I've made a Cheapo(tm) fuel swirl pot for my car from an old disposable gas bottle.
The steps I took were:
1. Empty the gas bottle - i did this by jamming a screw driver down the outlet to make sure it was empty. I was still worried enough to stick it in the band saw and leave the garage until it was sawn off
2. Clean up with grinding disc.
2.5 Realise that grinding disc gives a really rough finish and change to flap wheel for the rest of the bottle.
3. Drill holes for fuel hose attachments. Pain in the **** with a hand drill as my pillar drill gave up the ghost a while back and I still haven't got a drill chuch for the mill...
4. The bottom plate is simply some 80x3mm plate that was cut to suitable size and drilled before the welds. Easier to drill the holes before having a bottle welded on.
5. The hose fittings were welded on. The JIC connectors are cheap mild steel -6 connectors from Think Automotive, and the push on ones are 8mm. I cut a joiner in two and used those. I ground the welds back and couldn't spot any holes, but I rewelded over them again just in case.
5. The bottle was tacked in place in three places and then welded on full power to ensure proper penetration and fusion.
6. Paint with halfords matt black paint
If you look at the painted picture, you can see that the weld has been undercut. How would I stop this happening? It's not a structural piece of work obviously, but it'd be nice if it looked "right" next time.
Is it a case of more wire, or less amps? The welder is a Clarke 135TE (130 amps max) with 0.8mm wire and argoshield light.
The steps I took were:
1. Empty the gas bottle - i did this by jamming a screw driver down the outlet to make sure it was empty. I was still worried enough to stick it in the band saw and leave the garage until it was sawn off
2. Clean up with grinding disc.
2.5 Realise that grinding disc gives a really rough finish and change to flap wheel for the rest of the bottle.
3. Drill holes for fuel hose attachments. Pain in the **** with a hand drill as my pillar drill gave up the ghost a while back and I still haven't got a drill chuch for the mill...
4. The bottom plate is simply some 80x3mm plate that was cut to suitable size and drilled before the welds. Easier to drill the holes before having a bottle welded on.
5. The hose fittings were welded on. The JIC connectors are cheap mild steel -6 connectors from Think Automotive, and the push on ones are 8mm. I cut a joiner in two and used those. I ground the welds back and couldn't spot any holes, but I rewelded over them again just in case.
5. The bottle was tacked in place in three places and then welded on full power to ensure proper penetration and fusion.
6. Paint with halfords matt black paint
If you look at the painted picture, you can see that the weld has been undercut. How would I stop this happening? It's not a structural piece of work obviously, but it'd be nice if it looked "right" next time.
Is it a case of more wire, or less amps? The welder is a Clarke 135TE (130 amps max) with 0.8mm wire and argoshield light.