Churchill SL15A deep socket?

[Barking Mat]

I was wondering about sprocket nuts. I had a few butchered sockets, mostly with bits of fork tube welded into them.
Shovelheads have 1-7/8" sprocket nut.

Then I remembered using a butchered socket to do up jag irs outputs shaft nuts.
I had a look in a jag manual and special tool SL 15 A is shown.

I never used SL15A on sprocket nuts as it's been in one of the junk socket boxes
and they only get looked in when a socket is needed to make something.

You mean like this;-)
View attachment 184100

That square socket is for slackening thé brake cams on vehicles before removing brake drums. Old vehicles in my expériences.

 

[stevethegrease]

I had to make up something similar to get the gearbox sprocket of a Harley - the long clutch shaft neccesitates an extremely deep socket.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

That square socket is for slackening thé brake cams on vehicles before removing brake drums. Old vehicles in my expériences.

Trailer brakes are like that. Mine are Knott-Avonride and have a 17mm hex on the back. Easiest adjustment mechanism.

 

[Jack_K]

Is it the same as an 18G586 "Final drive gear nut spanner" from a mini service tools manual.

 

[Tornado220M]

Is it the same as an 18G586 "Final drive gear nut spanner" from a mini service tools manual.

No it's not the same as that one, it is similar but the 18G586 is 1-1/2" AF and this one is 1-7/8" AF

 

[Popcorn]

Metro Ball joint Socket

 

[Tornado220M]

Metro Ball joint Socket

No that one is 1-13/16"

 

[Tornado220M]

It's 1-7/8" according to Mitutoyo.

My mini automatic course was Gary, the old bloke in the factors, telling me if I changed the oil the box would slip.
So knowing Gary was full of **** I changed the oil, seems Gary wasn't full of ****.
On cheap cars the only way to go was convert to manual.

Why ? I am curious as to why you cannot change the oil, as I have done this literally thousands of times without any issues, there is a correct method to get the oil level correct and low oil can permit the clutch packs to fail to fully operate and thus slip... but I know of no other reason why and would be very interested in your response please

 

[Popcorn]

No that one is 1-13/16"

Yeah should have read the full title of the thread SL15A isn't a BL/Rover number

 

[graffian]

Why ? I am curious as to why you cannot change the oil, as I have done this literally thousands of times without any issues, there is a correct method to get the oil level correct and low oil can permit the clutch packs to fail to fully operate and thus slip... but I know of no other reason why and would be very interested in your response please

I never bother stripping one, I got a price on a rebuild kit first time one went, it wasn't financially viable to rebuild it.
There was a market for cheap autos but every other person in england wanted to buy a mini on friday afternoon.

Lot's of years since I had any mins or metros, I thought metro ball joints[swivels] were the same size as minis?
I guess they may have beefed them up. I bought written off metros that had been curbed and the top swivel had snapped.

 

[Jack_K]

I have an automatic mini transmission with a major failure, apparently most likely the gear train. I am yet to pull it apart to find out, I just put in another auto mini engine that was simpler to fix for now.

 

[Tornado220M]

Yeah should have read the full title of the thread SL15A isn't a BL/Rover number

Oh yay of little faith, The part number is 18G1095 and is identical to the SL15A

 

[Tornado220M]

I have an automatic mini transmission with a major failure, apparently most likely the gear train. I am yet to pull it apart to find out, I just put in another auto mini engine that was simpler to fix for now.

Major failure ? if it has any forward or any reverse the chances of it being the gearset is reduced and the chances that the fault lies in other component/s increases.

 

[Tornado220M]

I changed the oil twice on our mini auto. First time, I put in a better grade (as I thought), because the engine needed an oil change. It ran OK from Stamford to Brighton (via Croydon) on the 50th London-Brighton run, but was trailered home from Croydon, ‘cos it kept losing drive. Easily fixed by removing the oil and replacing with a thicker viscosity. Shall not be changing it again as the mini clubman automatic estate has now been given away.

Clubman estate ? so 1098cc nice torque curve, it would have been from 1968 till 1980 possibly 1981 at a push, I would say you had the earlier or older model within that timescale as thicker oil would have destroyed the later AP2 unit, the earlier AP2 had a larger hole in both clutch packs to release oil on unloading of the clutch, ie changing from top to a lower gear for the T&R clutch pack or from changing from forward to reverse for the forward clutch pack, however the real issue if it were a later unit would have been hardened seals and in all probability it was fubared anyway. The AP1, 2 & 3 transmissions were British innovation at it's best.

 

[Tornado220M]

I never bother stripping one, I got a price on a rebuild kit first time one went, it wasn't financially viable to rebuild it.
There was a market for cheap autos but every other person in england wanted to buy a mini on friday afternoon.

Lot's of years since I had any mins or metros, I thought metro ball joints[swivels] were the same size as minis?
I guess they may have beefed them up. I bought written off metros that had been curbed and the top swivel had snapped.

The mini had a multipiece design that had to be adjusted to fit and work correctly, it was a poor design but the best with what they had at the time. the early MK1 metro had a ball joint assembly based on the mini, but a one piece design you screwed it on and it worked, when it failed you unscrewed it and threw it away replacing it with a new one simples The mk2 (although I do not know the change point) had a larger pin, similar to the Mk1 same thread but bigger pin so not entirely interchangeable but with the correct tools the arm could be reamed out, I still have the last genuine factory reamers for cutting the tapers

 

[Popcorn]

Mk2 metro came out in '86 and had the same ball joints as the mk1............

 

[Tornado220M]

The larger ball joints came out in 1984 the only difference was the taper pin and they were not interchangeable without extra machining, so I think you are getting confused because the later MK1 had the larger pin type which then carried across to the mk2, but mk1 prior to 1984 had the smaller pin which was the same size as the mini pin !

 

[Tornado220M]

Dunno, but it is working OK now it is in Scotland. Worked OK as soon as I changed the oil. That was, of course some time ago.

Have you got a Moke by any chance ?

 

[Popcorn]

When I converted my MK1 1983 MG metro to vented disks I used the whole assembly hubs and everything from a Mk2 1987 metro.
Think you could be getting confused with the later Rover Metro..............

 

[Tornado220M]

When I converted my MK1 1983 MG metro to vented disks I used the whole assembly hubs and everything from a Mk2 1987 metro.
Think you could be getting confused with the later Rover Metro..............

Nope, sorry buddy I have been in this industry specifically these cars for 40 years, I know i am right and you haven't proven me wrong yet

METRO BALLJOINT UP TO 84

This is a single ball joint, completely assembled, with plastic boot, for Metro swivel hubs only up to 1984. If using metro hubs on mini, this is the balljoint to use. It has the same taper as mini.

www.minispares.com

KAD Metro Type Ball Joint (Each)

This is the KAD Metro Type Ball Joint as used on all of our KAD Classic Mini Alloy Front Hub Assemblies. Using the Pre 1984 Metro type ball joint means no fitting shims, no fuss and is fully sealed. Please Note these ball joints will only fit our KAD Alloy Front Hub Assemblies or the Pre-1984 Metro

kentautodevelopments.com

I think you probably bought a ringer