Buying a 3D printer

[Hood]

If it's just water and not under pressure make it from sugru. Hack mould with plasticine etc.

Yes just water and it would be minimal pressure, there would be some if for example a hose was squashed but nothing much at all.
Could easily make a proper mold up, will have to look up sugru and see what that is.

 

[Hood]

Ok just looked it up and it would probably do the job. I did say just water but it does have an additive which is an antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor but it is fine for the silicon hoses so should be fine for sugru I would think.

 

[Screwdriver]

Or you could make your own from silicone and cornstarch, cast in silicone. Another option is Amazing Goop. You will need Toluene to play with it for your purposes.

 

[ukracer]

Appreciate it but it would have to be flexible to be any use.
Will probably just make up some double ended delrin ones with O Rings. I do now remember why I had decided against doing it with O Rings, simply because they would not be attached to the hose and could get lost but I can probably devise a way to attach them to a hose or just make it big enough that it doesn't get lost

My mate has flexible filament he uses on his core XY.

 

[Onoff]

Ventilation is needed for some types of filament used . I'm soon going to cut a 2 inch hole in the plywood back of my Perspex fronted printer enclosure and stick a computer fan n a box on the outside fitting it with a nozzle to take some 40 mm pond water piping and venting it out of a hole I'll cut in the log cabin wall . Having the printer in an enclosure is useful as it stops cold air currents causing you printing problems as the temperature tends to become a stable heat . You can fit the enclosure with a smoke alarm and a thermal current breaker too . I've put led lights in my enclosure ...having it well lit is good for seeing everything ..the heat off the lights helps the temperature stay up ..
Most printing is best done in an ambient temp of 18 oC or slightly above .. they don't print well at a minus 11 oC air temperature & print even worse if it is in a cold draughty room .

Cut holes and ventilate with caution!

I thought we were being clever here, made up a nice looking Perspex sided enclosure with a 4" duct and pc fan in the back. Even went as far as printing a tapered duct with locking take off hose. All looks the mutts nuts.

Pretty sure it's actually detrimental to printing ABS and takes heat as well as fumes away. In the case of ABS the top layers are probably cooling too quick because of the heat removal.

(Printing PLA doesn't need a cooling fan to print well though it's likely a good idea to extract any plastic printing fumes rather than breathe them in).

Options for the ABS are to maybe reposition the fan, lower or to the side, even underneath perhaps. Control the fan speed maybe? Or to just vent with no fan. Potential issue also with backdraft up the duct from outside! The ideal for us is probably to site the printer's electronics externally so we don't have to worry about that all overheating and failing prematurely.

Then of course we can also look at bed adhesion though this Ultrabase on the Anycubic i3 Mega S shouldn't need any adhesion promoter! It's all just annoying faff!

Our ABS attempts have been abject failures to date and tbh dented mine certainly and maybe my lad's interest in 3D printing a bit. The knock on is I've laid off the CAD which I was just doing for the fun of it as it's good to see something you've drawn print well.

 

[Screwdriver]

Cut holes and ventilate with caution!

I thought we were being clever here, made up a nice looking Perspex sided enclosure with a 4" duct and pc fan in the back.

It does look very impressive. Perhaps it just needs dialling in. Can you control the fan speed? There is a lot of geeky discussion regarding fan speeds and cooling when digital printing. This enclosure is now an integral part of your printer system so maybe iy just needs to be better integrated.

If the whole point is to remove ABS fumes, have you tried PETG? Seems to fall between PLA and ABS allegedly giving "the best of both worlds". It's the only material I have used so while I have very little experience I am happy with the results I am getting.

 

[Onoff]

It does look very impressive. Perhaps it just needs dialling in. Can you control the fan speed? There is a lot of geeky discussion regarding fan speeds and cooling when digital printing. This enclosure is now an integral part of your printer system so maybe iy just needs to be better integrated.

If the whole point is to remove ABS fumes, have you tried PETG? Seems to fall between PLA and ABS allegedly giving "the best of both worlds". It's the only material I have used so while I have very little experience I am happy with the results I am getting.

No, no speed control on the fan. Ref integration my lad has dabbled with a Raspberry Pi fed by four DS18B20 temperature sensors to give real time temperature readings at various points within the enclosure.

Work in progress!

 

[ukracer]

Cut holes and ventilate with caution!

I thought we were being clever here, made up a nice looking Perspex sided enclosure with a 4" duct and pc fan in the back. Even went as far as printing a tapered duct with locking take off hose. All looks the mutts nuts.

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Pretty sure it's actually detrimental to printing ABS and takes heat as well as fumes away. In the case of ABS the top layers are probably cooling too quick because of the heat removal.

(Printing PLA doesn't need a cooling fan to print well though it's likely a good idea to extract any plastic printing fumes rather than breathe them in).

Options for the ABS are to maybe reposition the fan, lower or to the side, even underneath perhaps. Control the fan speed maybe? Or to just vent with no fan. Potential issue also with backdraft up the duct from outside! The ideal for us is probably to site the printer's electronics externally so we don't have to worry about that all overheating and failing prematurely.

Then of course we can also look at bed adhesion though this Ultrabase on the Anycubic i3 Mega S shouldn't need any adhesion promoter! It's all just annoying faff!

Our ABS attempts have been abject failures to date and tbh dented mine certainly and maybe my lad's interest in 3D printing a bit. The knock on is I've laid off the CAD which I was just doing for the fun of it as it's good to see something you've drawn print well.

something seems inherently wrong. What specifically was wrong with your ABS prints. Its hard for me to assist as I dont even use ABS on my ender 3 I use and ender 2 as it heats up the smaller bed quicker and is fitted with a bigger nozzle. If I were to say get an ender 3 and your troubles would be over I would do so but I dont know as they would. In fact despite the fact I have so many projects on the go here inc 2 CNC machines, limit stops for said machines, prototype jig system with 32 blocks to machine and fit , let alone the extrusion for them. lol. Dads car now needs a passenger sill and my Passat needs a wheel bearing and they only come as a complete assembly plus my workshop needs sorting to allow the overflow stuff to go back in and the Large hydraulic press needs welding etc etc etc ............I would most likely have looked at getting an Ender 3 running using ABS pro. But space , cost and time not to mention wrath of the wife, just does not allow it currently! Perhaps when I finish restoring these Anet A8's I have here to print new parts for and the T shirts I keep trying to print it will be an option.

in youir situation I would get a piece of glass (preferably mirror glass) to fit the any cubic. If you let me know the Anycubic bed size I will look into it! I would then fit the correct nozzle size and use the profile settings I sent you (can re send). I will post you down the Pure ABS I have sitting here in an envelope ready for you (I keep meaning to ask for you to PM your address) and go from there.
As for fumes...well I am yet to be convinced its the extraction causing you problems BUT if it is just leave the fan off. Run it for 5 mins or so after printing to evacuate anything left in there but most fumes will find their way through the extraction without the fan running.

Dont give up your talents would be a sad loss.

 

[Onoff]

On the subject of PETG then Box are doing a tenner off kilo reels of Steadytech PETG:

https://www.box.co.uk/steadytech-petg-filament

Tempted to buy a reel just to have a go.

Saying that...the Steadytech PLA I had, two out of 3 reels kept snapping.

 

[ukracer]

On the subject of PETG then Box are doing a tenner off kilo reels of Steadytech PETG:

https://www.box.co.uk/steadytech-petg-filament

Tempted to buy a reel just to have a go.

Saying that...the Steadytech PLA I had, two out of 3 reels kept snapping.

I like steady tech...lol never used their PLA as it's never been cheap enough.

 

[Onoff]

What specifically was wrong with your ABS prints.

Warping. Layers look (at least to me), tight enough:

in youir situation I would get a piece of glass (preferably mirror glass) to fit the any cubic.

I've asked a local glass place for a price for a bit.

 

[brewdexta]

Damn, just when I thought I had bought enough accessories for the printer https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-blue-violet-light

 

[DAPPH]

Cut holes and ventilate with caution!

I thought we were being clever here, made up a nice looking Perspex sided enclosure with a 4" duct and pc fan in the back. Even went as far as printing a tapered duct with locking take off hose. All looks the mutts nuts.

View attachment 245674

View attachment 245676

View attachment 245675
Pretty sure it's actually detrimental to printing ABS and takes heat as well as fumes away. In the case of ABS the top layers are probably cooling too quick because of the heat removal.

(Printing PLA doesn't need a cooling fan to print well though it's likely a good idea to extract any plastic printing fumes rather than breathe them in).

Options for the ABS are to maybe reposition the fan, lower or to the side, even underneath perhaps. Control the fan speed maybe? Or to just vent with no fan. Potential issue also with backdraft up the duct from outside! The ideal for us is probably to site the printer's electronics externally so we don't have to worry about that all overheating and failing prematurely.

Then of course we can also look at bed adhesion though this Ultrabase on the Anycubic i3 Mega S shouldn't need any adhesion promoter! It's all just annoying faff!

Our ABS attempts have been abject failures to date and tbh dented mine certainly and maybe my lad's interest in 3D printing a bit. The knock on is I've laid off the CAD which I was just doing for the fun of it as it's good to see something you've drawn print well.

Using a small computer fan would hardly move any air , but forewarned is forearmed . I can put a simple slider over an air inlet hole in the external box housing the fan to adjust the pull of air out .

 

[Onoff]

Using a small computer fan would hardly move any air , but forewarned is forearmed . I can put a simple slider over an air inlet hole in the external box housing th fan to adjust the pull of air out .

120mm fan here I think. I quite fancied a 3D printed, iris type damper to control the airflow...

 

[Screwdriver]

Warping. Layers look (at least to me), tight enough:

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I've asked a local glass place for a price for a bit.

That does look like rapid cooling leading to warping. ABS is "known" for it. I think your on the right lines, reducing extractor fan to the bare minimum will definitely help.

 

[daedalusminos]

Warping. Layers look (at least to me), tight enough:

What bed surface, adhesion promoter are you using?

 

[ukracer]

What bed surface, adhesion promoter are you using?

I think thats the issue. @Onoff does not have a glass bed yet! Once he gets a glass bed I can send him down some Pure white ABS to mix a slurry as we use this ABS pro from steady tech with great results. SO much so that John who put me onto it is having to try and find an alternative because the BOX has only had yellow in for the last few months and even that seems to have gone now. We just cant find it anywhere else.

 

[indy4x]

In comparison my Anet a8 was ok to start with and went down hill when i started to tinker with it. Its currently awaiting a rebuild with a metal frame.

There you go, if it ain't broke leave it alone

 

[garethp]

There you go, if it ain't broke leave it alone

Whats the fun with that?

It started with improving the linear bearings on the table as the ones supplied were rough, the new ones were nice and smooth but they would bind on the rails as the plywood frame wasnt square and I couldn't get it square.

The biggest problem with mine was the frame was thin plywood - too flexible compared to the more usual and thicker acrylic.

Made the decision to rebuild it using alloy box section to convert it to an AM8, lockdown and lack of funds knackered that for months..

 

[Onoff]

That does look like rapid cooling leading to warping. ABS is "known" for it. I think your on the right lines, reducing extractor fan to the bare minimum will definitely help.

Yes, slowing the fan will limit the warm air "lost" but the electronics will get hotter.

What bed surface, adhesion promoter are you using?

Special dimpled base. On the basis the Anycubic Ultrabase is sold as not needing any adhesion promotor.