Clarke Metal Bandsaw

[Gizmo.Y]

Morning guys. I have use of this clarke metal bandsaw.

It doesn't cut straight...I've never played with a Bandsaw before, am i doing things wrong? It also takes an absolute age to cut anything. The blade feels really sharp, but it took about 10-15 minutes to get through the tube as pictured (Not all the way through). is that right? seems a bit long to me.

Any Tips?

 

[WorkshopChris]

Have a look at this post.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/bandsaw-help-blade-wont-cut-square.64080/#post-820190

have a look at the pdf i posted in post 5.

 

[ukracer]

others on here will have Clarke machines. So they will be along shortly. there are also set up.guides on here if you do a search. I have a SIP 12 inch and when it's set up so the blade looks vertical it cuts inwards towards the vice. I have to have it so it looks wrong for it to cut level.

 

[WorkshopChris]

Have you got a good amount of tension on the blade and does it ever slip on the drive wheel. that cut shouldn't take more than a few min's max.

 

[whm_fab]

with a bit of tuning/fettling, these saws can cut really quite accurately. as others have said read through the PDF thats going around, and go from there.
if you dont know the life of the blade, that would be my first port of call for sure. even a worn blade will feel sharp to the touch - a worn blade will cut well off square and take ages to cut.
make sure you are using the right TPI for your application, use water soluble cutting fluid and use bi-metal blades.
for a comparison, mine will go through a 42MM OD 1.6mm wall stainless tube in about 20 seconds.
i can cut 2mm ring off the end of a tube, thats how accurate they can be with a bit of time spent!

 

[Richiew]

This video really helped me get my bandsaw cutting square.

The biggest factor I found was the blade guides which are bearings on an offset mount. Once I had them them adjusted it was easy. Prior to that I spent ages adjusting the large bolt behind the guides and adjusting the cast assemblies at both ends without any joy.

 

[Turbo]

All good advice so far, if you go back to basics and follow that PDF from the start you should get it cutting square. Here's the direct link.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...de_adjustment_and_tracking_-_rev-1-pdf.84325/

Something to do before setting it up is to check the blade guide bearings and replace then if they are worn or sticking.

Also check that the side bearings are running on the flat part of the blade, not the wavy part. If the bearing runs on the wavy part it blunts one side of the blade and it cuts off square.

As for blades, a lot of members including me use the M42 blades from Tuff Saws.
http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/

 

[Screwdriver]

I can't rate this chap highly enough. I'm sure everyone on here is familiar with Jimmy Diresta but just in case...

The whole series of tips is really, really useful too.

Screwd.

 

[Richard.]

I think there is plenty of info there on how to set it up to cut true so I need no comment.
I own one of these saws as you've seen and I find it to be one of the most brilliant tools I've ever owned. It just cuts so well and makes my fit ups and welding life sooooooooo much nicer but it wasn't without its challanges when it came down to setting her up.
The videos you have seen above mention on the rockers for adjustment but the pinch rollers are very important too. If one end is pinched tighter than the other it also can cause run off which I found out. They need even pressure and they need to be just nicely in contact with the blade not squeezing it.
Now regards to speed yes 10 mins is rather excessive for that tube
The speed is really down to 3 things. Teeth per inch, down pressure and cutting speed. If you want it to fly through that tube it will if you put a course blade on , apply some down pressure and speed it up. But this can cause more problems and thinner wall is better cut with a finer blade or you'll throw it or snap it so you need to play to find your ideal. Those saws will cut as true and as quick as you could want once you get to play and learn about them. I'd never go abrasive chop saw again now.

 

[Gizmo.Y]

Thanks for the Input guys - Alot to read through and hopefully get me on my way to set this up.

 

[whm_fab]

heres an example of mine i took, there is less that .2mm thickness difference around the ring i cut off. thats pretty good for a cheap bandsaw !
the only thing ive had go on me alot quicker than i thought, was the bearing for the top band wheel seized up, anyone else have this?
you should really get setup with a cheap diy lubrication/cooling system, makes the blade last so much longer, and the cuts cleaner and faster, as you can use more pressure without fear of burning the teeth tips

 

[Richard.]

heres an example of mine i took, there is less that .2mm thickness difference around the ring i cut off. thats pretty good for a cheap bandsaw !
the only thing ive had go on me alot quicker than i thought, was the bearing for the top band wheel seized up, anyone else have this?
you should really get setup with a cheap diy lubrication/cooling system, makes the blade last so much longer, and the cuts cleaner and faster, as you can use more pressure without fear of burning the teeth tips

Got mine cutting to within 0.1 so nrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

[Screwdriver]

I picked this one up cheap as chips ages ago. Then the Bridgeport got in the way.

It runs if you bypass the switch but needs re-engineering because I want the vertical feature to work perfectly with a decent bed.

At the moment, it will cut easily within 0.01 (of a metre).

S.

 

[Richard.]

I picked this one up cheap as chips ages ago. Then the Bridgeport got in the way.

It runs if you bypass the switch but needs re-engineering because I want the vertical feature to work perfectly with a decent bed.

At the moment, it will cut easily within 0.01 (of a metre).

S.

Do away with the flimsy legs and tin folded motor plate and they are vastly improved just from those 2 mods.

 

[Screwdriver]

Do away with the flimsy legs and tin folded motor plate and they are vastly improved just from those 2 mods.

Yes it needs some angle iron replacement. I won't have to take them off though, one more move and they'll fall off. The rest of the machine looks pretty damned good to me. The castings deserve a lot better than the flimsy tat that's been tacked on.

 

[Richard.]

Yes it needs some angle iron replacement. I won't have to take them off though, one more move and they'll fall off. The rest of the machine looks pretty damned good to me. The castings deserve a lot better than the flimsy tat that's been tacked on.

Yes the saw base, bow are very substantial.
The Spring on the back ain't worth a %#*# and a more controlled way of using down pressure makes all the difference. A suds system is also a good mod. I get loads of cuts before the teeth go dull since I started cutting wet.