brightspark
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dont exaggerateI’m not an electrician, it took me 2 minutes to change
dont exaggerateI’m not an electrician, it took me 2 minutes to change
Interesting - I thought messing about with consumer units was a bit no-no for us non-sparks but if it’s easy to do then I can give it a shotI’m not an electrician, it took me 2 minutes to change
yea there takin the p...ss at that price thoughIs this what I need
16A Single Pole 10kA C Curve MCB
Protection of circuits against short circuits and overload currentwww.cef.co.uk
eBay is slightly cheaper @ £6.26 each but that also includes postageyea there takin the p...ss at that price though
I‘ve found electrical retailers like CEF Rexel etc very expensive if you don’t have a trade account, I try to get components from Screwfix, don’t think they sell Hager breakers though, or from an online electrical retailer, but sometimes just have to bite the bullet and get ripped off.yea there takin the p...ss at that price though
Agree on Screwfix but yes they don't seem to sell Hager, so just went with the eBay option. It's not just the product prices that you get stung with by places like CEF, it's the postage as well for small items... £5.99 or something.I‘ve found electrical retailers like CEF Rexel etc very expensive if you don’t have a trade account, I try to get components from Screwfix, don’t think they sell Hager breakers though, or from an online electrical retailer, but sometimes just have to bite the bullet and get ripped off.
Will do - I'll probably get stuck and end up posting back on here anyway. New breakers are arriving in a few days.If you do change the mcb yourself, let us know how it goes as I have a hager consumer unit and I need to do the same thing since my welder trips the b type 16amp mcb. I am tempted to do it myself.
Great advice thanks - I didn’t actually choose the board but one I’ll be requesting in the future should I need new works done when I move eventually.If you think you are safe to do it.
Turn off the supply first!
Then
That type of consumer unit you will need to unclip it from the din rail. If you back the bottom screw right off til it starts to go tight you can put a small - screwdriver in and unlock the din clamp without removing the bus bar. If you do the same with the bottom screw in the new MCB it will clip back in the same. You cannot miss the bus bar with these as they have a plastic cover over the back of the cage clamps to stop this happening. Give it a tighten up as well as the outgoing cable. Give it a pull and a wiggle to make sure it's tight.
Switch back on!
I fit a lot of Hager and they are one of the best boards about! They have also made very little change to their layout in the last 20 or so years meaning most of their gear can be used in older con units too!
Good choice of board imho!
Sy
I had a go today at taking out my type B MCB and it was straight forward - I did have to slacken the DIN rail to get at the rear clip though but didn't need to lower the busbar. I've not actually replaced it yet as I'm still waiting on my new MCB's, however I might not need them now as per my previous post.If you do change the mcb yourself, let us know how it goes as I have a hager consumer unit and I need to do the same thing since my welder trips the b type 16amp mcb. I am tempted to do it myself.
Thanks Sy - no I didn’t get any certificates. This was my first time ever having electrical work done and prior to this had next to no knowledge on the subject. One positive is I’ve learnt a lot from his mistakes.Having found what you have I would definitely be checking all the other terminations to make sure they are terminated properly and tight!
That earth missing from the socket should have been picked up when he tested the install! Did you receive an electrical installation certificate and a building control notification?
I wouldn't be using that electrician again either!
Sy