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brightspark
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soluble cutting oil .rocol is the best but theres cheaper stuff
T0rnado69
DIY nut !!
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soluble oil ?
i got 5 litres of multicut from chronos quite a while ago.
and use that on my lathe, bandsaw and will on the mill once i sort stand and tray.
also got some in a bottle i spray on drills when using pillar drill.
dilutes 25 parts water
Edit - beaten to it, coz i type to slow
i got 5 litres of multicut from chronos quite a while ago.
and use that on my lathe, bandsaw and will on the mill once i sort stand and tray.
also got some in a bottle i spray on drills when using pillar drill.
dilutes 25 parts water
Edit - beaten to it, coz i type to slow
Wedg1e
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I use some stuff I blagged from a client's machinists when we were building them a new x-ray bay a few years ago. I think I got 15L, there's still about 14.5L of it left.
It does make the machines bloody claggy, though.
No label on the container but the stuff is green when neat and white when mixed.
Hey, it was free, no gift-horse-mouth-looking going on here
It does make the machines bloody claggy, though.
No label on the container but the stuff is green when neat and white when mixed.
Hey, it was free, no gift-horse-mouth-looking going on here
Most of the places I have worked used stuff by millers. Maybe if you have to buy loads of the stuff it's the cheapest?
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/industrial/emulsifiable-metalworking-fluid.asp
One tip if you ever need to machine graphite use it. Stops the toolroom turning into a black hole
http://www.millersoils.co.uk/industrial/emulsifiable-metalworking-fluid.asp
One tip if you ever need to machine graphite use it. Stops the toolroom turning into a black hole
MattF
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chevy2
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Could have been, they sometimes got a few idiots in to help with cuttingAre you sure that wasn't just due to the occasional dash of blood being added to it?
graffian
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I have used green before the stuff[hysol] I have now, maybe they had stupid Vulcans working there..
chevy2
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The mixture may be a bit weak, ie too much water compared to oil ratio.
The water may evaporate leaving an oil residue, certainly too weak if leaving rust.
Small tank 15ltrs? I have to top up about 3ltrs a week, not quite as bad with larger tank.
You can make your own coolant any oil and a demulsifier such as liquid soap.
Theres semi synthetic cutting oils as well.
633Squadron
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I worked in the oils and lubricants industry for 25 years and 18 of those years involved the formulating, testing, application and support of metalworking oils and soluble cutting fluids for all applications. Depending on where you live, they are variously called 'Suds Oils', 'Mistic' or 'Coolant'. There are many different types - standard high oil content soluble oils for simple jobs, semi-synthetics for high-performance machining and central coolant systems, as well as fully synthetic for grinding applications.
In my time at Shell, I got quite involved in a specialist soluble oil for magnesium alloy machining for BNFL and Cosworth. The magnesium in the metal caused the water to harden up massively via the magnesium forming magnesium hydroxide and reacting with fatty materials in the soluble oil, eventually causing the emulsion to split and separate. We managed to formulate a soluble oil that out-performed the existing Castrol product by a wide margin - the Castrol product separated after a few weeks, whereas our product lasted for several months without separation and the coolant was only changed because of skin irritation issues caused by magnesium hydroxide, it wasn't down to separation.
I could bore you senseless for hours about metalworking fluids, however, feel free to ask any questions relating to metalworking oils of any type and I'll do my best to answer them.
In my time at Shell, I got quite involved in a specialist soluble oil for magnesium alloy machining for BNFL and Cosworth. The magnesium in the metal caused the water to harden up massively via the magnesium forming magnesium hydroxide and reacting with fatty materials in the soluble oil, eventually causing the emulsion to split and separate. We managed to formulate a soluble oil that out-performed the existing Castrol product by a wide margin - the Castrol product separated after a few weeks, whereas our product lasted for several months without separation and the coolant was only changed because of skin irritation issues caused by magnesium hydroxide, it wasn't down to separation.
I could bore you senseless for hours about metalworking fluids, however, feel free to ask any questions relating to metalworking oils of any type and I'll do my best to answer them.
633Squadron
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That is flash rusting and is caused by the pH of the coolant having fallen too low. I assume you are using steel or iron. Iron is passive at around pH 9 and if the pH of the coolant falls below 8.0, then flash rusting can occur (it's actually a form of galvanic corrosion, caused by differences between autensic and martensic structures in the metal surface). I would also check your coolant mix, as the mix ratio might be too low. What machining operation are we talking about here? If rusting is likely to be a major problem, I suggest cleaning the parts with an alkaline cleaner such as Blue Magic or Quest, as these are around pH10 and any residues left behind won't cause rusting. Also consider a de-watering oil that leaves a film of oil behind, such as Shell's Ensis SX or Houghton's Rust Veto 100D.
graffian
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Got any cheap cans of Ensis? I Keep meaning to get a can.
I get rust under my milling vice. I think I mix my suds to strong, everything is oily yet I
pull the vice off and there will be rust under it, it wipes off with a rag.
633Squadron
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I've not worked for Shell for almost 10 years now, as I was made redundant in early 2005. I cleared my remaining sample stock out and took it back to Stanlow for disposal when I left Shell.
Thing with soluble oils is they tend to go off after a few months & have to be replaced. If you are doing a lot of machining by all means use them. However for the home machinist who doesnt use the lathe all the time a straight cutting oil may be better. Some of these are filthy in the extreme like ilocut we used to use at the college, it oxidised quickly & left the whole machine caked in brown crud. I use Crowncut 810 & its good stuff, i machine a lot of stainless steel & the finish is excellent & the machine stays clean as a whistle & never goes rusty. And it lasts for yonks.
