Does anybody know if there are any standards for these now vital parts of the modern day cars. There seems to be so many of them and most makes have different ones. I need a couple for a Suzuki Jimny I want to fit fog lights to but do not want to pay the dealer prices. (I also want to fit a couple of rear door mounted brake lights to my LVD and have bought a couple of Ford Transit ones only to find they each need a connector. Most of the pins in them are the 2.8mm size to so I would like to know if anybody knows a good outlet that sells them too!) That is if they would even supply as I have found them to be hit and miss with what they supply. I have found alibaba in china with a vast catalogue of shapes and sizes but they are bulk buy only. I certainly do not want 500 or so of each!
- Thread starter p0689109
- Start date
Theres a place in Ilkeston, that does all sorts of vehicle wiring stuff.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/
It's an absolute nightmare mate.
All these various manufactures often have specific 'modified' connectors and as the cars get older the manufacturers stop supplying them.
So for instance on my car I needed a new connector for the headlight levelling system. Peugeot no longer supply the loom, the company that made the connector no longer make it. So after loads of hours contacting various electrical connector suppliers I found out it was a standard AMP Junior Power Timer connector.
But not quite................ the original connector has little blocks for location which vary on all the connectors on the car. This is so a similar connector can't get plugged into the wrong thing. This is brilliant in one respect as it's fool proof for putting looms back in cars but the problem is this it's impossible to get the connector anymore! Totally none standard due to the location blocks.
So where does this leave you I can buy a Valeo headlight levelling motor but Valeo can't even tell me what or where to get a connector to fit it. Crazy or what.
Easiest way to get out of the problem is to buy a scrap/breaker loom for the particular electrical area you require.
You can see from the picture enclosed - typically the same connector but Peugeot specific used location blocks to make it fool proof for installation. So that connector due to the block arrangement can only go in the headlight levelling motor.
All these various manufactures often have specific 'modified' connectors and as the cars get older the manufacturers stop supplying them.
So for instance on my car I needed a new connector for the headlight levelling system. Peugeot no longer supply the loom, the company that made the connector no longer make it. So after loads of hours contacting various electrical connector suppliers I found out it was a standard AMP Junior Power Timer connector.
But not quite................ the original connector has little blocks for location which vary on all the connectors on the car. This is so a similar connector can't get plugged into the wrong thing. This is brilliant in one respect as it's fool proof for putting looms back in cars but the problem is this it's impossible to get the connector anymore! Totally none standard due to the location blocks.
So where does this leave you I can buy a Valeo headlight levelling motor but Valeo can't even tell me what or where to get a connector to fit it. Crazy or what.
Easiest way to get out of the problem is to buy a scrap/breaker loom for the particular electrical area you require.
You can see from the picture enclosed - typically the same connector but Peugeot specific used location blocks to make it fool proof for installation. So that connector due to the block arrangement can only go in the headlight levelling motor.
fixerupper
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I generaly resort to Choc Block!!!...jeff
rtcosic
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I have two cardboard orange boxes full of Rover, Mazda and Jagaur wiring loom 'bits' for just that purpose!
On my recently replaced Jagaur S Type I found that as a poverty spec model there were many unused connectors under the bonnet, in the boot etc. When one under bonnet connector corroded badly I found an unused one of the correct type, cut it off and soldered the flying leads to the corroded loom. Cunning or what?
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CRB
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The exact place I found last week.
taxi ray: I had found that site and the connector 6 pin block they sell looks identical shape and pin but overall is a different size. I could buy both male and female components though and get over the problem. I just thought that the car industry as a whole would have agreed a standard for them all to work to make things cheaper and easier for all concerned, like the standardisation on metric thread systems. But obviously they have found a way to sting the general public by having their own designs!
the snooper
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as mentioned earlier cut the wiring from a transit then just use scotch lock connectors to attach to your wiring
500e
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It's not just the plugs & sockets, what about the "crimp tools" much money 
Amp only sell in multi 100 lots if Farnell,RS or one of those don't do what you want forget it.
The site Robot & CRB found has fair prices don't like non tinned connectors though
We use 100s of the AMP locking T connectors & the price is not bad if they are genuine AMP
Amp only sell in multi 100 lots if Farnell,RS or one of those don't do what you want forget it.The site Robot & CRB found has fair prices don't like non tinned connectors though
We use 100s of the AMP locking T connectors & the price is not bad if they are genuine AMP
sparkysy
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Oooh if there's one thing I hate about car wiring it's scotch locks I can't stand them! the amount of times I've seen them cause faults I couldn't count on me fingers toes and me dogs whiskers, I'd rather cut the wires and use crimps and proper crimping tool much nicer!
the snooper
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only because people don't use them correctly, I hate cutting original wiring in half, if im forced I strip a section of insulation wrap new cable round and solder then insulate im not keen on crimps apart from spade connectors and alike where there is no way round it
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the snooper
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guaranteed a good connection with solder and it will last
normspanners
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The only problem with soldering a connection is the solder causes a shear point that is one reason manufacturers dont do it, i had one once that cost a rally,it was on the coil wire spade connectors, the solder had capillered up inside the insulation and broken there, very difficult to find.
I like to use glued heat shrink, wind the wires tight and melt the glue onto it, have done this and did a destruction test on it and the wire broke elswhere than the heat shrink, when they make multi core cable and one core needs rejoining due to it running out or breaking in manufacture, that is how they do it.
Also used if you have a break in a multi wire loom like a rear hatch, bend point, when there are about 15 wires through the loom, if each was reconnected by crimps or soldered then insulated it will be too big and will re break because of lack of space, using the heat shrink it is hardly any larger and still flexible.
I like to use glued heat shrink, wind the wires tight and melt the glue onto it, have done this and did a destruction test on it and the wire broke elswhere than the heat shrink, when they make multi core cable and one core needs rejoining due to it running out or breaking in manufacture, that is how they do it.
Also used if you have a break in a multi wire loom like a rear hatch, bend point, when there are about 15 wires through the loom, if each was reconnected by crimps or soldered then insulated it will be too big and will re break because of lack of space, using the heat shrink it is hardly any larger and still flexible.
