Concrete block shed problem

[plewlandsbob]

Morning guys,
I was moving some stuff, in my firewood store/ general storage shed, this morning and discovered the wall is cracked and there is a 16mm gap , between floor and wall. Joint in pillar, is also split. The shed is approximately 20 x 12 feet . Built about 40 years ago, by my late brother.
The cracks are in storage side of shed , in the long wall. The area in pics is about 8ft long. Cannot see other side as it is full of firewood.
Is there any other repair, other than knocking down and rebuilding?

 

[wyn]

If it's for storage maybe some sort of steel shelving bolted into the wall and floor.
It could form a sort of frame to hold it all together.

Holds it all together and shelves to put stuff on.

 

[Blobber]

It's been up 40 years, rake the cracked joints out and repoint, it will still be up in another 40 years

 

[gaz1]

yours is earthquake damage so has formed cracks where it gave at

the post even if you take it out and re cement it it will still have an hairline crack
use preformed structure fill with cement and it will be the same

so grind out and get the joint recemented is my reference

no point knocking it down as its still solid

 

[plewlandsbob]

A few better pics. Not good to see on pics, but wall has moved and there is about a 5mm step , if you put a straight edge across. Also at bottom of wall you can actually look through crack.

Unfortunately floor is only 50mm, low grade concrete. Not much strength to bolt anything into.
Also higher up it has actually cracked the blocks rather than joint. How would this be repaired?

 

[Onoff]

You can "stitch" cracks by inserting barbed rods in resin. For example:

Crack Stitching | Helical Bars & Grout | Structural Supplies

Our range of Crack Stitching helical bars, kits, grouts and resins from Structural Supplies Online are available throughout the UK.

www.structuralsupplies.co.uk

Yours is down to Mr DIY, non SE building it, long runs with no expansion gaps and some I would guess settlement over the years. Sometimes a downpipe will have eroded the soil under any footings.

I'd clean the joints out and pump a strong sticky mix in. Or even some cheap gun resin.

(You think that's bad you should see mine!)

 

[addjunkie]

You can "stitch" cracks by inserting barbed rods in resin. For example:

Crack Stitching | Helical Bars & Grout | Structural Supplies

Our range of Crack Stitching helical bars, kits, grouts and resins from Structural Supplies Online are available throughout the UK.

www.structuralsupplies.co.uk

Yours is down to Mr DIY, non SE building it, long runs with no expansion gaps and some I would guess settlement over the years. Sometimes a downpipe will have eroded the soil under any footings.

I'd clean the joints out and pump a strong sticky mix in. Or even some cheap gun resin.

(You think that's bad you should see mine!)

i was going to suggest similar, or the cheap way of 25mmx5mm builders galvanised steel bars, in a deep grove and point up with-a strong mix.
In one of my stone barns I dug out 3 foot either side of the big crack and used concrete lintels pointed in, 3 over the height of 10 ft.

 

[Onoff]

I wonder if the weight of firewood pressing against the wall over the years has had an effect?

 

[Onoff]

i was going to suggest similar, or the cheap way of 25mmx5mm builders galvanised steel bars, in a deep grove and point up with-a strong mix.
In one of my stone barns I dug out 3 foot either side of the big crack and used concrete lintels pointed in, 3 over the height of 10 ft.

I'm wondering if going "cheap", you could chase slots across the crack and just resin in say M8 studding?

 

[Smallfry]

^^^^ This, and repoint the courses, pour some sand cement mortar (about 3:1) down between the wall and floor, and maybe something like CT1 in the colour of your choice in the cracks in the blocks. Will see you out most likely, unless you really, really want a rebuild job ?

Assume its not next to a public footpath, or anywhere it could topple onto passers by ?

 

[frank horton]

if ur really worried about it....
look at this for an idea.....
u dont have to buy the kit .....
thin rebar and builders resin for screw anchors will also work....

 

[gaz1]

damp coarse layer as its plastic allows the blocks above to slide off during an earthquake old properties have a bitumen layer that fails

from the damp coarse layer just grind out and repoint the bed in this area the same with the outside

as goes for the cracks where its split the concrete block not much you can do there just grind it out and repoint or take a block out every other layer and fit in a new block

your not suffering subsidence or you gain a higher gap at the top then your dealing with under pinning

 

[jo1010]

As said it's not horrendous so mortar repair is ok.....but are the supporting piers correctly tied into the wall properly? ..and are there enough of them? (Hard to tell from the pics but I'd expect piers at a distance of every 6 or 8 blocks) ...if there is side loading from the stored wood that could also be a factor but anything that's lasted 40year isn't doing too bad anyway.
For piers have a look here...

 

[Onoff]

If there's a lack of pillars you could add some vertical steel columns in. A ball ache digging the pits next to the wall and concreting them in of course...

 

[Onoff]

A case of repair as is or knock down. I'll be going with the later on mine. Cracks like this:

It's a big albeit jerry built stable. The dividing wall actually wobbles. Even so it's got a door frame with a lump of 4x2 holding the asbestos roof up:

Crack you say? My neighbours tree forced the end wall in a couple of years ago:

I'd say yours is looking pretty good eh?

 

[angellonewolf]

those look like thermolite blocks on this last pic thought there for inside walls not out side ?

 

[Onoff]

those look like thermolite blocks on this last pic thought there for inside walls not out side ?

You can use them if rendered over etc.

It was originally a goat shed with a low, like 3' high brick wall along the rear. They just built it up with Celcon or whatever atop the existing wall then did the sides and front in the same.

 

[gaz1]

there thermolite breeze blocks knock down and rebuild with concrete

 

[gaz1]

You can use them if rendered over etc.

It was originally a goat shed with a low, like 3' high brick wall along the rear. They just built it up with Celcon or whatever atop the existing wall then did the sides and front in the same.

bodging building sites use them just to save pennies instead of using breeze blocks

breeze blocks are for external walls and bodging building sites use these

thermolites are interior walls only used to keep the heat within properties but crap to put floor beams on

 

[jo1010]

there thermolite breeze blocks knock down and rebuild with concrete

....or even the 3.6N clinker blocks - a bit easier to work with....