Clarke 150TE, my min/max switch makes no difference

[peterd51]

Hi,

these meters also generally have a common, or ground, and two other sockets for either voltage or current.

Is it possible you had the lead in the wrong socket?

It's an odd one, certainly.

Unfortunately your picture didn't come up in the earlier reply.

Regards
Peter

 

[Luke]

Try clicking it as a link, it didn't show up for me either Picture

edit: nope, that doesn't work either, try the product page?

 

[monsterer]

Try this:

Can you see that one?

 

[Wozzaaah]

Looking at it, I think you should have had the black lead in the COM socket, the red in the middle one and the knob set to 200V DC which is 2 settings clockwise from what that pic is showing.

 

[monsterer]

Looking at it, I think you should have had the black lead in the COM socket, the red in the middle one and the knob set to 200V DC which is 2 settings clockwise from what that pic is showing.

I had the black lead in com, and tried both the fused and unfused circuits, by plugging the red lead into both red sockets. It didn't like being in the left socket and went pop.

I set the V to 20 as thats around the right order of magnitude for the welder...

 

[Luke]

The left socket is for current readings (low resistance), regardless of the settings on the meter, it's still low resistance. that's why the wires melted.

 

[monsterer]

The left socket is for current readings (low resistance), regardless of the settings on the meter, it's still low resistance. that's why the wires melted.

Ahhh, right. So despite me having selected V, it still went wrong because the left socket is for current?

That makes sense.

Doesn't explain why i wasn't able to get a stable V reading out of the right socket though...

 

[storm monkey]

I'd guess the 20 setting is for pd up to 20v. If the voltage were above this, you'd get the -1 value. Thats how mine works anyway.

Phil

 

[monsterer]

I'd guess the 20 setting is for pd up to 20v. If the voltage were above this, you'd get the -1 value. Thats how mine works anyway.

Phil

Doh! Ok, perhaps i am, in fact, an idiot. I'd assumed that 20 meant it was in the right order of magnitude - i'd always wondered why it didn't say 10 instead of 20!

Ok. Lession learned. I'll try again tonight!

 

[peterd51]

Hi,

don't worry, it's another of those things that if you've never been shown it's difficult to pick up. The problem is it looks easy unless you know so it does catch people out...

While on this subject, when taking measurements it's always a good idea to start on the maximum setting (500v AC on that meter) and work down from there. So you'd try the two AC settings first, then 500V DC and then wind down through the DC voltages until you see a reading.

Regards
Peter

 

[monsterer]

Hi,

don't worry, it's another of those things that if you've never been shown it's difficult to pick up. The problem is it looks easy unless you know so it does catch people out...

While on this subject, when taking measurements it's always a good idea to start on the maximum setting (500v AC on that meter) and work down from there. So you'd try the two AC settings first, then 500V DC and then wind down through the DC voltages until you see a reading.

Regards
Peter

Thanks for the advice, peter!

Ok, took some readings:

3, min = 28V
3, max = 33V

Does that sound right for 150A welder?

 

[Wozzaaah]

I would have thought that was about right. Just out of interest, why not list the voltages for all the settings, it will help anyone confused about the power settings order.

 

[shenion]

Thanks for the advice, peter!

Ok, took some readings:

3, min = 28V
3, max = 33V

Does that sound right for 150A welder?

30A is about 16V
150A is about 23V

But that is RMS value operating under load. The Clarke has a filter cap across the bridge so wit no load, it will read the peak rectified voltage.

The RMS (average or effective) value will be about 70.7% of the peak value. So yours are about right.

 

[monsterer]

I didn't write down all the readings but the power does go 1 min, 1 max, 2 min, 2 max, 3 min, 3 max.

...a 150A welder ought to be able to penetrate right through 3mm sheet, right? I must be doing something wrong...

 

[shenion]

3mm is right at the limit of 150A. Should do full penetration with just a small gap.

I doubt laying a bead on a 3mm sheet would show full penetration though.

The Miller calculator shows 140-150A for 3.2mm steel and recommends 0.035 or 0.045 wire (0.9/1.1mm).

I would also use 0.9mm or 1.1mm wire, I find 0.8 comes up a bit short trying to get more than 130A out of it.

 

[Wozzaaah]

I've only skipped through the thread again but I can't see any mention of wire size. Are you using 0.6 or 0.8mm? For 3mm steel ideally you should be using 0.8.

Edit; Shenion beat me to it sort of, hobby migs are limited to 0.6 or 0.8 wire as a rule, you can get feed rollers which can handle larger diameters but you don't see many (if any) small spools of anything bigger than 0.8mm here unless it's gasless.

 

[monsterer]

I've only skipped through the thread again but I can't see any mention of wire size. Are you using 0.6 or 0.8mm? For 3mm steel ideally you should be using 0.8.

Ahhh, that'll be it - i'm using .6mm wire. I didn't realise that had such an impact... Is that due to its ability to carry the current?

 

[shenion]

Yeah, you are way over what 0.6mm wire can do effectively. I bet the wire was flying out the gun

I have 0.6, 0.8 and 0.9 wire. I will not replace the 0.8 when it runs out. I find 0.6 and 0.9 give me the range I need.

 

[storm monkey]

From memory, my 151TE came with 0.6 wire, but 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm contact tips. The rollers flip for 0.6 and 0.8, but can't remember what you do for 1mm. Might have to make some rollers if I ever need to go that big.

Phil

 

[peterd51]

Hi,

The 150TE is rated to 6mm.

Regards
Peter