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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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We used to cut 18" billet with a cold saw, it was a big cold saw though and you could count the revolutions as it went round.
Agroshield
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Please be specific on what you mean by a cold saw. There are two types. The first uses an HSS blade and spins slowly, with a worm gearbox between motor and arbor (https://www.thesawcentre.co.uk/products/machinery/metalworking-machinery/hss-cold-saws.html). Must be used with coolant (suds). The newer, more modern type is like an abrasive chop saw but spins slower and uses a carbide-tipped blade (https://www.dewalt.co.uk/product/dw872-gb/2200w-355mm-soft-start-tct-chop-saw).
As we keep telling you every time you ask, a railway track is not the same all the way through. The top part where the wheel has touched it will be a lot harder (work hardened) than the rest of it so no single blade will work at its most efficient throughout the entire cross section.
As we keep telling you every time you ask, a railway track is not the same all the way through. The top part where the wheel has touched it will be a lot harder (work hardened) than the rest of it so no single blade will work at its most efficient throughout the entire cross section.
timgunn1962
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If you are talking about a real cold saw with suds, I don't know.
If you are talking about a 14" 1500 RPM Carbide saw (I have the Evolution Raptor), I'd recommend looking for another method. I've not tried cutting rail, but I've cut Fork Lift Tines and it didn't go well. I think there were probably two issues at play: the thickness of the material being cut not allowing good chip clearance, and the material being tougher and/or harder than normal. I think the section was 45 x 95mm, so the thickness being cut was 45mm. I got half-a-dozen cuts out of a new blade before it lost too many teeth to be useful: it worked out over a tenner a cut. I still had a couple more cuts to do and used a 14" abrasive saw: no fun but a lot cheaper on a per-cut basis.
To me, the top of the rail seems likely to behave like the FLT tine.
If you are talking about a 14" 1500 RPM Carbide saw (I have the Evolution Raptor), I'd recommend looking for another method. I've not tried cutting rail, but I've cut Fork Lift Tines and it didn't go well. I think there were probably two issues at play: the thickness of the material being cut not allowing good chip clearance, and the material being tougher and/or harder than normal. I think the section was 45 x 95mm, so the thickness being cut was 45mm. I got half-a-dozen cuts out of a new blade before it lost too many teeth to be useful: it worked out over a tenner a cut. I still had a couple more cuts to do and used a 14" abrasive saw: no fun but a lot cheaper on a per-cut basis.
To me, the top of the rail seems likely to behave like the FLT tine.
