really ,Use stainless 308L or 312L rods
Not saying this is 100% the way to do it properly with max strength but i just know it works for me and what i need,
I followed this guide
used a DIY foundry made with a small fan and some coal to heat up cast to about 300-400 degrees and made sure with a laser thermometer.
then did small welds along with the 6013 not letting it drop below 300 and when it did put back in foundry.
i then put it in sand and let it cool slowly overnight.
May work for you may not but my situation the cast was going to tip if it wasnt useful and i had 6013 handy and didn't want to spend £££ on some fancy rods to maybe still have it crack due to user incompetence.
I made it to 6:08 ,,, if my work looked like that i would take up brick laying , no way on the face of this earth could i look some one in the eye while giving them back a job that looks like its joined with pre owned bubble gum , let alone charge for it ....... personally speaking , I will keep paying for the rods .
I would far rather say no than turn out work like that.
Stainless steel rods have nickel in them so they workreally ,
ive always bought the cast iron rods ,, more nickle in them from memory , but its pre heat , and post heat thats the trick
Quite tricky and gouged it a bit with a buzz box AC welder.
Stainless steel rods have nickel in them so they work
Pre heat the piece ,weld it ,pin it to reduce the stress ,heat it again , slowly cool
It's not a true science .
Surely I'll never trust my or someone else life to a welded cast iron piece .
Welding cast iron can be done to save things which if fail don't cause someone to get hurt or killed .
Engine blocks,bench vises , stoves things on those lines .
308L-309L-312L-316L-7018 can be used to weld cast iron , stainless works better
@spencer 427Perhaps Spencer or Pressbrake?