the snooper
getting older by the day
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- Hull UK
yeah that was my thought
- Thread starter Troy Spiewak
- Start date
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
have you measured the voltage from the mig wire / tip and the work clamp, I had a machine that showed the correct voltage at both but wouldn't weld and although the connectors looked great I had a crimped connector that had gone bad inside a new one cured it
Troy Spiewak
New Member
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- 10
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- Navarre, Fl USA
Not yet but I did find something while looking at the torch connection to the feed system. I noticed it was slightly loose in the clamp that is connected to the output. There apears to be some scorch marks I missed and a build up flaky metal. Im going to figure out how this comes apart, clean it up and go from there.
the snooper
getting older by the day
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- Hull UK
sounds like a plan
The big capacitor bank has a bleed resistor across it and should discharge very quickly. That's assuming the bleed resistor isn't open circuit and the connections are made. Check with a meter on the DC volts range, say 250V to be sure. You should be able to measure across the two big straps which parallel the capacitors.
Have a general look round and unmake and remake plug in connectors, make sure screw block type connectors are tight and look for anything burned.
I'd check that you are getting an AC voltage in the primary of the big transformer. It should be 220V or so and vary as you alter the heat selector control.
I find a couple of things about the diagram odd. There's a potentiometer for heat selection to the control board, but I don't see a connection from the control board to the main transformer so it isn't clear how the power is varied. There are all sorts of other things going to the control board such as the thermal trip, the wire feed motor, the gas solenoid valve and so on.
I think the reason you only have two diodes rather than a bridge of four is that the secondary is centre tapped.
Have a general look round and unmake and remake plug in connectors, make sure screw block type connectors are tight and look for anything burned.
I'd check that you are getting an AC voltage in the primary of the big transformer. It should be 220V or so and vary as you alter the heat selector control.
I find a couple of things about the diagram odd. There's a potentiometer for heat selection to the control board, but I don't see a connection from the control board to the main transformer so it isn't clear how the power is varied. There are all sorts of other things going to the control board such as the thermal trip, the wire feed motor, the gas solenoid valve and so on.
I think the reason you only have two diodes rather than a bridge of four is that the secondary is centre tapped.
Troy Spiewak
New Member
- Messages
- 10
- Location
- Navarre, Fl USA
Success! It ended being the connection between the torch and the clamp that holds it to the machine/makes the welding connection. Cleaned up the torch and and filed down what looked like clumped up copper from it probably arcing to the block and also cleaned up the block. As you can see from the picture too the inner sleeve is extended and was loose with an area rubbed away by the wire feed drive wheel. That's all corrected now as well. I think while under the truck I may have tugged it or something causing an already failing connection to fully fail.
Thanks for your help! Glad it was an easy fi and also learned a-lot about this machine in the process.
Speedy
Thanks for your help! Glad it was an easy fi and also learned a-lot about this machine in the process.
Speedy
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
great stuff a free fix, happy welding
