- Thread starter Jack155Q4
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steveo3002
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you always basecoat and clear in the same session...dont sand the base coat
as for filling and painting all in one go , you could yes but the repair will most likley show and sink badly , id at least try to let the primer sit a few hours and tickle it with some 800 wet
as for filling and painting all in one go , you could yes but the repair will most likley show and sink badly , id at least try to let the primer sit a few hours and tickle it with some 800 wet
Cheers Steveo.
I think the aerosol cans suggest waiting a good long time for the paint to set. How long should I leave the filler before the primer goes on?
norsa
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the filler is chemically dried mate so will go off in about 20 minutes ready to shape and prime. then you will need to prime it and give the primer a couple of days to dry (assuming you are using 1k) before flatting then base and clear.
Nick.
Nick.
steveo3002
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usualy you would prime the filler , as it dries the filler sinks into any scratches and marks etc , then once dry you sand it perfectly smooth
if you skip the sanding stage it all sinks in
if you skip the sanding stage it all sinks in
steveo3002
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yes the primer fills all the imperfections , over a couple of days or longer it will shrink back a little
once its done sinking /drying you sand it and it cuts it back to perfectly smooth ready for the paint
sometimes if its rough and your using rattle cans it might take repeated priming sessions to make it really nice
once its done sinking /drying you sand it and it cuts it back to perfectly smooth ready for the paint
sometimes if its rough and your using rattle cans it might take repeated priming sessions to make it really nice
zx9
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Interesting, I did not know you could roller epoxy primer. I am thinking the underside / chassis of my Rangie, I guess those little (3 inch) or so foam rollers sold for gloss paint would do it. Would one or two coats of epoxy and then top coat with black stone chip, cope with the scuffs of a bit of light off road use?
As 2K would harden very quickly will can I then go on with the colour and clear in one session? Is that also why you suggest 2K primer?
steveo3002
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how about we start again
what are you painting , how good do you need it to be and is there a limited budget or not for the job
theres more than one way to skin a cat , so let us know what you are doing and maybe we can help
what are you painting , how good do you need it to be and is there a limited budget or not for the job
theres more than one way to skin a cat , so let us know what you are doing and maybe we can help
Repairing a small section on the arch of an MX5 - about 200mm x 40mm. It was scraped on a wall.
Doesn't need to be a top job.
Reason I am asking about 1 session painting is because I don't get much opportunity to get this car in the garage for non essential work.
I have a can of mixed aerosol paint from the highstreet auto shop and a can of Halfords lacquer. Also, I have primer in a aerosol or I can roll on 2K primer.
Doesn't need to be a top job.
Reason I am asking about 1 session painting is because I don't get much opportunity to get this car in the garage for non essential work.
I have a can of mixed aerosol paint from the highstreet auto shop and a can of Halfords lacquer. Also, I have primer in a aerosol or I can roll on 2K primer.
steveo3002
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id at least try and leave any primer overnight then sand and paint next day
if not do it on a boiling summers day and park it facing the sun to dry off the primer , so aerosol 2k laquer would make it a nicer job too if funds allow
if not do it on a boiling summers day and park it facing the sun to dry off the primer , so aerosol 2k laquer would make it a nicer job too if funds allow
norsa
old school painter
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Jack. please dont do as i have seen so many times when doing a 'local', mask off and spray the base coat, de mask then spray the clear. The aim is to blend one into the other without hard lines, but blending correctly i fear is a complete thread on its own and takes practice to get invisible repairs and includes flatting with G3 (before and after colour coats) and fade out thinners.
