floor up rapidly...
Ive just done similar but for my house, We laid it and it went off partially before we could get to float it while we were still tamping other parts (130m2 three pairs of hands, manual tamp, two wagons worth within three hours of each other, bound to happen), took off the very worst high spots with a large stonecutting angle grinder and screeded the low spots with a bostitch commercial screed product. Had to be really careful as inside the slab were underfloor heating pipes, hence the combo approach.
We tiled throughout after to get the wear resistance and for appearance as the screen differed in shade quite a bit, whereas originally we were planning a polished concrete finish. The bostitch screed seemed very soft a week later and could be scored easily with a stanley knife (which I managed doing plasterboarding...) , but there are commercial surface hardeners and treatments for dealing with that if needs be and epoxy paints for the surface.
Hope my workshop floor goes off better, but Im getting practiced at it now
We tiled throughout after to get the wear resistance and for appearance as the screen differed in shade quite a bit, whereas originally we were planning a polished concrete finish. The bostitch screed seemed very soft a week later and could be scored easily with a stanley knife (which I managed doing plasterboarding...) , but there are commercial surface hardeners and treatments for dealing with that if needs be and epoxy paints for the surface.
Hope my workshop floor goes off better, but Im getting practiced at it now
GrahamGKD
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Folks,
Thanks for all of the advice - I said I would report back so here it is:
The builder hired a machine to cut/level the original concrete back - we then contracted a flooring expert to build the floor up with a product called Level Flex (this is very similar to the Ardex stuff but was the preferred product of the flooring guy). I checked beforehand with the manufacturers of Level Flex and they were reassuring that it would be suitable for my workshop. The job has been done and it looks good. I just need to paint it in due course. I have moved some of my kit in there but can move that around and paint the floor in sections without too much bother. I've fitted my home made steel doors and I'm chuffed to bits with them - they (two barn door style garage doors and one normal size side door) open and close smoothly with an even gap all around, everything fits up nicely and the locks throw nicely with very little play or flex anywhere. I can now look forward to sorting the electrics (normal ring main, 16A and 32A industrial sockets etc.) in the new year (I have a 50A rated SWA cable into the building but not connected at the moment).
To be honest I was getting a bit hacked off with working outside on the patio under spotlights with my welding/mains cables trailing out through the patio door and my portamig etc in the corner of the dining room - I finally have my bench and the basic stuff secure in the new building.
On the cost front - I agreed to split the cost of the flooring guy and the concrete levelling machine with the builder - he put in his labour for free. I know some of you on here would have been more hard nosed than that but it is Christmas!! The floor is now more smooth and level than it would ever be with concrete. Only time will tell on durability. It is repairable though.
Thanks again for the help and advice.
Graham.
(PS. I'm going to be offline now until the new year so have a great Christmas everyone)
Thanks for all of the advice - I said I would report back so here it is:
The builder hired a machine to cut/level the original concrete back - we then contracted a flooring expert to build the floor up with a product called Level Flex (this is very similar to the Ardex stuff but was the preferred product of the flooring guy). I checked beforehand with the manufacturers of Level Flex and they were reassuring that it would be suitable for my workshop. The job has been done and it looks good. I just need to paint it in due course. I have moved some of my kit in there but can move that around and paint the floor in sections without too much bother. I've fitted my home made steel doors and I'm chuffed to bits with them - they (two barn door style garage doors and one normal size side door) open and close smoothly with an even gap all around, everything fits up nicely and the locks throw nicely with very little play or flex anywhere. I can now look forward to sorting the electrics (normal ring main, 16A and 32A industrial sockets etc.) in the new year (I have a 50A rated SWA cable into the building but not connected at the moment).
To be honest I was getting a bit hacked off with working outside on the patio under spotlights with my welding/mains cables trailing out through the patio door and my portamig etc in the corner of the dining room - I finally have my bench and the basic stuff secure in the new building.
On the cost front - I agreed to split the cost of the flooring guy and the concrete levelling machine with the builder - he put in his labour for free. I know some of you on here would have been more hard nosed than that but it is Christmas!! The floor is now more smooth and level than it would ever be with concrete. Only time will tell on durability. It is repairable though.
Thanks again for the help and advice.
Graham.
(PS. I'm going to be offline now until the new year so have a great Christmas everyone)
Pete.
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That kind of product will last for as lons as a tamped or trowelled finish would Graham - it might chip if you drop heavy stuff on it but then so will concrete. If you had a powerfloated concrete finish though it would be much more durable and smooth as glass. For your purposes I think you will be fine - I trowel-finished my garage floor and then got the dust off and painted it. The paint makes all the difference in keeping dust down and help stop losing small screws, springs etc - also makes it a lot easier to clean up!
