Clarkson MT2 Collet chuck removal

[Rannsachair]

Not sure if I am being a total idiot but I am struggling to remove the collet chuck from my Tom Senior Mill. It looks the same setup I have on my Centec.

I assume same method of removal: slacken the draw bar, ensure the quill is locked and hit the top of the draw bar with a copper mallet as you rotate the chuck and pops out.

No luck on the Tom Senior, though no idea how long ago it was last removed.

I have tried spraying release oil into the quill after removing the draw bar for the last few nights and retrying the removal method. No luck, should add my right arm has limited strength when above shoulder height post nerve damage from surgery, though have tried a heavy mallet. I am getting release oil dripping through out of the chuck.

Any other suggestions?

 

[roofman]

Does it have a solid quill or are there any sight slots in it when fully extended out?

 

[Richiew]

Hit it harder. Fizzy had the same problem with a Clarkson holder. There is a thread on here about it. I bought the mill off him and experienced the same. I don't use the Clarkson now.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Wedges driven in between the Chuck and machine body, it's how I remove the Chuck on the pillar drill when needed.

You're welcome to borrow them if you want? Grayson had them and also used them to make a pattern so that he could fab his own - he did posts about his.

 

[Rannsachair]

Does it have a solid quill or are there any sight slots in it when fully extended out?

There is one slot or hole just visible at full extension:

other side is the rack:

 

[Rannsachair]

Hit it harder. Fizzy had the same problem with a Clarkson holder. There is a thread on here about it. I bought the mill off him and experienced the same. I don't use the Clarkson now.

Was worried I may damage the bearings, though may well have to resort to that.

 

[Rannsachair]

Wedges driven in between the Chuck and machine body, it's how I remove the Chuck on the pillar drill when needed.

You're welcome to borrow them if you want? Grayson had them and also used them to make a pattern so that he could fab his own - he did posts about his.

Thanks John, will have a look at what wedges I have first.

 

[roofman]

I have used a ball joint splitter before today for the same sort of problem

 

[Rannsachair]

Wedges driven in between the Chuck and machine body, it's how I remove the Chuck on the pillar drill when needed.

You're welcome to borrow them if you want? Grayson had them and also used them to make a pattern so that he could fab his own - he did posts about his.

Is it one like:

 

[fizzy]

I uses a ball joint splitter or 2 if the gap is pretty big. If not as with my old Marlow I used Jacobs chuck tapers.
It was flipping tight!

 

[fizzy]

 

[fizzy]

 

[fizzy]

Popped out quite easily with the Record vice

 

[Guzrik]

Maybe a radial tap from a heavy mallet helps?

 

[fizzy]

Maybe a radial tap from a heavy mallet helps?

I often use a ball joint fork type separator if it fits. Then a tap with a mallet. But not always room to get it in the gap.

 

[Agroshield]

As the others have said, if you get too enthusiastic with percussive methods, the bearings may be damaged. At the least, check cost/availability of replacements and use that result to guide your next action.

If you have them to hand, you could try warming the qull with it fully extended with a hair dryer and then spraying the chuck with pipe freezer spray or air-in-a-can upside down (the can that is, not you standing on your head).

You know it well, but probably the previous owner has tightened the drawbar too much. Morse tapers only need to be snugged - the shaft on the spanner perhaps no longer than the span of your hand.

As a last resort, and I hope it is not needed, dismantle the quill with the chuck intact. Then you can hold the inner quill and persist on the chuck without any force going into the bearings.

 

[RichardM]

From what I have read they get stuck occasionally, removal is supposedly self ejecting drawbar or hitting with hammer with quill locked. Maybe try a steel hammer with a bit of brass over the top of the drawbar to give it a bit more "shock".

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Is it one like

No Tom, they're a pair which you 'tap' in from either side. Here are pics I sent to Grayson to assess suitability for his job.

Happy to post them down to you if you think they'll help.

 

[AlexBrown_1]

It might not be the right thing to do but I've threaded my drawbar all the way in, then unthreaded just a bit then a Sash clamp on one side against the mill body until its tight and then tapped the other side with a hammer.
That was after I demolished a cheap wooden mallet trying to get something out so I suppose it depends on your level of desperation!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I sent to Grayson

Grayson??? Who's he? Should of course be @Gragson . Apologies to Cliff.....