- Thread starter Gizmo.Y
- Start date
Its one of those cars where the wheels are are silly angles.
He shortened them before himself i beleive, lasted for a year or so until they failed. But i've seen said arm. They cut and just welded around the cut, No V-ing or anything. I was going to MIG them, with a deep V But would rather TIG.
He shortened them before himself i beleive, lasted for a year or so until they failed. But i've seen said arm. They cut and just welded around the cut, No V-ing or anything. I was going to MIG them, with a deep V But would rather TIG.
A Grind test this morning confirmed they are 100% Cast Iron.
Therefore, i am still in need of the correct filler rods. has anyone got a pack and willing to sell me some out of their stash?
I can get some from the states, Per rod (roughly about £1.20 a rod) but obviously would take a few weeks to get here. Ideally need to finish the job this week.
Therefore, i am still in need of the correct filler rods. has anyone got a pack and willing to sell me some out of their stash?
I can get some from the states, Per rod (roughly about £1.20 a rod) but obviously would take a few weeks to get here. Ideally need to finish the job this week.
Richard.
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Your not convincing me it's a good idea I'm afraid.
Some pics would be nice to see what you plan to do but with cast iron you've either got to get it reaaaaaaaaaaaally hot through out or as cold as possible. V prepping and getting fired into it with tig could result in failure hopefully before it goes on the motor.
Some pics would be nice to see what you plan to do but with cast iron you've either got to get it reaaaaaaaaaaaally hot through out or as cold as possible. V prepping and getting fired into it with tig could result in failure hopefully before it goes on the motor.
slim_boy_fat
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I Don't know the details. I've seen the MIG welded over the years, with not really any horror stories. I was going to MIG Them myself, but would rather use the correct process with it comes to welding Cast Iron..
His previous ones failed as there was zero prep, the guy had not even V-Prepped the gap. Just butted them up and put a seemingly cold weld around the outside.
My Target Market, means this is going to be a re-occuring request, So i would rather use the better welding process.
His previous ones failed as there was zero prep, the guy had not even V-Prepped the gap. Just butted them up and put a seemingly cold weld around the outside.
My Target Market, means this is going to be a re-occuring request, So i would rather use the better welding process.
Richard.
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- Cambridgeshire
For that job unless you have the ability to get it very very very hot and keep it that way and cool it afterwards very slowly then tig is not the right process.
You will locally heat it too much by multiple runs and it will fail.
I've tig welded cast iron lots of times. It's been 1 run on trivial things like pulleys, stands, motor cases etc etc and it's been one run. I've either heated them right up and welded it very hot if the item was small enough or welded large items that are impractical to heat very cool. Small runs, peen and patience. You must have more understanding of what your doing before attacking such things with guess work
Richard.
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- Cambridgeshire
I think your on the money maker with Ni sticks. I wouldn't touch the job personally but if I had to I'd shallow prep it (enough for 1 run to go just over flush) and run in with mma. I'd allow each short run to cool and peen the welds fully directly after application to stress relief.
