Here is the oven cable, no way it's 6mm.
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shouldnt have a 40a breaker on a 2.5mm radial or a 2.5mm ring for that matter so whoever bodged it did a proper job. Maybe it was the same person who wired our place.
id just take the coving off knock holes either side of the beams and stitch the wiring through and under board and skim i do the wiring for a living and its less mess work and quicker for me as u say its another optionPull down the ceiling and cornice
put your wiring in, with loops for your lights as required, re plasterboard
Job done. Properly and for minimum cost and minimum arsing about
Ok here is another question, I want to run a new cable in from the consumer unit to service a 5 burner induction hob and two ovens, what size of cable should I use and what size/type of breaker?
id just take the coving off knock holes either side of the beams and stitch the wiring through and under board and skim i do the wiring for a living and its less mess work and quicker for me as u say its another option
that is not the case. if the ovens are 16 amp and covered by a 30 amp breaker all on one circuit the manufacturers warranty is void if the feed is over rated. seen it happen a few times just today ive fitted a 16 amp oven to a cooker supply wired in 6.0mm and downrated the breaker to 16 ampWithout any information as to cable length, applicable de-rating factors etc I would hazard a guess at a 10mm T&E for the hob and 4mm for the ovens. But these are pure guesses where I'm erring on the side of caution.
With the correct information and proper calculations it may transpire that a 4mm for the hob and 1.5 for each oven is sufficient.
My personal preference would be to split them up over multiple circuits, probably one circuit for hob and one circuit for the two ovens. But there is nothing in the regulations preventing all three being on one circuit.
I agree but some people can’t handle not being able to see the joistsid just take the coving off knock holes either side of the beams and stitch the wiring through and under board and skim i do the wiring for a living and its less mess work and quicker for me as u say its another option
that is true. i poke a few holes with a thin screwdriver find the 1st joist then they are generally spaced at 16 inch centers then mark out the lighting positions poke in the screwdriver round with a hammer and if they all miss core the holes out im doing it all the time so practice makes perfect . as you say if ceiling is taken down it makes it easier on the measuring frontI agree but some people can’t handle not being able to see the joists
that is not the case. if the ovens are 16 amp and covered by a 30 amp breaker all on one circuit the manufacturers warranty is void if the feed is over rated. seen it happen a few times just today ive fitted a 16 amp oven to a cooker supply wired in 6.0mm and downrated the breaker to 16 amp
? current carrying capacity of a 2.5mm twin and earth cable/ installation method/ grouping factor. Wouldn't be normal to run a 2.5mm radial in twin and earth and protect with a 40A MCB. 2.5mm ring should be protected wtih a 32A device or smaller?How have you confirmed the cable size in question before slandering the person who installed it?
? current carrying capacity of a 2.5mm twin and earth cable/ installation method/ grouping factor. Wouldn't be normal to run a 2.5mm radial in twin and earth and protect with a 40A MCB. 2.5mm ring should be protected wtih a 32A device or smaller?
dont talk rubbish .since when have the majority of appliances have protection built within this post isnt even worth discussing end off . the guy was wanting constructive advice not a load of crap posts thats irelevant . your best go on the electrical forum and discuss it there with all the others that have nothing better to doThe ovens aren't protected by the circuit breaker. The MCB is installed to protect the cable, not the appliance.
Any protection required for the appliance should be provided within the appliance by the appliance manufacturer.
Right enough could be 6mm2 or maybe a 4mm2, took it that Race Diagnostic reconed it wasn't but its hard to tell from a picture.I mean, how have you confirmed that the cable which has been installed is 2.5mm?
From the picture that could easily be 6mm.
My oven runs off a 13amp socket. It's the electric hob that needs a high current supply which surprised me. That choice of breaker is pretty scary thoughThis is the existing oven breaker. But no way it has a high current cable, looks like a 13 amp circuit cable.
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Thanks for that, its a 5 burner neff we have, so will go for 10mm.RE induction hob, I have a 5 ring Neff one. Sparky had fitted a 6mm cable under the screed/underfloor heating etc to go to the island where the hob is. When it arrived it said it needed 10mm cable as all rings could go to max power of their own accord so diversity doesn't apply. Fortunately you can reprogram it to restrict peak power so the 6mm was OK - would have been a very large problem otherwise as the hole was cut in the worktop, and the floor was laid!
So check the spec on your proposed hob, and/or put a 10mm cable in.
JIm