Looking at the diagram R and S2 correspond to R/L1 and S/L2 on the switch. There's another R position on the switch.
You say you have 220V on R/L1 and S/L2? if you don't the switch doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the problem.
One of the line connections comes to the S/L2 through the control board for some reason (is this live torch?) , then what looks like a thermal switch.
It looks as if the switch has four outputs to the transformer, which should be easy to pick out. From the diagram there are another couple of outputs connected together to switch power to the power board.
With a meter on the buzzer range with one probe clipped to R/L1, if you go along the four transformer connections with the other probe for each switch position, you should find a couple where there's a contact.
The same for SL2. The outputs to the board should show connectivity with R/L1 in all except the 0 (off position).
It's a bit hard to describe.
That switch selects four combinations of input tappings on the transformer to give the power setting and also has an off position.
Another way of doing it is to power up the machine and if there's 220V on the input side of the switch, checking for combinations on the output terminals of the switch with 220V. The problem with this is that if the contacts are burned and very high resistance, they'll show 220V on the meter, but can't pass enough current to drive the transformer.
You say you have 220V on R/L1 and S/L2? if you don't the switch doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the problem.
One of the line connections comes to the S/L2 through the control board for some reason (is this live torch?) , then what looks like a thermal switch.
It looks as if the switch has four outputs to the transformer, which should be easy to pick out. From the diagram there are another couple of outputs connected together to switch power to the power board.
With a meter on the buzzer range with one probe clipped to R/L1, if you go along the four transformer connections with the other probe for each switch position, you should find a couple where there's a contact.
The same for SL2. The outputs to the board should show connectivity with R/L1 in all except the 0 (off position).
It's a bit hard to describe.
That switch selects four combinations of input tappings on the transformer to give the power setting and also has an off position.
Another way of doing it is to power up the machine and if there's 220V on the input side of the switch, checking for combinations on the output terminals of the switch with 220V. The problem with this is that if the contacts are burned and very high resistance, they'll show 220V on the meter, but can't pass enough current to drive the transformer.
