brightspark
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and it isnt use it flat to grind surfaces
the spindle and locking ring protrude out further than the depressed disks 
- Thread starter steve.h
- Start date
the spindle and locking ring protrude out further than the depressed disks 
chrismac
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You are correct where you have the straight edge, but you have to agree that if you were to move the straight edge approximately 40mm towards the camera there is a flat surface on the disc from the edge of the nut to the outer edge of the disc, this would be the area I would use to flatten out something, only once is it reasonably close first, this then gives you a distinct change in the grinding pattern and you can see the high parts coming into the lower parts of a surface.
But looking at that picture it would not really be feasible unless it was done in two halfs.
Chris
But looking at that picture it would not really be feasible unless it was done in two halfs.
Chris
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A friend of mine Bob, sadly deceased started work at Beckton gasworks apprenticed to a Blacksmith, if he missed the work & dented the anvil the smith who was a gigantic man would clout him round the head with a huge paw & then make him file the anvil flat again.
The smith used to drink water from the quenching trough with a tin mug saying "Drink iron water boy, its good for you".
Bob never forgetting the clumps round the head p****d in the quenching trough as often as possible.
The smith used to drink water from the quenching trough with a tin mug saying "Drink iron water boy, its good for you".
Bob never forgetting the clumps round the head p****d in the quenching trough as often as possible.
steve.h
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Well I started using the belt sander after I had "modified" it so that the sparks are able to get out without melting the sander. I concentrated on the front part of the anvil after the horn and step, and then the last belt I had snapped !! Aaaaggggghhhh, Why do I buy cheap belts.
Well the section I did manage to get done now looks great, really good, happy as larry, straight away I found it better, it might of been me imagining it but it really did seem easier to work on.
I will get some more belts next time I am in town, when itsdone I will post a pic. Reading what some people have said about theirs and seeing a few videos on thetube my anvil probably wasnt that bad, but if your not happy with somethingit will niggle at you until you sort it.
Well the section I did manage to get done now looks great, really good, happy as larry, straight away I found it better, it might of been me imagining it but it really did seem easier to work on.
I will get some more belts next time I am in town, when itsdone I will post a pic. Reading what some people have said about theirs and seeing a few videos on thetube my anvil probably wasnt that bad, but if your not happy with somethingit will niggle at you until you sort it.
blacksmithstris
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- 263
Hi Steve,
I've heard of people having their anvil faces milled flat, there is a guy in the states who does it with a 'flycutting' tool, I've seen the pics and it looks pretty effective. I think it depends on the anvil though- also apparently you need to mill the bottom flat first as often the bottoms are not level. I couldn't say too much more about it as I don't know much about milling myself, no doubt there will be members here who will be experts and could advise on whether that is a viable option, but obviously if you are short of cash it wouldn't be a cheap thing to do, I should guess.
I've got an old pig of an anvil, was quite marred and dished, and rusty. I've just used a grinder with a course flap disc, then finished with fine flap disc, to give a corner of it a sharp edge and also to flatten a section about 100mm across the face which is about 180mm across. the rest of it I just polished up really, and I use that as it is. If you're working small stock you shouldn't need to have a huge flat surface to work on, although, I agree, it would be nice! I since obtained a smaller very nicely faced anvil so I've got a small flat surface on that, I can finish stuff with if needs be, but really, the small surface on the bigger one suffices.
The suggestion of using engineers blue is a great one, though!! Perhaps one day if I've got time to kill I will try that.
My stuff gets rusty in my workshop too, I live near the sea and my workshop is not insulated and is walled with corrugated sheet, so it gets condensation in it. I leave my apron over my bigger anvil and an oily cloth over my smaller one. Tools, tongs, formers etc I don't use so often I dip with oil occasionally.
I've heard of people having their anvil faces milled flat, there is a guy in the states who does it with a 'flycutting' tool, I've seen the pics and it looks pretty effective. I think it depends on the anvil though- also apparently you need to mill the bottom flat first as often the bottoms are not level. I couldn't say too much more about it as I don't know much about milling myself, no doubt there will be members here who will be experts and could advise on whether that is a viable option, but obviously if you are short of cash it wouldn't be a cheap thing to do, I should guess.
I've got an old pig of an anvil, was quite marred and dished, and rusty. I've just used a grinder with a course flap disc, then finished with fine flap disc, to give a corner of it a sharp edge and also to flatten a section about 100mm across the face which is about 180mm across. the rest of it I just polished up really, and I use that as it is. If you're working small stock you shouldn't need to have a huge flat surface to work on, although, I agree, it would be nice! I since obtained a smaller very nicely faced anvil so I've got a small flat surface on that, I can finish stuff with if needs be, but really, the small surface on the bigger one suffices.
The suggestion of using engineers blue is a great one, though!! Perhaps one day if I've got time to kill I will try that.
My stuff gets rusty in my workshop too, I live near the sea and my workshop is not insulated and is walled with corrugated sheet, so it gets condensation in it. I leave my apron over my bigger anvil and an oily cloth over my smaller one. Tools, tongs, formers etc I don't use so often I dip with oil occasionally.
steve.h
Fire Starter,,,,
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thanks for the reply blacksmithstris, I think you have summed it up for me, I will continue to cover the anvil with old cloth, it is only when I forget to cover it that it goes rusty. I am quite pleased with the result of using the belt sander before the belt gave up, maybe a couple of 40 grit belts will do the job, I do now have about 5 inches of nice flat face, it really did seem to be easier to work on, I will just try and work the rest bit by bit when I have time, I dont want to upset the neighbours too much with hours on end of noisey power tools.
I did make a candle holder yesterday, I did post it on another thread, I was really happy with it, other than a few twisted bar bottle openers it is the first non tool thing I have made, I would like to sell them, I would like to make it a part time job (I can only manage a few hours at a time as I have heart failure and get tired quickly). I would love to live down on the coast, we live in swindon, wilts, we tend to drive down to sandbanks with the kids and dog quite a lot, I love it there. I am trying to convice the Mrs to move to the coast, we have an association house so need to look for an exchange. Maybe one day it will happen.
I did make a candle holder yesterday, I did post it on another thread, I was really happy with it, other than a few twisted bar bottle openers it is the first non tool thing I have made, I would like to sell them, I would like to make it a part time job (I can only manage a few hours at a time as I have heart failure and get tired quickly). I would love to live down on the coast, we live in swindon, wilts, we tend to drive down to sandbanks with the kids and dog quite a lot, I love it there. I am trying to convice the Mrs to move to the coast, we have an association house so need to look for an exchange. Maybe one day it will happen.
blacksmithstris
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Steve,
I love living near the coast, despite the rust! My partner had a council flat in London and spent 4 years on homeswappers but finally did get a swap to the south coast, so don't give up, just have to wait for the right one! Can't say you'll get a swap to Sandbanks though!!
Good luck with it!
I love living near the coast, despite the rust! My partner had a council flat in London and spent 4 years on homeswappers but finally did get a swap to the south coast, so don't give up, just have to wait for the right one! Can't say you'll get a swap to Sandbanks though!!
Good luck with it!
Chickenjohn
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Simmilar to Blacksmiths tris, how about taking your anvil (if you can lift it!) to and engine reconditioners. They could use the same machine/ mill they use to skim the top surface of engine blocks to skim your anvil to within 1 thou....
Just an idea, would probably not be too expensive.
Just an idea, would probably not be too expensive.
a vertical mill would be the best ,but ....guys he cant lift it & cant afford it! a good way with an angle grinder is to work @ a small area @ a time where u have a big high spot use the grinder @ a steep angle to remove the bulk material then lighter precision grinding @ a shallow angle.however 1 of my anvils is dished & i find it useful for straightening by hammering into the low spot.
