Car immobiliser fun

[premmington]

Could you recommend anyone?

If you were closer - I would do it for you (for beer). We have GSCAN here - which is dealer spec diagnostics for Kia/Hyundai.

 

[JMS1972]

Dumb question does the immobiliser just pull power to the fuel pump?

Can you wire up a switched feed to it? Fused and via a relay obvs....

 

[Kram]

That would be too easy to bypass, its likely to do that aswell as stopping the injectors, which is why its normally built into the ecu.

Had another look. Started first and every time.
The car+key light does not illuminate since the shorting, although it did partially, dimly light up once or twice, which is odd.. may have blown the bulb?
Checked many fuses but none appear blown.
The shorting took out the central locking but that fuse is fine, and interior lights - Im not sure what fuse they are under.

Then I had a look, under bonnect fuse/relay box. The ECU, injector and sensor fuses seemed ok but a little discoloured so swapped them. Wiggled the connectors. After this the problem returned and wont fire.

*A proper pain that. No fuse puller and the fuse cover with the chart is shaped such that you can not put it down and still read it, so holding that and torch in one hand, fun...

Last thing I noticed theres a lot of vibration when its refusing the start. Enough that the whole car shakes. Almost makes me think the main dealer were right looking at the crank position sensor...?

 

[ukracer]

That would be too easy to bypass, its likely to do that aswell as stopping the injectors, which is why its normally built into the ecu.

Had another look. Started first and every time.
The car+key light does not illuminate since the shorting, although it did partially, dimly light up once or twice, which is odd.. may have blown the bulb?
Checked many fuses but none appear blown.
The shorting took out the central locking but that fuse is fine, and interior lights - Im not sure what fuse they are under.

Then I had a look, under bonnect fuse/relay box. The ECU, injector and sensor fuses seemed ok but a little discoloured so swapped them. Wiggled the connectors. After this the problem returned and wont fire.

*A proper pain that. No fuse puller and the fuse cover with the chart is shaped such that you can not put it down and still read it, so holding that and torch in one hand, fun...

Last thing I noticed theres a lot of vibration when its refusing the start. Enough that the whole car shakes. Almost makes me think the main dealer were right looking at the crank position sensor...?

If all else fails replace the ECU and keys perhaps?
But it sounds like corroded contacts from what you have posted.
I am guessing Google will be the easiest to find out about central locking and other lights etc. Might be a seperate fuse .

 

[Ubique]

That would be too easy to bypass, its likely to do that aswell as stopping the injectors, which is why its normally built into the ecu.

Had another look. Started first and every time.
The car+key light does not illuminate since the shorting, although it did partially, dimly light up once or twice, which is odd.. may have blown the bulb?
Checked many fuses but none appear blown.
The shorting took out the central locking but that fuse is fine, and interior lights - Im not sure what fuse they are under.

Then I had a look, under bonnect fuse/relay box. The ECU, injector and sensor fuses seemed ok but a little discoloured so swapped them. Wiggled the connectors. After this the problem returned and wont fire.

*A proper pain that. No fuse puller and the fuse cover with the chart is shaped such that you can not put it down and still read it, so holding that and torch in one hand, fun...

Last thing I noticed theres a lot of vibration when its refusing the start. Enough that the whole car shakes. Almost makes me think the main dealer were right looking at the crank position sensor...?

Dash light dimming is a good indicator of volt drop or water ingress - possibly even a corroded ground point, I wouldn't worry too much about the vibration at this stage - you wouldn't normally have the vehicle cranking for that long and loss of crank/cam signal would usually illuminate the EML not the immobiliser warning light. If the engine won't fire, it's far easier to trace the fault than when intermittent - check volt drop across fuses, at the connector, not the fuse though. Also take a look at the harness where you wiggled it - possible corrosion or pin grip issue.

 

[m_c]

This is the kind of job where you really need diag kit that can read faults in all modules, and provide live data.

Without being able to know if anything is detecting a fault, or see live data to see what is happening or not happening, you're pretty much guessing at the potential problem, and risk creating other faults in the process.