- Thread starter Sliks
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Thanks for that. I had no idea what it was. In certain sections it was stuck on real good, others it was much easier to remove. I was actually impressed by how well it was adhered. I started to think I might have missed a couple of decades of coating advancements
That's a crack in the OEM coating, it's no longer there.
Although in this picture the layer in the base metal side is thin I did see examples where the layers either side of the red oxide primer looked very similar in composition leading me to suspect the same coating had been used either side of the red oxide primer.
Misterg
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Indeed so - coating vanished a very long time ago!
Get the wire brush out. Use a flat blade screw driver or a scraper. Get rid of all the loose stuff. Then slap on Jotun 90 or similar.
barracuda816
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Bit late for now, and I don’t know exactly what the use case is (is it something you are just doing up to get a few more years from or something you want to keep nice for a long time) but hammerite is one of my last options for painting metal, any 2k epoxy would give much better protection. (An epoxy mastic would be ideal for that part). After derusting, say with citric or phosphoric acid, or electrolysis. I would not recomend any of the rust encapsulators. I have tried many and think of them as snake oil / a bit of a bodge.
Be careful with shutz, it can just trap moisture and speed up the rusting process, and it’s hard to see until too late.
I think a few coats of an epoxy mastic followed by either a good 2k topcoat of if you want the stone chip effect or if it’s a high impact area then upol raptor liner or a cheaper overpaintable stone chip followed by a 2k topcoat. Would be result in a good long lasting repair.
Be careful with shutz, it can just trap moisture and speed up the rusting process, and it’s hard to see until too late.
I think a few coats of an epoxy mastic followed by either a good 2k topcoat of if you want the stone chip effect or if it’s a high impact area then upol raptor liner or a cheaper overpaintable stone chip followed by a 2k topcoat. Would be result in a good long lasting repair.
I really understand you now. Now it's done I hope I do have some form of protection but it's probably no better then just waxoyl, meaning it's probably just as temporary. The Owatrol is ok but not a permanent solution when exposed. The hammerite is very soft in this environment, the schutz film thickness is not all that. I hope it's better when dried but I think they stole pictures off raptor liner. I've ended up with a gate at the bottom of my car. Lol
steveo3002
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does your shutz not soften/pickle the hammerite
agree that jotun would do a much better job
agree that jotun would do a much better job
marlinspike
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Wire brush then a day in citric acid mix would have been my route, wire brush again, then epoxy primer with a brush. I can see why you thought it was a coating as some products like that do come off in sheets once moisture and rust gets under them.
Not sure about the compatibility. Is it likely to cause a complete failure of the 2 coats of hammerite and subsequently itself?
I
steveo3002
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thats what im guessing would happen , might be wrong
I'll keep an eye on it and if for some reason the schutz reveals the hammerite in some spot I'll check for signs of deterioration.
steveo3002
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my guess is it does this-
