- Thread starter NTwoO
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The box section frame might not like 2 tonnes squeezing on it
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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Thx for the tips.
The box section was placed in a vertical position with a double at the top. There is also a double layer steel where the press meets the box section. The Box section is also quite thick guage.
The tip of the slider was something that I've been contemplating. It will definitely improve the press.
The box section was placed in a vertical position with a double at the top. There is also a double layer steel where the press meets the box section. The Box section is also quite thick guage.
The tip of the slider was something that I've been contemplating. It will definitely improve the press.
66-V8
pre-moderated
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I made an apple press with a substantially stronger cross beam than yours yet still managed to bend it with a 2 tonne bottle jack. I'd suggest at the very least, a cpl of triangulation pieces that meet either side of the jack top.
Good luck, anyway.
If in doubt, over-engineer it.
Good luck, anyway.
If in doubt, over-engineer it.
philipcurtis100
Member
- Messages
- 25
good idea
i bought a 5 ton jack at car boot
or a fiver
ill have a go
lol
i bought a 5 ton jack at car boot
or a fiver
ill have a go
lol
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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If it is not meant to fly
Check out my dad's aircraft homebuilt project with GS1200 motor Ready to fly soon!
If it is not meant to fly
Check out my dad's aircraft homebuilt project with GS1200 motor Ready to fly soon!
And several hours later....
Don't post links like that as I'll be wasting soooo much time.... 
MajorPayne
Member
- Messages
- 116
And several hours later....
Yeah I got sucked into that time warp about an hour or so ago, I've just realised the time...
Nice press too! I'm in the market for a some slip rolls, know anyone who makes them
Kind regards,
MajorPayne
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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- 489
As long as you guys enjoyed it! My brother in-law did the ignition system. My old man is building his second plane. The first one was a midget mustang that he started somewhere in the early 70s. All the metal parts were shaped when his gardener fell asleep with a cigarette in his hand. It lit his mattress and burnt down the shed with all the parts in it! All my father had from this was a key chain he made from one of the molten bits of aluminium. This one looks as if it will fly, though.
peterd51
happy to be here!
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- 1,593
Hi,
wheel bearings can be very hard to shift...I've seen guys at work putting 25 tons on one in a press!
Then we hired a 'temp' welder and he had a bearing to change.
He took the races out leaving the shell with the 'centre ridge' and set the MIG up on full power. He just ran a bead along the top of the ridge, full-circle, waited a few seconds and banged the hub on the bench and the shell fell out.
Basically the weld contracts and pulls the shell away from the hub, so easy. I've used this method myself a few times over the last few years and it's always worked. Sometimes the shell needs a bit of tapping with a hammer and chisel but it's /gentle/ tapping rather than great big slogs with a 3 pound hammer for half a day!
Regards
Peter
wheel bearings can be very hard to shift...I've seen guys at work putting 25 tons on one in a press!
Then we hired a 'temp' welder and he had a bearing to change.
He took the races out leaving the shell with the 'centre ridge' and set the MIG up on full power. He just ran a bead along the top of the ridge, full-circle, waited a few seconds and banged the hub on the bench and the shell fell out.
Basically the weld contracts and pulls the shell away from the hub, so easy. I've used this method myself a few times over the last few years and it's always worked. Sometimes the shell needs a bit of tapping with a hammer and chisel but it's /gentle/ tapping rather than great big slogs with a 3 pound hammer for half a day!
Regards
Peter
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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- 489
Wild tip! I stood yesterday with the 3 pound hammer (or the fist as it is called in NL). and spent about 2 hours knocking on the outer race. It moved about 3mm and gave me enough room to fit the old circlip. With that in place I grinded a 74mm disk from 5mm thick steel and used that with the press to press out the remainder of the cup.The press frame is properly knackered from the work. I'll post some pics tonight to show where the press requires improvements. The anvil of the press is shot to pieces.
grandads_shed
Member
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- 457
9.36pm
wheres the pics m8
interesting to see
wheres the pics m8
interesting to see
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
- Messages
- 489
Allrighty, the results of the press doing its best to get the bearing out. Sorry for the late reply, but I had to get the car to the MOT today and was busy last night.
The first photo is with the outer race in place to press out. The metal tube is not pressing on the race outer rim, but on the bearing surface. The contact is thus not plumb.
In the following photo the anvil is shown after the job was completed. Clearly this requires solid I or C beams.
In the following photo you can see the top cross member. It got slightly dished, but the press was pushed to the limit, so it does not even look that bad. This is thus considered strong enough
In the following photo the vertical posts can be seen. These are clearly quite dished and a "dorsal" strengthening will certainly help. They need to stay straight to ensure that the guide of the foot of the jack does not jam.
In the following photo you can see the 5mm steel strip that was placed on the anvil. The dishing of this shows that the forces were considerable.
Here is the tube pressed into the outer race. This did not work and resulted in me hammering away with the 3 pound fist for an hour or 2. The rest in my previous post.
This is the other side of the tube enduring the bottle jack foot.
The inner race on the base of the stub axle was very difficult to remove. Using a 1mm grinder disk I cut quite close to the axle and used the die grinder to tickle through the remainder.
This is the head of a bolt that served as a punch to knock out the outer race. I have a number of these bolts, about 300mm in length and M18 or M20. They are in the back swing arms of some of the Peugeot/Citroen products. The replacement set includes a new bolt and the old one is perfect for knocking out the swing arm bearings. This one is obviously worn in on a wheel bearing as well.
The first photo is with the outer race in place to press out. The metal tube is not pressing on the race outer rim, but on the bearing surface. The contact is thus not plumb.
In the following photo the anvil is shown after the job was completed. Clearly this requires solid I or C beams.
In the following photo you can see the top cross member. It got slightly dished, but the press was pushed to the limit, so it does not even look that bad. This is thus considered strong enough
In the following photo the vertical posts can be seen. These are clearly quite dished and a "dorsal" strengthening will certainly help. They need to stay straight to ensure that the guide of the foot of the jack does not jam.
In the following photo you can see the 5mm steel strip that was placed on the anvil. The dishing of this shows that the forces were considerable.
Here is the tube pressed into the outer race. This did not work and resulted in me hammering away with the 3 pound fist for an hour or 2. The rest in my previous post.
This is the other side of the tube enduring the bottle jack foot.
The inner race on the base of the stub axle was very difficult to remove. Using a 1mm grinder disk I cut quite close to the axle and used the die grinder to tickle through the remainder.
This is the head of a bolt that served as a punch to knock out the outer race. I have a number of these bolts, about 300mm in length and M18 or M20. They are in the back swing arms of some of the Peugeot/Citroen products. The replacement set includes a new bolt and the old one is perfect for knocking out the swing arm bearings. This one is obviously worn in on a wheel bearing as well.
